I know how to glass but never have done a box other than a square. If anyone has any custom FG box links please post them or IM me.

Thanks
CRX Forum

 

I'm really confused...what do you need help on?

If you know how to glass, then where's the problem? I'm not trying to be a dick, I just don't see the problem...

 

My first post on H-T!!!

You can check http://www.selectproducts.com, they sell "how-to" videos, and they have one just about fiberglass eclosures/installs.

 

http://www.sounddomain.com/mem...age=5 this page here will have alot o info that you are looking for. scroll down an you'll see a section bout fiberglass, enclosure's etc etc. Hope that helps.

 

I think hes saying he cant contour and do dips and hills for that show look...

 

I can understand. I glassed my tire well enclosure. Thank god the actually fiber glass part is hidden cuz it is ugly... Not bad for my first try but I couldn't imagine taking the time to get good enough to do interior pieces.

Found the link

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=480850

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civiksiracer1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think hes saying he cant contour and do dips and hills for that show look...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is exactly what I want to know. Simple box shapes are easy. I dont understand how to to the curves and points and stuff.

CRX Forum

 

From what I read most guys use a tin foil as a release agent in the area they wanna do. They then spray glue fleece or some stretchy material to the area. Then they apply resin. Once you get your basic shape you're supposed to build it up with some layers of fiberglass mat. Then you're supposed to sand it and use body filler to make it smooth.

Oh and for those fiberglass bezels they take mdf and make mounting rings for the subs. Then the mount the rings to dowels and put them in the box where they want them. Then they stretch fleece over it and apply resin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1BlackHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I read most guys use a tin foil as a release agent in the area they wanna do. They then spray glue fleece or some stretchy material to the area. Then they apply resin. Once you get your basic shape you're supposed to build it up with some layers of fiberglass mat. Then you're supposed to sand it and use body filler to make it smooth.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is one way of doing it, but it certainly isn't the most popular way....If you are using a part of the body as a mold, you will never see it, therefore there is no reason to have to sand, etc. Also, fleece adds absolutely NO strength to a piece. It gets hard, but is brittle, and is not strong at all.

You can use the tin foil routine. I prefer masking tape and some PVA on top of that. Just personal preference, although I have use the foil with good success.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and for those fiberglass bezels they take mdf and make mounting rings for the subs. Then the mount the rings to dowels and put them in the box where they want them. Then they stretch fleece over it and apply resin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now we are getting there....they are bezels if you are trimming out amps and the such, but if it's the actual spot the subs are mounted to, they are called baffles. Again, plenty of ways to do this, but the easiest is to build a frame, then mount rings to the frame. How you build the rings depends on how you want the subs mounted....again plenty of ways.

You can get very creative with the frame, and even use multiple plugs and parts to get very intricate shapes without lots of filler. You want the initial stretch of glass to be as accurate as possible (no wrinkles allowed) to minimize filler and sanding.

Remember, if you can make it out of MDF, do so. Flat fiberglass is really weak. Also, use these frames to brace your box. And where possible integrate bracing if there are flat sections of glass when creating a mold. I usually tape thick pieces of dowel to the flat areas if I must glass over them. I cover the dowell in foil. Now I have created a large curved ridge where there used to be just flat sections. This will make your box significantly stronger.

My recomendation is to make sure that you can work on the back side of the baffle easily. Apply the additional fiberglass (after you give the fleece 24 hours to cure) to the back side. Again, let these first few layers dry in the car....that will avoid warping. This will save you HOURS of sanding.

The resin coated fleece when dry is a relatively uniform surface, while fiberglass simply is not. You can sand the fleece directly (make sure you get resin all the way through) and apply filler directly.

Also, make sure that you stretch the fleece as tightly as humanly possible, and as uniform as possible. You want the whole part to have the same tension. Also, make sure that your frame is strong enough to support the stretch and the additional shrinkage that will occur when you let the resin cure.

If you really want tips on how to create glass parts, go to the Alpine site. Their writeups on the Civic Si and RSX demo cars are among the most thorough that you will find on the net, and will give you tons of ideas on how to create cool shapes. It should get the creative juices flowing.

I personally don't like their technique of grinding away tons of dynaglas (which is a SWEET product BTW) but it works for them. Mix and match techniques to get the look you want.

Remember glassing is 80% prep, and 20% actual labor. If you prep properly, the labor should be easy...if the labor is difficult, you didn't prep well enough...Hope that helps a bit more.