I am racing my modified ITR here in Europe , I am getting more competition of the new CTR 200hp (the modified ones go up to 250 HP!!) K20A engine.
Now during this winter I want to upgrade my 1.8 engine to a 2.0L , now I would like to know what would be the best and most reliable way to do this. Resleve my engine , stroker kit ? , or buy a DART block with 84.5 mm bore.
Please note that we are running 4 hours races and rev it between 6K-9.5K during this 4 hours. Please also let me know wich company is the best in resleving , best for a stroker kit or cheapest DART block.
I would like to buy a complete race ready 2.0 l shortblock for my ITR , is there any one out there that sells this , so I only have to swap my parts from my ITR engine to this new block. Should I use bigger injectors ?My set up now is : Skunk2 stage II cams , 70MM TB + Edlebrock ITM , light flywheel , Mugen ECU , Apexi VAFC , shorter 4&5th gears. Mugen oilpan etc.......
Please note that over here in Europe there is nearly nothing available to upgrade your engine. All the parts I need to order in the US . So if there are any good deals out there just let me know. I posting this forum , because I've experianced that HONDA-TECH.COM is very helpful.

LOOKING FORWARD RECEIVING INTERESTING RELPIES , Thanks

Kindest regards , Douglas

 

I would just resleeve your own block, no point in dishing out the money for a Dart block unless you have too much money. A block sleeved by any of the more experienced companies will take 9.5rpm no problem at all. Naturally aspired you would really have to try to hurt the block, your head will go out way before the block.

 

sell your block and buy a k24 motor...call it a day...

 

Is there a limit on engine displacement in your race class?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acydphryck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sell your block and buy a k24 motor...call it a day... </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Hi ,

The limit in our race class is 2.0 liter

Thanks

Douglas

 

IMO

A stroker kit in your case of being a road racer would not be ideal. With an increased stroke most engine builders tend to tell you to bring down your red line because of a lower rod stroke ratio. The effects of a lower RS is greater cyl wall wear (very much so at 9.5k rpms), and slower pistons speeds, to really make full benifit out of your set up you might have to rethink a couple breathing related things. Motors with diffrent RS ratios tend to like diffrent cam profiles and ports...ect...

long story short, i always prefer boring over stroking to increase displacement. The only time i like a "stroker" motor is when a deck plate is applied along with custom sized rods to counteract the loss of rod stroke ratio.

I would sleeve your ITR block, and go 84.5mm (That would make it a true 2.0 litre) with mabye some CP pistons and stronger light weight rods of some sort.

-sander

 

I would go with what "sander" said.
If done right, a 2L B18C should put down 235+hp & 160+ft/lbs torque to the wheels.
You'll give them a run for their money!!!

 

HI,

I recently bought teh B18C1 85mm AEBS resleved block taht was for sale oh HT. If you mahe a search on 85mm you'll see some pics of the block and flywheel & clutch.
I even got a better price.
I have a B16A head to go with it (head must be p&p)

I'll get the block next week .

 

dude why dont you just use your itr head??!!

 

I will leave my ITR engine complete , and since the B16A head is the same as an ITR head. I am having my B16A hear beeing P&P by a very well know tuner here in Belgium. He will assemble the engine , Ill drop it in , brake the engine in for a few hundered miles and bring it back to him to put on his dyno. He recently bought all the stuff of the F-1 tean "asiatec" , he is using this stuf to tune his engines. So I thing I'll be good with him.
My goal is 250-260 FHP or 220 WHP ?

 

i would go with sleeving. i would use benson performance in cal. at least for the sleeving and maybe for the complete lower end assemble. let him blueprint and balance everything for you. i would also think about running different cams some toda c jun3 or ef1 m24's best luck on your project.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
long story short, i always prefer boring over stroking to increase displacement. The only time i like a "stroker" motor is when a deck plate is applied along with custom sized rods to counteract the loss of rod stroke ratio. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I like the idea of a relatively stock size bore, but with "stroker" setup + deckplate.

Link?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I like the idea of a relatively stock size bore, but with "stroker" setup + deckplate.

Link?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, thats possible as well, although most people start increasing displacement with bore, then progress to stroke and then a few crazy people here have deck plates and big bore or just go all out and get a tall 2.0 (or bigger bore) dart block.

Im not quite sure what you mean about a link?

-sander

 

along with the boring to 2.0 adding bigger cams would compliment it right?

 

Don't forget to bump the compression to go with the larger skunk2 stage 2 cams. Aim for about a 11.6:1 compression with those cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would just resleeve your own block, no point in dishing out the money for a Dart block unless you have too much money. </TD></TR></TABLE>

imho it will turn out not too much more to go dart by the time you pay to have your block machined and sleaved and resurfaced and blah blah blah. you will be up at the thousand dollar mark if not more.you may as well pay 1800 what ever in internals and sell your stock block minus crank

 

I agree with integra6650. I'm just going through this whole process right now.

 

cp pistons? why not go with the high compression soft head endyn?

if you lower your r/s ratio you will get a broader torque curve, which would allow you to run slightly taller gears, giving you more top end speed for the straight.

but more than anything, why dont you spend some money in your transmission? a new engine is a waste of money. you can get more power out of your transmission, dollar for dollar, than you can youre engine. your money would be better spent on a quaife 5 speed gearkit with the first 3 gears straight cut, this will give you a 5% power increase across the board. then get an ATB diff also. this will work great with the lightened flywheel.

if you want to keep the same engine, but extract more power from it, go with a dry sump oil system. a 5 stage system will free up 20+ hp.

got the new block, put h-beam rods in because they are the most aerodynamic. have the machinist fab up 3 peices of aluminum that will divide your bottom end into 4 seperate sections, this will also help with bottom end aerodynamics. have the cylinder walls mirror finished, and have pistons custom made for a 2 ring setup.
headwork-get the head flowbenched along with some custom ground cams that will take advantage of your heads flow, making it much more efficient.
block the coolant from entering your IM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by douglas_be &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He will assemble the engine , Ill drop it in , brake the engine in for a few hundered miles and bring it back to him to put on his dyno. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No! Break it in on the dyno.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eyeamvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't forget to bump the compression to go with the larger skunk2 stage 2 cams. Aim for about a 11.6:1 compression with those cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

at LEAST 11.6:1. skunk2 stage 2 cams ideally like 12:1