short shifter
Get a skunk 2 short shifter, its got a really short shift. but it isnt 50 dollars. if you want a cheap one go to a local parts store and get a 30 dollar one there, but its not worth it. Its really what you want.
Just get a B&M short shifter. Below is a link to get one for $45 shipped
And I think it's made of stainless steel, and not aluminum, so you don't have to worry about it geting really hot from the exhaust pipe like most aluminum ones do
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=614500
And I think it's made of stainless steel, and not aluminum, so you don't have to worry about it geting really hot from the exhaust pipe like most aluminum ones do
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=614500
its really hard to drive it so it doesnt grind, it will eventually start grinding, ive had mine for about a year now and once a day it grinds third really bad, the short shifter messes up your sychros because its doesnt give them enough time to line up and kind of just shoves them into place because your shifting alot faster with the short shifter, waste of money IMO
Ive got the skunk2 dual bend shifter, skunk2 ****, and urethane bushings. I think that the skunk2 shifter is way overpriced and if I had to do it again I probably would have just stuck with the stock shifter. The throw wasnt really that much shorter and wasnt much smoother either. I think that the **** made shifting alot smooter cuz its really heavy. I also liked the bushings, made it feel a little stiffer and more direct. You might wanna try the **** and bushings and if youre still not happy get a short shifter later on. Just my 0.2 cents!
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bushings is the biggest difference-doesnt matter what shifter it is, if the bushing are bad its gonna suck. I had the tenzo R short shifter and it snapped on me at the track.. I have the skunk2 now and love it. Cept i wish it would sit a little lower
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16OnTop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its really hard to drive it so it doesnt grind, it will eventually start grinding, ive had mine for about a year now and once a day it grinds third really bad, the short shifter messes up your sychros because its doesnt give them enough time to line up and kind of just shoves them into place because your shifting alot faster with the short shifter, waste of money IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats right, my neuspeed Short throw completely fucked my synchros in second. Grinds almost every time. They are a waste of money.
Thats right, my neuspeed Short throw completely fucked my synchros in second. Grinds almost every time. They are a waste of money.
bought my skunk2 dual bend new for $120, and put ES bushings with it. It has a little notchy feel to it, but i like it. The shifts are more procise and a lot shorter! The only thing i hated about it was that the end of the shifter attached to the shifter linkage was rubbing against my resonator. So i had to have a shop bend the hangers of the b-pipe down
. Other than that
. Other than that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xx dc2teg xx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bushings is the biggest difference-doesnt matter what shifter it is, if the bushing are bad its gonna suck. I had the tenzo R short shifter and it snapped on me at the track.. I have the skunk2 now and love it. Cept i wish it would sit a little lower</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeha i wanna email skunk2 and see if theyll take my shifter back, cut it 2 inches rethread it and send it back for a fee. i was hoping to get rid of that truck look of the shifter but at least the shifter is a lot smoother and positive on shifts.
when you installed the shifter what oieces did you put on the linkage end?? i put in the spacer and those two things that fit into the side of the shifter's bearing. at first it was tight but now theres a lot of play in the shifter. i think i broke the spacer or something.
as far as grinding. the throws are shorter so go slower and easier on shifts and you should be good.
yeha i wanna email skunk2 and see if theyll take my shifter back, cut it 2 inches rethread it and send it back for a fee. i was hoping to get rid of that truck look of the shifter but at least the shifter is a lot smoother and positive on shifts.
when you installed the shifter what oieces did you put on the linkage end?? i put in the spacer and those two things that fit into the side of the shifter's bearing. at first it was tight but now theres a lot of play in the shifter. i think i broke the spacer or something.
as far as grinding. the throws are shorter so go slower and easier on shifts and you should be good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unityx00x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B & M, going on 8 months, no grinding problems. Small rattle, but nothing to complain about
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same here. B&M going on 3 yrs no grinds
</TD></TR></TABLE>same here. B&M going on 3 yrs no grinds
are you driving it differnetly so taht you do not grind? becuase thats wierd how ur not grinding at all....and is the B&M short shifter good for its price?
the people who lose their syncro's are the ones who slam every gear all the time. if you go slow and easy it'll reduce the wear on the synchro's the shifter has to be balanced to provide smooth positive shifts with minimal wear. companies like B&M and Skunk2 put R&D into this stuff. those $30 shifters you'll find are either just cut stock replica's or they just lengthened the bottom portion without redesigning the whole shifter.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 12,499
Likes: 2
From: Newark/Bay Area, CA., USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FD3S »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have one for sale with bushings.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=639861 </TD></TR></TABLE>
CHECK YOUR PM!!! I want that short shifter.....my obx one sucks! funds in paypal ready to go!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=639861 </TD></TR></TABLE>
CHECK YOUR PM!!! I want that short shifter.....my obx one sucks! funds in paypal ready to go!
The short shifter and premature syncho argument rises again. I have the DC short shifter and if you are just RAMMING it into gear as fast as you can, it does grind. If you "let it" into gear, it doesn't grind. If you've ever shifted into gear without the use of the clutch, you'll understand what i'm talking about. You can't just force it into gear.
By the way, the DC sits pretty low. The razo shift **** actually can't even screw down all the way without it hitting that little boot on the ring.
By the way, the DC sits pretty low. The razo shift **** actually can't even screw down all the way without it hitting that little boot on the ring.
I got my B&M short throw from http://www.optauto.com for $50. Here's a link:
http://www.optauto.com/webstor...=1028
http://www.optauto.com/webstor...=1028
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,069
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2Ijth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats right, my neuspeed Short throw completely fucked my synchros in second. Grinds almost every time. They are a waste of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jeez I don't know what you guys are doing to cause your synchros to grind, but it is NOT because of the short shifter.
Take my car for example, I bought a $40 short throw from AutoZone. It's been in my car for 2 years now, over 50K miles, including some track use and lots of spirited driving, high RPM shifts, etc. I have NO grinding problems, unless I just don't disengage the clutch all the way. Shifts feel great, very smooth. The shifter is also the same height as the stock shifter, but the throws are shorter than a stock Miata 6-speed shifter.
Yes it is aluminum, but I've been back and forth between my Razo shift **** and OEM and no signs of breaking or anything like that.
Sure I would love a Skunk2 shifter, but as long as my $40 generic one keeps trucking, I sure as hell won't waste my money on another one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cougar10ag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeha i wanna email skunk2 and see if theyll take my shifter back, cut it 2 inches rethread it and send it back for a fee. i was hoping to get rid of that truck look of the shifter but at least the shifter is a lot smoother and positive on shifts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could cut it yourself and get a die and rethread it. I did that to my old car's shifter because nobody made a short throw for it, so I cut and rewelded it back together and also shortened the height inside the car. It's not too hard if you have a vise to hold it in, and a hacksaw.
Thats right, my neuspeed Short throw completely fucked my synchros in second. Grinds almost every time. They are a waste of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jeez I don't know what you guys are doing to cause your synchros to grind, but it is NOT because of the short shifter.
Take my car for example, I bought a $40 short throw from AutoZone. It's been in my car for 2 years now, over 50K miles, including some track use and lots of spirited driving, high RPM shifts, etc. I have NO grinding problems, unless I just don't disengage the clutch all the way. Shifts feel great, very smooth. The shifter is also the same height as the stock shifter, but the throws are shorter than a stock Miata 6-speed shifter.
Yes it is aluminum, but I've been back and forth between my Razo shift **** and OEM and no signs of breaking or anything like that.Sure I would love a Skunk2 shifter, but as long as my $40 generic one keeps trucking, I sure as hell won't waste my money on another one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cougar10ag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeha i wanna email skunk2 and see if theyll take my shifter back, cut it 2 inches rethread it and send it back for a fee. i was hoping to get rid of that truck look of the shifter but at least the shifter is a lot smoother and positive on shifts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could cut it yourself and get a die and rethread it. I did that to my old car's shifter because nobody made a short throw for it, so I cut and rewelded it back together and also shortened the height inside the car. It's not too hard if you have a vise to hold it in, and a hacksaw.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cougar10ag »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^yeha but liek the stock shifter it gets wider as you go down. so i would have to somehow stick it on a lathe and level it out then thread it.
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do what i did and have someone cut it above the ball but below the first bend, then reweld it there. sits nice and low and was a lot cheaper than a short shifter. got es bushings in there too. been lookin into gettin a skunk 2 ****... but it's not on my priority list right now.
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do what i did and have someone cut it above the ball but below the first bend, then reweld it there. sits nice and low and was a lot cheaper than a short shifter. got es bushings in there too. been lookin into gettin a skunk 2 ****... but it's not on my priority list right now.






