Hey all, I soon will be boosting my 90 b18c hatch. I have heard that there is usually some front x-member problems, clearance wise. Wondering what your experience was and how you worked it out. Would you advise going with a jimfab or z10 front x-member? Or could I hack at my stock piece safely? I am running place mounts and will be running a drag manifold with a t3/t4. Spank you very much in advance

 

i am helping my friend boost his EF and we already have most of the parts. stock xmember has already been replaced with a jimfab unit. we do not foresee any dp/clearance problems.

 

great, thanks for the info, sounds like the jimfab is a very popular piece

 

Upgrade to the JimFab!

It will save you soooo many headachs and allow for a bigger DP.

 

Go jimfab, not even a question.

 

Here's the free solution:


If you've got the money, get a Jimfab.

 

Pics comparing jimfab to stock???

Price on jimfab???

 

I've got a b16a with the JimFab's... With the Inline promanifold, the DP either had to be cheated to fit a true 3", or you have to get some MAJORLY tight radius bends... I used a 3" with a 3" radius donut from road race engineering to clear on my car... It still sucked. I'm also fabbing in a v-band connector for the bottom half of the downpipe to make it easier to remove if/when I need to.

MAJOR headaches.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a b16a with the JimFab's... With the Inline promanifold, the DP either had to be cheated to fit a true 3", or you have to get some MAJORLY tight radius bends... I used a 3" with a 3" radius donut from road race engineering to clear on my car... It still sucked. I'm also fabbing in a v-band connector for the bottom half of the downpipe to make it easier to remove if/when I need to.

MAJOR headaches. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ill vouch for that. I was able to fab up the downpipe with the VBAND right on the flange. It is tight, and the return line is a headache allso. Its rediculous when you have to fabricate a downpipe around a drian line I allso have a t3 (presicion sc32) and inline pro manifold and jimfab bars, its still tight. I forgot to mention its full 3" DP. I can safely say that this will be my last turbo EF, first and last. Im getting a 99 up hatch next. Its just crazy the room they have, evan with A/C. its not fair!!!!


Rob

 

My solution was to use ye ol hammer at first as well, but then I recently picked up an placeracing front x-member from After Hourz Racing. For $170 shipped you can't beat that. I have **** loads of clearance now. And no I don't have any problems with it breaking, it's a new design from the old one that was prone to cracking.

 

A rough pic of mine...

2.5" -3"

 

One i made my self, cant beat the space of a custom one.

 

I have the same problem with my DA...I wish someone made one that retained the stock traction bars. PlaceRacing makes one but I think you have to remove them. I might just have to use the hammer

-Ryan

 

such as this one on my girlfriends car. 1990 integra w/ b16.
no more wheel hop and tons of room, so much infact that i've thought about turboing it several times when my car isn't running. Front mounts help out a ton. on one of my friends cars we didn't even use a rear mount and it was stiff!



p.s. no flaming the $50 headers( i added a 2.5" collector so it was a noticable improvement )

 

the place racing cross member hangs a little low.. the tow hooks on it is the lowest part that hits everything, and im only lowered about 1.5" at the lowest. i personally like the jimfab units.. those things are badass.

 

this is an EF thread but..
is there one out yet for the DA?

 

on z10's web site it states "coming soon" for 90-93 tegs. probably within a month or so they'll be available. people on here should know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RenoRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

looks like you're gonna have some major oil return line problems (from the angle of the pic atleast).

 

I'm not running that manifold, just test fitting it all. The oil return port on the turbo itself sat about 2" above the barb on the oil pan. not bad at all.

i see what you mean though, the manifold looks really long like some headers from this straight down view.

it totally looks like the turbo is lower than the crossmember and the piping curves perfectly around the crossmember. not true though.



Modified by RenoRacing at 9:50 PM 10/21/2003

 

pooptooth- i agree on the jimfab and you know this. and hey since im givin up the kit, i feel you should cop that or the place unit. anything is better than hackin on the stock member. btw, what kind of name is pooptooth? german?

 

does the jimfab let you run the eg radiator??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> btw, what kind of name is pooptooth? german?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ACTUALLY its austrian...

"ha, well than... goodday mate!, lets put another shrimp on the barbie..."

"LETS NOT"

btw-thanks for ALL the info fellas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RenoRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on z10's web site it states "coming soon" for 90-93 tegs. probably within a month or so they'll be available. people on here should know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Z10 had that on there ever since they started selling the kits (in 99' or so).
I've emailed them several times about it. They only replied once or twice (back in 01'). I still think there is a demand for 90-93 tegs

 

do you have pics of what you fabbed up for the ends of the crossmember? i like the homemade unit.

 

the homemade piece is sick, so is the jimfab and the place racing. So many desicions to make... thanks again. H-T is the truth