Well I'll be getting my first car in about 1.5 years and I'm still debating on what to get. But I do want a CRX 90-91, 240 SX 95-96, or a Integra 94-96. Well I'm still deciding but I'm not going to ask what car I want here but what is a good ball park for a CRX SI with less than 150k miles to be. I know that frame damage is also very easy for these little cars and I remember that a friend telling me to look at the A arms up front. If I were to get a CRX how hard would it be to get a B18 or a B20 in CA though smog. Also if I got one I know where to look for rust; fuel tank, sun roof, and um fenders front/rear. If the molding was painted on the car (black cladding) If I took brake fluid and denatured alcohol could I strip away the paint?
What would be a good procedure to paint a CRX if I were to get one say a bit early and paint one; strip it or start up front little by little?

What are other problem areas to look at other than for frame damage? If I went to a junkyard and got a motor B20 or a B18 what would be the procedures in installing it. Also while in the engine bay I should mask it/ hose it down and use simple green and re mask, sand, and paint it right? What tools would I need for an engine swap.. I already have a 15 gallon air compressor and some air tools. How many quarts would be needed to paint a CRX

 

You can answer most of the questions by doing searches on here.

Otherwise, the CRX Si is a good choice IMO. Excellent gas mileage, easy daily driver, runs like a champ, usually find them around 2-3 g's in good condition.

 

That's what I've thought... It's true that you can get close to 30 mpg with teh D16A6 block? I really don't care if it has NO power steering which most USDM CRX's didn't. I can drive my dad's 92 tercel beater with no P/S perfectly.. How ever when u tell me to drive a 97 3.0 ranger with no power steering and it's a long bed I'll pass. 15" rota slips don't rub do they.

 

15" rota's shouldn't rub...

I prefer the DX model over the Si. The reason is that I dislike sunroof's (to much to deal with as far as leaks and such..besides, I don't need one. That is my deciding factor in buying a car. HF seemed a bit to bare, and Si seemed to have a bit to much for me, so the DX fit in there well.

Good luck...and let us know how it all goes. Nice to see you're researching.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neuspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what I've thought... It's true that you can get close to 30 mpg with teh D16A6 block? I really don't care if it has NO power steering which most USDM CRX's didn't. I can drive my dad's 92 tercel beater with no P/S perfectly.. How ever when u tell me to drive a 97 3.0 ranger with no power steering and it's a long bed I'll pass. 15" rota slips don't rub do they.
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I have a 90 DX and I get 42 MPG on the highway.

 

The D16A6 gets well over 30mpg, average is about 35mpg if you don't drive around at 6500 RPM all day.

B20 into a Civic is illegal in California. B18 could be smogged as long as you have all the proper USDM emissions controls.

Mileage does not matter with a Honda, what matters is the condition it is in and how well it has been taken care of. I am buying a CRX with over 220,000 miles soon and looking forward to it, it has been very well cared for and in excellent shape. However I have seen CRXes with 90,000 miles looking like they are ready for the crusher.

Also get under the car and look for rust around the bumper supports. You are in California so rust shouldn't be as much of a problem as it is where I am in the northeast.

As for engine swaps do a search, there is an unbelievable amount of information around here on engine swaps.

 

So I've seen on this site.... The ZC is also hard to pass smog right??? What about a B16 from the Del sol???? Would a Turbo D16A6 mini me be a bad idea??? As reliability factors... What tools should I have before I begin to buy a car and repair/ paint it.

 

If you're planning on keeping the D16A6 and want to turbo that first things first is to compression test the motor. If you've got low readings then turboing it is only going to cause more trouble (in which case a motor swap would be your best bet). I don't know anything about emissions since I don't have to deal with that here.

 

Well what are good compression #'s and how much would it be to test.

 

I'm not sure what a good compression is on the D16A6 (although I'm sure it's been posted before) but you can rent a compression tester for real cheap or even buy one for about $30-$40 at an automotive store (at least around where I live)