Heres the current plans...

H23A block:
-IB Spec H22/23 Sleeves
-IB IB Spec H22 rods
-H23 Crank blalnced
-IB Spec 88mm Super's 12.8:1

2311cc 1.51 r/s ratio

H22 Head:
-IB H22 Race Head
-IB Spec SS valves
-IB Spec Dual Valve Springs
-IB Spec Titanium Retainers
-IB Spec cams (custom for this build)
-IB Spec Intake Manifold (H22 prototype)
-IB Spec 80-75mm TB
-IB Spec H22 Race Header

This was my original plan to try and get my 98 'lude runnin 12's all motor... stripped, gutted everything removed, no AC, no PS Fiberglass fenders, front and rear bumpers, CF hood, cut up dummy doors for the track and of course Ill be runnin on slicks... HOPING for 240 WHP and mid 12's

After alot of going back in forth I now find myself confused as to whether or not I should go with the H23 block or stick with the H22... The thing that I dont like about the H23 bottom end is the fact that I will loose some power up top as well as having a lower overall peak HP number... BUT, I feel with my particular car (heavy *** pig car) the torque increase should make up for the small loss in the top end I would experience with the H23 block...

Question is, if it were you... would you stroke or not stroke lol

And of course... Why?

 

Well I don't recommend the H23 VTEC to anyone because of what I did to mine, look here for the carnage https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=441374

That was last year, motor lasted 10,000 miles. Made 204/161 for a short while. But I thinkit was a freak occurence, we revved it too high and had a UR crank pulley which really laid a beating on the crank mains.

Anyways on to your setup.

1) The H23A crank has 50mm mains, your 98 H22a block has 55mm mains. It's not going to work. Main bearing size changed in 98. Your only option is to get an H23A VTEC crank from the 99+ Accord SiR Wagon. That H23A crank has the larger mains and will fit. But it's pretty damn rare. If you want a big *** stroker motor why don't you use the F23A1 SOHC VTEC crank? It's 97mm and will drop in the H22a block. But talk about lower redline for sure or you'll wear that out fast.

edit: oh are you using an H23 block? Nevermind then it will fit cause it's an H23 block.

2) Assuming you get a crank that will fit, let's assume you get an H23A JDM 55mm crank. I see you're using an H22a rod, which will make the pistons stock out of the block. That is unless you are doing a custom piston with a higher pin placement closer to the oil ring? Confirm that.

 

Yes it will be a custom piston with, if I can remember correctly... a 1.149 compression height

If Im off with the compression height than oh well, Im a bit too lazy right now to grab a calculater and figure it out again

 

well i guess the question is where are your cams designed to make power? An H23 crank with cams designed to make power over 8000 rpms is not really a good idea.

Is this planned to ba a daily driver? Just a few drag runs?

I think the stroke/no stroke options depends on how you plan to use the car.

p.s. did you get my IM?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i guess the question is where are your cams designed to make power? An H23 crank with cams designed to make power over 8000 rpms is not really a good idea.

Is this planned to ba a daily driver? Just a few drag runs?

I think the stroke/no stroke options depends on how you plan to use the car.

p.s. did you get my IM?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car will be driven pretty much everyday... the cams are going to be large lift and not a whole lot of duration... The cams are spec'd for that set up... I will most likely have a 8200 rpm cap with a peak at 7800 or so, the IM might bring the curve to a more broad band with a slightly higher peak but Ill have to wait until I have more time to play with plenum designs/ runner lengths and such.

No, I didnt get your IM/PM

 

-IB SpecI -IB SpecWould -IB SpecStroke -IB SpecIt -IB SpecAnd -
IB SpecMake -IB SpecThe -IB Spec Rod -IB SpecRatio -IB SpecEven
-IB SpecWorse -IB Spec

 

Rod ratio can be sacrificed as long as the parts you are using are up to the task... A lower rod ratio puts stress on parts such as rod bolts, rings (side load), bearings and the rods themselves... If you are building to talor a motor as such, cams with lower peak, High flowing head/IM/TB to generate the airflow needed to acomidate the higher piston speeds... a motor like that will need to breathe so these factors considered parts will all be selected to work in conjunction with one another...

Rod ratio is important in terms of longevity, Some of the highest HP motors in the world run rod ratios in the sub 1.3's, granted these are track motors where longevity is a term almost never used... It is not an absolutely necessary tool to achieve a high r/s ratio when building a motor, it does create more of an ease on the rotating parts and in turn will out last a motor with a lower r/s ratio but like I said before is not always necessary... For a motor that needs to see 8500-9500 than it is a factor, for a motor that probably will never see a tic over 8200... not really too much of a factor... 1.51 will be the r/s ratio to the set up I described...

 

even at 1.51, if you're planning to peak at 7800 I'd worry a little. I would be looking into some major oil system upgrades.

 

yeah, every angle will be covered... Ive seen H23/VTEC's pull to 8k all day for as long as 5 years (Jeffs old car/motor) and from what I heard is still running strong... Its all in how its built... This will be a reliable set up when all is said and done...