Is this normal cam wear?
Dennis:
When I did my valve adjustment at 20,000 they did not look like that. I had small wear abrasions on some of the lobes, but I have never seen those white spots before, nor the rust colored region toward the top of the cam. I need to see better pics.
But mine looked like the sides of the lobes had small scratch lines and that's it.
When I did my valve adjustment at 20,000 they did not look like that. I had small wear abrasions on some of the lobes, but I have never seen those white spots before, nor the rust colored region toward the top of the cam. I need to see better pics.
But mine looked like the sides of the lobes had small scratch lines and that's it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hungsteR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dennis, you should be able to get better shots out of your S85. It's hard to tell because the pics are kind of blurry.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks crystal clear over here?!
It is not really rust but it's got a lighter color to it.
Looks crystal clear over here?!
It is not really rust but it's got a lighter color to it.
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Mobil 1 10w30 for 6k miles, the rest has been Castrol GTX 10w30.
The cams have been like that since 3k miles or so. So basically it's been like that for almost 15k miles but I'm not sure if it's getting worse or staying the same.
The cams have been like that since 3k miles or so. So basically it's been like that for almost 15k miles but I'm not sure if it's getting worse or staying the same.
IF those wear patches are just on one cylinder, I'd check valve lash and possibly replace the LMA on that cyl. I've seen some weid **** happen to cams because of the LMA being shot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1OPTION »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Wear doesn't look normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
looks worse than this fucktard i know who drove his car around without a valve adjustment for almost 60000 miles.
what have you been doing den
looks worse than this fucktard i know who drove his car around without a valve adjustment for almost 60000 miles.
what have you been doing den
How often do you check your oil? Possible you were running low oil for a while.
Definately not normal wear. I have seen cams with way higher mileage (85k+) and there are no signs of wear on them at all. Its a good excuse to get new cams.
Definately not normal wear. I have seen cams with way higher mileage (85k+) and there are no signs of wear on them at all. Its a good excuse to get new cams.
not sure if this helps but i did a valve adjustment at 31k the other wekend and none of my cams had any discoloration or "wear"... they were silvery-smooth as silk.. Get your motor checked out before it gets worse!!
-A
-A
When I had my R I was worried about some wear I saw when I did a valve adjustment at about 56K miles. Although the pictures looked bad, they were only surface blemishes, and couldn't be felt with the "fingernail test."
I would pull the cams out and check the rocker arms just to be safe.
I ran Mobil1 from the forst oil change. And the car was healthy up to when it got stolen at 75K miles. An analysis was performed on the oil at around 70K and it passed with flying colors.
I would also recommend an oil analysis from Blackstone Labs to see if any metal is showing up in the oil.
Here's a couple pics of mine. Again, I wouldn't worry about it unless you can actually feel the scratches.
In that last picture of the rocker arm, the horizontal markings on the VTEC lobe did have a slight depression, so that wasn't good. However, the discoloration is nothing to wory about. The part of the rocker pad that is discolored doesn't even come in contact with anything.
I would pull the cams out and check the rocker arms just to be safe.
I ran Mobil1 from the forst oil change. And the car was healthy up to when it got stolen at 75K miles. An analysis was performed on the oil at around 70K and it passed with flying colors.
I would also recommend an oil analysis from Blackstone Labs to see if any metal is showing up in the oil.
Here's a couple pics of mine. Again, I wouldn't worry about it unless you can actually feel the scratches.
In that last picture of the rocker arm, the horizontal markings on the VTEC lobe did have a slight depression, so that wasn't good. However, the discoloration is nothing to wory about. The part of the rocker pad that is discolored doesn't even come in contact with anything.
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From: ainrofilac, Anti Stickers
hey dennis do your hear faint , little scratching type noises from the motor when you are at idle?.. because I am. I gotta check my oil tomorrow.. shiet im worried/
10w30 is not crap!
Anyways, I have NEVER run low on oil. Check my oil practically everytime I leave the car. Lowest it has gone is in the middle of two dots. Oil is changed every 2000 miles and car is maintained meticulously...
The last time I checked the rocker arms by removing the cams was about 5k miles ago and there was nothing abnormal. The cams have been like this for almost all their life.
Anyways, I have NEVER run low on oil. Check my oil practically everytime I leave the car. Lowest it has gone is in the middle of two dots. Oil is changed every 2000 miles and car is maintained meticulously...
The last time I checked the rocker arms by removing the cams was about 5k miles ago and there was nothing abnormal. The cams have been like this for almost all their life.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10w30 is not crap!
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Sure, the oil as itself is not crap, but it`s not the right thing for such an engine just like the b18 from Honda...
I blew up two cams sets and an engine, did my research and I`m through with that oil question... 10W30 is not a good idea.. Anyway, the cams don`t look good... not too bad but they could look better
10W30 or whatever the manufacturer recommends is only the minimum requirement... It`s up to you to run better stuff..
10W means the oil is liquid enough to get your engine started safe at -25 C°
30 means, the viscosity is "30" at 100 C°... Which is okay for every other engine... But not for a HONDA which sometimes runs at 140-160 C° !! The higher the viscosity at high temperatures, the better your engine internals are protected.. On the other hand, high viscosity means loss of power and loss of money at the gas station (because the physical restriction of the oil is higher). Do you really think, a low viscosity oil like 10W30 protects you high revving/high temp motor well enough when oils with 40,50 and 60 are available instead ? Please think again.
Modified by ITR5874 at 7:43 PM 10/7/2003
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Sure, the oil as itself is not crap, but it`s not the right thing for such an engine just like the b18 from Honda...
I blew up two cams sets and an engine, did my research and I`m through with that oil question... 10W30 is not a good idea.. Anyway, the cams don`t look good... not too bad but they could look better
10W30 or whatever the manufacturer recommends is only the minimum requirement... It`s up to you to run better stuff..
10W means the oil is liquid enough to get your engine started safe at -25 C°
30 means, the viscosity is "30" at 100 C°... Which is okay for every other engine... But not for a HONDA which sometimes runs at 140-160 C° !! The higher the viscosity at high temperatures, the better your engine internals are protected.. On the other hand, high viscosity means loss of power and loss of money at the gas station (because the physical restriction of the oil is higher). Do you really think, a low viscosity oil like 10W30 protects you high revving/high temp motor well enough when oils with 40,50 and 60 are available instead ? Please think again.
Modified by ITR5874 at 7:43 PM 10/7/2003
opinions about oil are like mustangs... every ***** has one... errr... something like that.
there is some truth to what ITR5874 said... but it should really be determined to how you drive the car. if its daily... 10W30 should be fine. if you race it and have it constantly at high temps... a higher viscocity may be needed.
there is some truth to what ITR5874 said... but it should really be determined to how you drive the car. if its daily... 10W30 should be fine. if you race it and have it constantly at high temps... a higher viscocity may be needed.
I suggest you have the spring installed height checked and look at the springs, LMA's, and retainers there. What springs are you running?
My B18C1 rockers on the Todas looked like that. Steve Leitner hooked me up with a set of B16a rockers and we changed the springs and retainers. The valve lash should be redone and I would suggest you change the oil brand.
I'm running on Redline 10W40 now. Very happy with that decision but it is kaching kaching.
My B18C1 rockers on the Todas looked like that. Steve Leitner hooked me up with a set of B16a rockers and we changed the springs and retainers. The valve lash should be redone and I would suggest you change the oil brand.
I'm running on Redline 10W40 now. Very happy with that decision but it is kaching kaching.



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