someone give some info on how to get my flywheel off motor is out of the car its a 1.5

 

you cant get your flywheel off? your a moron! jk. bump. who can help us out. its on a d15

 

Jam a screwdriver between the teeth to keep the flywheel from turning as you unbolt it. Then take a socket / breaker bar to the bolts.

Pretty straight forward. Make sure to consult your Helms for the proper torque settings on installation of your new flywheel.

 

Impact Wrench.

 

Hehe if these guys are asking how to get a flywheel off, I seriously doubt they have access to air tools. (If they do have air tools, god only knows what type of damage they have done so far!)

 

impact didn't take it off, i jammed a screw driver in it and broke it if half ...

 

first time doin a motor swamp uncle says have to learn myself...

 

LOL wow.. ok, well whatever you do.. DON'T strip the threads on the flywheel bolts. Are you sure your using the right socket? I believe it's 12 point 17mm on the flywheel.....

I have removed numerous flywheels while the motor was out of the car and never had a big problem. If its real bad, soak the bolts with PB Blaster and try again in the morning.

 

17mm... i don't want to strip them that why im on here
i was going to go through the oil pan and lock the crank up and do it that way it a blown motor...i blew the motor at 19lbs...

 

i was thinking pb blaster but i have no car to get to pep boys....

 

Heat is also your friend. Just dont mix that and PB Blaster :x

Taking off the oil pan and locking the crank is another option.... Just cram a crowbar or something up in there.. as long as you never want to reuse the block.

 

wish it was late or i would do that... i cant wait for my setup to go in..im goin mini me...

 

see the dude i bought the car off of destroyed everything i did was a big project they did everything half ***.

 

Just give up for the night and go at it tomorrow. Put any penetrating lube on it and let it sit overnight.. (WD40, etc)


Modified by jaysonx at 11:21 PM 10/6/2003

 

Use a propane torch to heat each bolt, not the whole mounting plate, Spray with a penetrant the reheat just the bolts. Using a high quality 12 point 17mm 1/2 drive impact. hit it firmly. Be sure to hold it firmly against the flywheel bolt head. It has never failed me and I'm on my 14 or 15 motor change/swap.

 

let you know what happens tommorrow thanks man....

 

just sprayed some wd on it...

 

for future referance .. get a ratchet and the socket you need for the crank pulley on the other side .. put it on and then put a pipe on the ratchet and jam it on the floor then just take the bolts off the flywheel.

 

breaker bar...not rachet. the rachet will break

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NitrousDreamz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for future referance .. get a ratchet and the socket you need for the crank pulley on the other side .. put it on and then put a pipe on the ratchet and jam it on the floor then just take the bolts off the flywheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I do. Also used a cheater pipe on the flywheel end. I cheater bars.

Also...why are you taking the flywheel off if you're doing a swap? Going to reuse it?

 

umay need to turn the air pressure up on the compressor to give it more ftlbs cause it might be too tight for stock rpessure

 

You guys are all crazy..

there is a small bracket that braces your header to the bottom of the block...

Take that and bolt (one that you would use a 14mm socket on), and bolt the bracket into the block on the fly wheel side in a way that the bracket fits between the teeth of the fly wheel..and then take the flywheel bolts off now that the flywheel is im-movable.

If they fly wheel bolts are being a pain in the *** I lay the motor down on its backside and give it the foot and break the bolts loose..

One of these days I will takes pics of this..

 

yup!<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outsane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are all crazy..

there is a small bracket that braces your header to the bottom of the block...

Take that and bolt (one that you would use a 14mm socket on), and bolt the bracket into the block on the fly wheel side in a way that the bracket fits between the teeth of the fly wheel..and then take the flywheel bolts off now that the flywheel is im-movable.

If they fly wheel bolts are being a pain in the *** I lay the motor down on its backside and give it the foot and break the bolts loose..

One of these days I will takes pics of this..</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outsane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are all crazy..

there is a small bracket that braces your header to the bottom of the block...

Take that and bolt (one that you would use a 14mm socket on), and bolt the bracket into the block on the fly wheel side in a way that the bracket fits between the teeth of the fly wheel..and then take the flywheel bolts off now that the flywheel is im-movable.

If they fly wheel bolts are being a pain in the *** I lay the motor down on its backside and give it the foot and break the bolts loose..

One of these days I will takes pics of this..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make a brace. It's really easy. All you need is a thin piece of metal stock about 12" long. You can get metal stock at just about every hardware store. 1/8" or 1/16" should be fine. I think I made mine with 1/16 aluminium.

Put a hole in one end of the metal stock so that you can fit a tranny bolt through it. Bolt it onto the tranny. Now bend the rest so that it reaches one of the bolt holes that you mount the clutch with. Mark it and drill a hole in there as well. Just bolt that in and it holds the flywheel in place just fine.

You could probably even use a short length of skinny chain if you happen to have some laying around. Just bolt the chain down.

When I remove my flywheel it was a serious pain. The socket kept wanting to slip off and it required a LOT of force (I was jumping on a 4 foot pipe extension). After inspecting the socket, I found that grinding about 1/32" off the face of the socket would help it engage better. It made a big difference! The socket held on a LOT better after that.

 

I say take a 1/2 inch impact with a 6 point impact socket, make sure the tank is at full pressure, and back those bastards out of there.