O.K. So I have decided to modify my Type R for my senior project (let the flames begin). I, along with Austin and Iggy, have come up with some ideas but I would like to see what you guys would do. Who knows your ideas might be better. I want to stay NA. I have $3500 right now and will have more from work but I would like to keep it under $4000. I am looking for midrange and top end power.

Who could use your ideas.

 

Take it to some open track days, and record times before and after suspension work, stickier tires, etc. This would be a lot more fun than just tuning for a straight line

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaysonx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to some open track days, and record times before and after suspension work, stickier tires, etc. This would be a lot more fun than just tuning for a straight line </TD></TR></TABLE>

I like that idea, who is this new guy???

 

well I also wanted to get a bit more power. Anybody else?

 

Here are the stuff you can get to keep it under $4000:

Toda Header $980:


Carsound Cat $175:


Buddy Club Spec III $660:


Mugen Intake $650:


VAFC $310:


Wire Harness for VAFC ~$160
.
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That all comes out to be $2945 + Shipping and Tunning. Looks like we will be giving Mike at IPS a call.

 

Hehe, and all that should net you what.. 15hp if your lucky?

 

If properly tuned, 25 give or take a few.

Key word, tuned.

IGGY, don't forget the many hours on the Dyno, thats going to cost a few pennies!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaysonx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take it to some open track days, and record times before and after suspension work, stickier tires, etc. This would be a lot more fun than just tuning for a straight line </TD></TR></TABLE>

Timing on a race track = no insurance coverage, and a beginner on a race course trying to push every last piece out of a car =

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If properly tuned, 25 give or take a few.

Key word, tuned.

IGGY, don't forget the many hours on the Dyno, thats going to cost a few pennies!</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he just goes for a VAFC that can be tuned easily enough...and I'm sure that Lawrence at DynoSpot Racing will give us a decent rate on the use of the dyno and WBO2.

Austin

 

Austin, my thoughts exactly.

 

Iggy, that would leave me with $1k. I could use some for tuning and the rest for other extras, I guess.

 

iggy, get your jdm bling stuff outa here.

get a custom header or smsp/hytech, kteller8 2.5" exhaust, cam gears, hondata (vafc is for posers ) and filter on a stick

you will have money left to put it into other better places

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Timing on a race track = no insurance coverage, and a beginner on a race course trying to push every last piece out of a car = </TD></TR></TABLE>


I agree and you shouldn't time yourself on a racetrack. Autocross is a bit different though.


And thats why it's called EDUCATION not racing.

If learning basic handling is the issue then Autocross is a fine way to start out and Again, power is not the key to succeeding here either.

Look, if I did it all over again, I wouldn't change much. Mostly because I didn't do much more than actually learning how to handle the car, (autocross) and then learning to drive it better (HPDE) and then learning to drive it well (more HPDE) and hopefully learning to outdrive it soon (lostsa HPDE till I am good enough to be moved to the advanced group.)


It's all perception.


More available power is always wanted at whatever level.

But, more power is Not the key to the ITR. Keeping it balanced and mastering it and your own skill with it are where it's at.

If I could only have 1 mod for an R, it would hands down be the ATS 4.929, Final Drive

If I could have only 1 bolt on mod (I,H or E, regardless you still need a HF cat) it would still be a header. My choice was the Spoon but, the Toda, SMSP and even Hytech are tops. Intakes and Exhausts don't net much without a good header.

If after those 2 mods I needed anything else, I'd still go with my Sparco EVO2, Autopower rollbar, Sabelt harnesses and R spec pads.

And when I was ready I'd go to R compound tires.

You don't need much to be quick in an R. Mostly it is the driver alone that limits this cars ability and or performance.

To each his own, I promote education first though, go to an Autocross or 2 or 3 or 5 or 10, then try HPDE when it is feasable.

For $4,000, I'm sure you could find an insurance company that would cover you just in case and still have some $$$ to hit the track a few times and really learn.

End of sermon.


Anton

 

what is this filter on a stick that you speak of?

 

for that kind of money
hmmm
turbo ?
oh wait na
header and catback and some tuning best bang for buck before some cams i guess

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MARTIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is this filter on a stick that you speak of?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ex. Intake

 

1GreyTeg

I fully agree with you...that was my very first suggestion when Martin bought the car ~2-3 months ago...HPDE, with full instruction, that he should do a couple of them...and learn the car, then add power as needed. But since he needs quantitative, repeatable data for the project the easiest and most fool proof way is to modify the car for additional power through a well thought out plan of modifications.

I'm not for him to spend $4,000...for $4,000 he should have more power, a couple of driving schools, a rollbar, harnesses, seat, tires, pads...all the stuff.

Martin...you still know how I stand on what to change.

Austin

 

Haha, yeah Rob, I know that there is alot of bling in-der.

With the extra money you can get the Kosei's that you want, matin.

 

Consider what are you tuning for, what are your goals for the car? Straight line, daily driver / track, circuit.

It'll be a waste of money to buy stuff that will never be useful.

 

I think he will be doing some track or AutoX and street.

 

most effective way for power IMO:

toda header + 2.5 testpipe/b-pipe/exhaust from kteller8 (~1000+55+185+install)
keep the stock filter, DIY a cold air duct down to the bumper (~5)
camgears (~250)
hondata (~500)
proper dyno tuning (?)

 

why is he spending all this money if he doesnt even know the basic stuff?

just go drive the damn thing first

filter on a stick has a website:

http://www.filteronastick.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MARTIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">O.K. So I have decided to modify my Type R for my senior project (let the flames begin). </TD></TR></TABLE>

What's the point of this project?

 

Get yourself an ATS FD and some good tires.. then a good header and exhaust. Go to the track. And go from there...

 

Geratol, for this project, I need to do something that I have never done before. That part would be the actual install of the parts. It is a graduation requirement, so that is why my modifications have been pushed up a few months. For all the other flamers