I am thinking of building the motor/tranny up over the winter, and thought that I better figure out what all I need to do so that I have plenty of time to get it done. I want to do everything to the motor at once, and here is the list I have come up with:

Tranny
-JDM final drive or ATS final drive- which application is better for what?
-Toda Clutch/Flywheel Combo
-Mugen 2-Way LSD

Engine
-Toda Spec B cams
-Toda Cam Gears
-Toda Valve Springs
-ECU -? To be determined
- Head work -Porting-Polishing-Blueprinting- What is a good place, and what all would be beneficial?
-retainers ?
-Pistons/Rods ?
-Headgasket ?

I currently have the JDM Mugen full exhaust system, and will eventually get the HiTech system, but that will be towards the end of the transformation. As far as the intake goes, I will either go with the Mugen one, or the Icebox.

My intention with the car is to prep it for road racing, but I would like to run around a 13.4 in the quarter. It is going to be a daily driver also. I already have the suspension figured out, but need help with the HP issues. I have never built up a motor so I am new at this and have a lot of questions.

So, for those that are more expereinced with this, please share your thoughts. Thanks

 

Pistons; get Toda ones..the CTR might garner same c/r; but they r ent forged.
Rods: Just get urs shot peened
Headgasket: U dont need one, cuz ur gettin higher compression pistons
Headwork: 3 angle valve job. Extrude Hone the intake manifold, port and polish head.
Retainers: Yes, Ti Retainers would be good.
ECU: For n/a, get the Apexi Power FC
Valvetrain: Go with same make as cams; in ur case Toda
Cams: Toda Spec B's are good..but im hardcore, so i reccommend Spec C's
Injectors: 330cc for spec b's, 440cc for spec c's
LSD: Just keep the Type R lsd. its more quieter then the Mugen, Kaaz, etc. better for street driving
Clutch/Flywheel: There was a good post about the ATS combo, which is carbon..very light apparently.
Final Drive: Just go with ATS..u'll get raped for gas milage if u get the ATS

 

did u mean JDM or ATS will rape u??

 

What you need above and beyond everything else is lotsa $$$

 

The above setup, Engine wise, is the same thing I will be running So you can see my dyno charts in two weeks time as I am planning on dropping the engine in next week. For the Tranny I have a New JDM ITR Tranny with 4.785 FD and JDM Gearing and Stock LSD
Intake is ARC
Header is Spoon 4-2-1
Exhaust will be a 65mm Cat back with Spoon N1

 

Hey white dragon are you gonna sell your JDM Mugen exhaust system???


Let me know

 

I'd say just buy nab20c5's setup and you're all set...

imho:

Tranny
-as close as 5.0 as you can get... ats is $, jdm is decent
-Toda Clutch/Flywheel Combo
-Mugen 2-Way LSD? Why? Is the stock one holding you back?

Engine
-Toda Spec B cams - or C's maybe?
-Toda Cam Gears
-Toda Valve Springs
-ECU - Hondata or Power FC...
- Head work - Endyne or Portflow
-retainers - Ti by either portflow or Ferrea
-Pistons/Rods - 12.5:1 or 13:1 endyne rollerwaves, and eagle or crower rods. Balance Crank too!
-Headgasket - don't need one if you are doing pistons. Something that will keep it together, though; not to change compression...

Maybe bigger injectors? And bosch/ endyne fuel pump and something for fpr...

 

A couple of questions here guys.

I am not familiar with a 3 angle valve job, can some one xplain what it is & its purpose please?

Also, "Extrude Hone the intake manifold, port and polish head.", what is xtrude hone the intake manifold? & what is the purpose of doing it?

What is getting the rods shot peened?

Thanks

 

The three angle valve job refers to the preparation of the valve seat and how it is machined (in three parts). You basically are trying to create a smooth flow of air into the combustion chamber. The edge of the valveseat is an area of potential turbulence that can affect the swirling of the air/fuel mixture, so what you are trying to do with the valve job is to smooth this area as much as possible all while maintaining a hermetic seal of the valve when in the closed position. The angles that the valveseat are cut are almost an art but mostly a science. There is also such thing as a 5-angle valve job too (more $$)

Extrude Honing is a way of polishing metal pieces from the inside using a mixture of polymer putty and silicone carbide abrasive that is forced through the piece under great pressure and velocity. This mixture abrades and ports any passage that get in its way. Since the amount of material removed is proportional to the putty's velocity through the passage, Extrude Honing naturally removes more material in areas where flow is restricted and removes less from freer flowing areas. FWIW I don't think that it's necessary for the ITR intake because the potential gains you will see from this mod aren't justified compared to its cost. Extrude Honing does improve air flow and can be used on other parts like the cylinder head (generally pieces that are too hard or impossible to polish by hand).

Shot peening is a special treating of metal pieces done by blasting them with little metal beads similar to buck shot. It work hardens the surface of the metal and makes it stronger. This is good for cast metal pieces. If you are using forged pieces, it is not necessary.


[Modified by Big Phat R, 1:07 PM 8/31/2001]

 

Yes, and it will include the short cat that matches up to the 2.5" collector. Email me if you think you might be interested.

Wes

 

Big Phat R: Once again you have cleared things up for me. Thank you, that was very informative.

 

Thanks a ton guys for the suggestions/input/comments, they are all very helpful! I may end up going with Spec C's since it appears that I will just need some fuel upgrades, and more tuning if I remember correctly.

As far as the 2-way Mugen LSD, I have driven a car with it on the track, and my stock one on the track, and it gives more control under braking. Also, on the street, I can feel a difference.

Thanks again guys for the help.