I sold my jun III's and im in search of something that will make a little more power then they did. Here the motor setup.
Block
LS/VTEC (GE Sleeved, gasported 12.3:1 Pistons, eagle rods, balanced, blueprinted, 85mm * 89mm, relocated wrist pins -> gsr r/s ratio.)

Head
ITR Head (mildly cleaned up, new valves and valvejob, ported and portmatched AEBS manifold, 70mm TB, EF1 valvesprings and retainers, Headertech SS 3" header w/ 3" QTEC, ANR IM gasket, hondata, 550cc injectors.)

Everything that can be coated in motor is..pistons, retainers (TiN), combustion chamber, etc)

I'm looking for big cams that will go well in my 12.5:1 final compression, 2.0L LS/VTEC, street motor. I'm looking to make around 240whp, streetable, i dont care about low end power just from 5000-6000 to 10,000+...

Considering:

1) EF-1 M24E (but on backorder forever and a day)
2) RS Machine cams (where do i find more info on these)
3) Dynamic Autosport Cams (the ones omni used in his stock internal b20)

Any ideas people?

 

I don't think you will see 240whp with that setup...

Why would you sell Jun 3s? Those are some of the best cams on the market, period...

EF-1 : Might be good, but still hype...
RS Cams: Regrinds, bah....
Dynamic Cams: Never used...

I have some EF-1s @ my shop right now, so Im not hatin'. We will see what they make on the dyno ina few weeks.

Suprdave

 

buy another set of jun 3's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TREVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy another set of jun 3's</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

No way, I sold them to my friend dirt cheap. If I have to buy them again, ill probably go insane, cus i'd pretty much lost like 400bux for no reason. Omniman made 220+whp on 10.7:1 with Dynamic Autosport Spec A's. I have the same setup, but better rod stroke, bigger bore, more compression, same head, similar IM, I think I should be able to make 230whp with his cams..

Any experience. It would be nice for omniman or brad to chime in.

I know the JunIII's are great cams, but i thought there was definately something that made more power then them.

 

What was the whp before you sold the cams? The "mildly cleaned up" head is most likely holding you back a bit.

More head work with the same cams would net a bit more power. If your a patient man I say go for the M24E's. If your not satisfied I'm sure Rocket will take care of you.

 

i think the m24's dynoed over the JUN III's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milanoGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the m24's dynoed over the JUN III's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, and the M24E's more aggressive.

 

The M24E's are really big cams. I dont think my head can flow them, and i dont think i have enough compression to run them.. They are 303/12.7mm lift, that's pretty big...

I just want the most power from my setup. I mean i got pretty decent set of parts, reliable bottom end, light pistons and flywheel, nice im, nice tb.. i just need to figure out what cams to use so i can assemble this thing...the head flows nice. It's just not a huge port. 12.5:1 is my final compression on the motor.

SuperDave - What do you think I need to have to achieve 240whp? Is there any way to do it without raising compression??

 

toda spec d's...got some for sale

 

If you put in bigger cams then you can afford to raise compression a bit to compensate. I thought I heard Rocket say that the advertised duration of his cams was at 0 lift. So at 1mm those cams are probably very similar to Skunk2 stg3s at least in lift & duration, who knows with lobe seperation, ramp speed, and ABDC. I'd say go with the Skunky bump sticks or M24Es. Heck go with the ef-1s we need to see more hard results on those.

 

you will not make 240whp with that setup....if it were that easy everybody would be doing it. You will make closer to 200-210...220 if you are lucky.

Louie

 

Bunch of negative nellies. He should do better than that. I got 223 on a 2l setup with Crower cams and 12.3:1 compression.

I bet you can get to 230+ with some work.

 

Skunk2 Stage 2 (pretty much the same as your old Jun3s), can do it. Although this setup is a little more radical than yours.
http://www.importreview.com/re....html

 

we have a set of jun type IV's at the shop if you want to give those a try - we haven't heard any feedback from the 4 other sets we have sold so i can't really tell you what kind of power gains to expect but they are pretty vicious - seems like they would realistically work really well for your setup - if you are interested in coming up to orlando and dyno'ing a bit i will cut you a deal on the cams so we can get have the results posted up for everyone - let me know, drop me an email at my work address - james@titanmotorsports.com - thanks

james

 

Theres always JUN IV's.

 

You should have hit 220 with what you had? I say its your head work and tunning that held you back. I hit 220 with toda b's untunned with just a standard 84x89 combo with a dpr head and smsp header.

 

Skunk2 Stg 3's if you want proven performance. There are plenty of other cams that will work too (Toda C/D, Jun III, etc.), but I've seen too many cars pumping out big NA hp on the Skunks to discount them, and the price is good too.

C_A_T

 

I don't think anyone has hit 240whp on a stock head and 1.8L...That's absurd. You have to have the airflow to support that kind of power. You have to think of the whole engine together. Not one part will make power if the other parts aren't equal. Can't just be captain bolt-on with it and expect to take on the world.

Airflow + Compression + Displacement

Those are the 3 things that make power in an All-Motor car.

Suprdave

 

I agree with Suprdave, anyone can build a high compression bottom end... In my mind all motor consists of headwork and cams... It's that simple... As for 230-240whp, maybe on a Dynojet or Dynopack dyno... Also watch how big you go with your cams, 12.3:1 static isn't all that much when you get up to the M24's+... Just my $0.02... Latez

 

Get your jun 3's back. Those EF cams or what ever they are is all hype. Then get a good tuner

 

todas c,d's or jun's...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how could you take anything Al Bundy says seriously, he's a shoe salesman! lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have authority over everyone

 

You should of made 240+hp with your old set-up. I believe your head is the one holding you back. It's all in the combination, if you have an intake manifold and cams that rip to 10,000rpm but your head can only flow enough CFM for a 2L revving to 8,500rpm, your engine won't make full VE. All of your money should be in your head. Your engine will only make as much power as the head will let it flow.
Having the best of everything will do you no good if the combination doesn't match. Allmotor engines live and die with different set-ups, boost on the other hand gives you a bandaid for these mistakes.
Get your head done by a pro.
I'm running an allmotor stock bore & stroke GSR w/ 11.3:1
DPR cams
DPR ported head
Built in my garage at home.
I recommend running a Hondata and getting your car tuned by someone with experience.
I put down 217hp @ 8,450 and 140ft/lbs @ 6,500
You should make around 245+hp
Remember... CFM CFM CFM!!!
Stay in VTEC yall.
HAULA

 

Also what header did you have?