Doing some research on what CRX / Civic people want. NOT A FS THREAD!!!!!
Well, basically I am making this thread to inquire as to what kind of parts you guys would be interested in seeing made for the ef's. I have made alot of different turbo manifolds for almost anything but the hondas.
I will post some pics of some of the things that I have made, so you can see that I am not just talking out my ***.
I made this whole kit.
I made this manifold, and fmic tubing.
I have more pics if you want to see more...
Basically, I would like to know what engine and chassis you would like to see more products built for.
Thanks for your time.
keithv
I will post some pics of some of the things that I have made, so you can see that I am not just talking out my ***.
I made this whole kit.
I made this manifold, and fmic tubing.
I have more pics if you want to see more...
Basically, I would like to know what engine and chassis you would like to see more products built for.
Thanks for your time.
keithv
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gotta go with one for the B16A1 for the Civic and CRX Si! I wanna test it!!! 
Once again... B16A1. Into an EF.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay, first suggestion.

Once again... B16A1. Into an EF.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Okay, first suggestion.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noah ***** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18a turbo manifold for hatch. also maybe a higher flowing intake manifold. let me know matt. i love your work.
can you do equal lenght stuff?</TD></TR></TABLE>
b18 / b16 would be the same manifold.... Right?
The only equal length stuff that I have done has been for the rotaries.
can you do equal lenght stuff?</TD></TR></TABLE>
b18 / b16 would be the same manifold.... Right?
The only equal length stuff that I have done has been for the rotaries.
B18A and b18B have different manifolds than vtec motors. i would love to see some more hyro tranny things like hasport has on the market. also any intake manifold that you can reduce size on for bseries would be great becasue so many of who are into making out motor look clean know that its so hard bacause there is just no space in the bay. no space to work or space to look clean .. it looks so clutter and the intake manifold is part of it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NitrousDreamz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18A and b18B have different manifolds than vtec motors. i would love to see some more hyro tranny things like hasport has on the market. also any intake manifold that you can reduce size on for bseries would be great becasue so many of who are into making out motor look clean know that its so hard bacause there is just no space in the bay. no space to work or space to look clean .. it looks so clutter and the intake manifold is part of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you are talking intake manifolds you are correct. If your talking exhaust manifolds then yes some are diffrent but the b16a b18a b18b b18 c1 and b18c5 and **** even b16b all have the same exhaust bolt pattern so the b series one he makes will fit them all
if you are talking intake manifolds you are correct. If your talking exhaust manifolds then yes some are diffrent but the b16a b18a b18b b18 c1 and b18c5 and **** even b16b all have the same exhaust bolt pattern so the b series one he makes will fit them all
definitely an intake manifold for a zc as well as a turbomanifold and piping for the zc, but i assume most of it is the same for all the dseries in rexes......... i love the d turbo kit, if i go the custom turbo route instead of the greddy kit i will be in touch.
Matt, I wouldn't waste my time worrying about an a/c compatible manifold for the B-Series in an EF. I bet less than 2% of people with swaps retain A/C.
This is something that would help me, as I am going through problems right now:
It makes it 10x easier to mount the compressor on the drivers side. The key here is try and have the turbo flange as low as possible on the manifold and tuck that compressor in towards the block, possibly allowing the stock radiator to stay in with no problem. Also, this makes downpipe fabrication way easier because all you have to do is bust a 90 off the turbine housing and your already in line with going under the oilpan. No issues at all with the Jimfab in this location, but you gotta snake it around if you come from the other side. This configuration also makes the oil return real simple, no need to come across the DP, you can pretty much run straight to the oilpan. Of course, I'C piping is a bitch, but I think the easiest thing to do is (with the compressor outlet up), just hook it a 180 and drop it right where the windshield wiper fluid reservoir sits. Maybe include a "custom bracket" and a small bottle to replace the stock one. I think the overflow bottle may need to be relocated, but that shouldnt be a big deal either. Everything else is a piece of cake from there.
Wow, that got wordy and I hope it makes half as much sense as I think it did. The picture that you showed basically has the turbo sticking out towards the front of the car, and thats just tough to do in the little room we have.
This is something that would help me, as I am going through problems right now:
It makes it 10x easier to mount the compressor on the drivers side. The key here is try and have the turbo flange as low as possible on the manifold and tuck that compressor in towards the block, possibly allowing the stock radiator to stay in with no problem. Also, this makes downpipe fabrication way easier because all you have to do is bust a 90 off the turbine housing and your already in line with going under the oilpan. No issues at all with the Jimfab in this location, but you gotta snake it around if you come from the other side. This configuration also makes the oil return real simple, no need to come across the DP, you can pretty much run straight to the oilpan. Of course, I'C piping is a bitch, but I think the easiest thing to do is (with the compressor outlet up), just hook it a 180 and drop it right where the windshield wiper fluid reservoir sits. Maybe include a "custom bracket" and a small bottle to replace the stock one. I think the overflow bottle may need to be relocated, but that shouldnt be a big deal either. Everything else is a piece of cake from there.
Wow, that got wordy and I hope it makes half as much sense as I think it did. The picture that you showed basically has the turbo sticking out towards the front of the car, and thats just tough to do in the little room we have.
i will second, or third, hell prolly fourht the notion for a turbo kit, and by kit i mean KIT, not just a manifold, the FMIC piping, and all for a b series, in a ef (mainly a crx
)
)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricodemus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Matt, I wouldn't waste my time worrying about an a/c compatible manifold for the B-Series in an EF. I bet less than 2% of people with swaps retain A/C.
This is something that would help me, as I am going through problems right now:
It makes it 10x easier to mount the compressor on the drivers side. The key here is try and have the turbo flange as low as possible on the manifold and tuck that compressor in towards the block, possibly allowing the stock radiator to stay in with no problem. Also, this makes downpipe fabrication way easier because all you have to do is bust a 90 off the turbine housing and your already in line with going under the oilpan. No issues at all with the Jimfab in this location, but you gotta snake it around if you come from the other side. This configuration also makes the oil return real simple, no need to come across the DP, you can pretty much run straight to the oilpan. Of course, I'C piping is a bitch, but I think the easiest thing to do is (with the compressor outlet up), just hook it a 180 and drop it right where the windshield wiper fluid reservoir sits. Maybe include a "custom bracket" and a small bottle to replace the stock one. I think the overflow bottle may need to be relocated, but that shouldnt be a big deal either. Everything else is a piece of cake from there.
Wow, that got wordy and I hope it makes half as much sense as I think it did. The picture that you showed basically has the turbo sticking out towards the front of the car, and thats just tough to do in the little room we have.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Makes sense to me. I only put the compressor on that side because that's how everyone else does it.
It does fit the other way better.
Thanks for the comments / suggestions so far from everyone.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4inspeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will second, or third, hell prolly fourht the notion for a turbo kit, and by kit i mean KIT, not just a manifold, the FMIC piping, and all for a b series, in a ef (mainly a crx
)</TD></TR></TABLE>
What id tubing would you like to see, and any particular fmic sizing?
Another thing that I am kind of thinking about is doing a na header. Those guys are charging alot of money for those..... I have access to a dyno, so proving that it makes power isn't a problem.
This is something that would help me, as I am going through problems right now:
It makes it 10x easier to mount the compressor on the drivers side. The key here is try and have the turbo flange as low as possible on the manifold and tuck that compressor in towards the block, possibly allowing the stock radiator to stay in with no problem. Also, this makes downpipe fabrication way easier because all you have to do is bust a 90 off the turbine housing and your already in line with going under the oilpan. No issues at all with the Jimfab in this location, but you gotta snake it around if you come from the other side. This configuration also makes the oil return real simple, no need to come across the DP, you can pretty much run straight to the oilpan. Of course, I'C piping is a bitch, but I think the easiest thing to do is (with the compressor outlet up), just hook it a 180 and drop it right where the windshield wiper fluid reservoir sits. Maybe include a "custom bracket" and a small bottle to replace the stock one. I think the overflow bottle may need to be relocated, but that shouldnt be a big deal either. Everything else is a piece of cake from there.
Wow, that got wordy and I hope it makes half as much sense as I think it did. The picture that you showed basically has the turbo sticking out towards the front of the car, and thats just tough to do in the little room we have.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Makes sense to me. I only put the compressor on that side because that's how everyone else does it.
It does fit the other way better.Thanks for the comments / suggestions so far from everyone.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4inspeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will second, or third, hell prolly fourht the notion for a turbo kit, and by kit i mean KIT, not just a manifold, the FMIC piping, and all for a b series, in a ef (mainly a crx
)</TD></TR></TABLE>What id tubing would you like to see, and any particular fmic sizing?
Another thing that I am kind of thinking about is doing a na header. Those guys are charging alot of money for those..... I have access to a dyno, so proving that it makes power isn't a problem.
How about a manifold for the B18A that will allow the use of the TD04 that comes with the Greddy D series kit, INCLUDING the greddy D series downpipe.
This way people like me and the countless others with D series greddy kits on D series motors can upgrade the a B18A and still use our complete turbo kit... no getting a new down pipe, not getting new charge pipes, etc. Basically it would be a B series manifold that mounted a TD04 in the same basic place as a Greddy k on a D series.
HKS used to make something sort of similar I think, but I'm not sure. I know you can mod a D series manifold to fit, but it would be ace to have the real deal made.
This way people like me and the countless others with D series greddy kits on D series motors can upgrade the a B18A and still use our complete turbo kit... no getting a new down pipe, not getting new charge pipes, etc. Basically it would be a B series manifold that mounted a TD04 in the same basic place as a Greddy k on a D series.
HKS used to make something sort of similar I think, but I'm not sure. I know you can mod a D series manifold to fit, but it would be ace to have the real deal made.




