Hey guys, last night driving home I seemed to loose all my gears. It's a fifth gen and when the car is on I cant shift into any gear even if the clutch is all the way in.
When the car is turned off, I can get into all the gears easily................
Any Idea what the problem might be, I did a search already btw.............. thnx

 

bad clutch or need to bleed your clutch system.
unlikely you ruined all your synchros at once.

 

same thing happened to my civic. is the clutch loose? time for a new clutch if bleeding it doesn't work.

 

did you check your clutch fluid? this exact same thing happened to me a month ago, when i was gettin ready to leave for school in the morning. we were all lookin at the cables and crap to see if anything was messed up. then i checked the clutch fluid, and for some reason there was no fluid. i put some in, and i was on my way

 

Probably a spring popped on your clutch.. Time for a new clutch.. when your car is on.. does it feel all jittery when u try 'n put it into gear?

 

You just need to add some brake fluid to the clutch slave and bleed it. Its fine.

 

no its not jittery, when the car is on it like there is something blocking me from shifting into any gear. But when its turned off shifting is smooth as normal

 

Do what I said and you'll be good to go.

 

What does clutch bleeding involve............................??
Sorry im new to this,

 

Try just adding some brake fluid to the clutch slave cylinder and pumping the clutch a few times with the car off.

The slave cylinder is a small canister looking thing with a grey lid/cap on it in the back of your engine bay. Its right near a larger looking version canister which is for the brakes.

 

Here, this pic shows the slave cylinder reservoir pretty well. Up in the top right in the pic you see both reserviors with gray lids, its the smaller one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try just adding some brake fluid to the clutch slave cylinder and pumping the clutch a few times with the car off.

The slave cylinder is a small canister looking thing with a grey lid/cap on it in the back of your engine bay. Its right near a larger looking version canister which is for the brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought the canister with the grey lid was the clutch master cylinder and the small piece on the tranny facing the radiator was the clutch slave cylinder?

 

the small piece facing the radiator is where you bleed the system at....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caLiH22A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought the canister with the grey lid was the clutch master cylinder and the small piece on the tranny facing the radiator was the clutch slave cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct. The slave cylinder most likely goes out before the master does.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elkins911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the small piece facing the radiator is where you bleed the system at....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where would this small piece be ???

 

did you read all of the posts? it's on the tranny facing the radiator.

 

same thing happened to me, except I lost reverse first. Then 50 miles later, 1st, 2nd, and 5th. Driving 40 miles home w/3rd and 4th sucks ***. 10k miles on an 01 accord tranny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try just adding some brake fluid to the clutch slave cylinder and pumping the clutch a few times with the car off.

The slave cylinder is a small canister looking thing with a grey lid/cap on it in the back of your engine bay. Its right near a larger looking version canister which is for the brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok.........so I searched and read all the posts on bleeding the clutch. Theres about 10 different ways people say your should do it, its mostly all the ITR guys. So has anyone actually done this on a 5th gen with no problems, and if so could you give me step by step instructions ???

Just to clarify.......masterCC&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; small grey cap
slave CC &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; on trany, facing radiator

Thanks in advance

 

Everyone had a basic idea of what they are doing.the bleeder nipple (slave cylinder) will be located on the tranny facing the radiator, you should see a hydraulic line on the tranny and then the bleeder nipple it is hard to miss. There are a couple of ways to bleed the clutch, You can use a vacuum bleeder tool (available at your local auto parts store), attach the vaccum bleeder tool to the bleeder nipple you can put some putty or a piece of gum (so you do not get airbubbles from outside air) around the tube at the bleeder valve to form an airtight seal, pump the vacuum tool to build pressure and then turn the bleeder valve 1/8-1/4 turn, you will see bubbles come out, top off the clutch master cylinder and repeat until pressure is built up and you can engage the clutch, and it feels smooth. Second method, pump the clutch pedal about three or four times and open the bleeder valve 1/8-1/4 a turn, and repeat until the clutch is able to engage and feels smooth. Now once you have pressure built up test drive it a small distance to ensure everything feels as it should and there are no air bubbles, if there are still airbubbles the clutch pedal will feel spongy and have a sloppy engagement feel, you will be able to tell if airbubbles are still in the hydraulic lines. Always remember to keep the clutch master cylinder topped off otherwise you introduce more air into the system.

 

I have the same problem, did you figure out the culprit?

 

not yet, Im gonna bleed it thought in like 30 min and see what happens

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gerhard_001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone had a basic idea of what they are doing.the bleeder nipple (slave cylinder) will be located on the tranny facing the radiator, you should see a hydraulic line on the tranny and then the bleeder nipple it is hard to miss. There are a couple of ways to bleed the clutch, You can use a vacuum bleeder tool (available at your local auto parts store), attach the vaccum bleeder tool to the bleeder nipple you can put some putty or a piece of gum (so you do not get airbubbles from outside air) around the tube at the bleeder valve to form an airtight seal, pump the vacuum tool to build pressure and then turn the bleeder valve 1/8-1/4 turn, you will see bubbles come out, top off the clutch master cylinder and repeat until pressure is built up and you can engage the clutch, and it feels smooth. Second method, pump the clutch pedal about three or four times and open the bleeder valve 1/8-1/4 a turn, and repeat until the clutch is able to engage and feels smooth. Now once you have pressure built up test drive it a small distance to ensure everything feels as it should and there are no air bubbles, if there are still airbubbles the clutch pedal will feel spongy and have a sloppy engagement feel, you will be able to tell if airbubbles are still in the hydraulic lines. Always remember to keep the clutch master cylinder topped off otherwise you introduce more air into the system. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Will this be similar on a 96 accord EX

 

yes

 

Sup everyone. I have this problem too. I cant engage nor disengage into any gears while the car is on. But when the car is off its prefectly fine. So then i started the car in 1st gear with the clutch down and moved it and everything seemed fine but still no luck getting out of the gear. I already bled the clutch and did the tranny fluid. The clutch pedal feels fine also. Any solutions? Its on a 98 itr.

 

the small reservoir on the right is the master cylinder, its connected to the clutch pedal.

slave cylinder is near transmission, the bleeder screw is facing the front of the car.

the way i bled the system was to.....open bleeder screw &gt; push clutch in &gt; close bleeder screw &gt; pull clutch up and repeat until there is only fluid coming out of the bleeder screw and clutch pedal has normal resistance when depressed with the bleeder screw closed

fill the master cylinder reservoir before it runs out, or more air will get into the system and youll be back to where you started

hope this helps...some of the explanations above were wrong and/or confusing