Like the title says...I don't have a CAI(just stock intake with resonator removed), but I drove through a deep puddle tonight and now my car won't start. It was pouring and I couldn't see **** and drove through the puddle going maybe 10mph. When I hit the deepest part of the puddle water splashed over the hood. It started bogging down and that's when I turned it off. We got out and pushed it through the puddle. I thought the distributor may have just gotten wet so I let it dry for about an hour then tried to start it. It cranked like once, but wouldn't start. Then I tried again and it wouldnt crank, but it made the same sound as when your car is already on and you try to start it.

So right now it's sitting where it died and I have been reading through all the archived threads about hydrolock. My car is lowered an inch and the water was up to the middle of my wheels, but still not high enough to submerge the intake box. I am going to take the spark plugs out and crank it, then go from there.

So, is it possible this is hydrolock even though I don't have a CAI?

 

sounds like hydrolock, but if it was only halfway up the wheels, i'd say no.

how'd it splash onto the hood, if the water was only that high?

 

I was going to say only if you drove into a lake, but it sounds like you did. You may have just shorted out some wiring though. Check the motor for water.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like hydrolock, but if it was only halfway up the wheels, i'd say no.

how'd it splash onto the hood, if the water was only that high?</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I initially hit the "lake" it went over the front of my hood.

 

As stupid as it sounds just check to see if your air filter is wet or if there is any signs that there was water in your intake. At least you could rule out hydrolock and begin searching for the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -743- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As stupid as it sounds just check to see if your air filter is wet or if there is any signs that there was water in your intake. At least you could rule out hydrolock and begin searching for the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did check...the filter and box were wet, but it didn't look like too much water was in the intake piping. That's why I'm worried it could be hydrolock cuz the filter was wet.

 

Thsi should be covered under your car insurance...correct??

Good luck.

 

I just had a close call myself no more than 20 minutes ago. It's raining cats and dogs out here and my car stalled 3 times on the way home. I was scared shitless that I hydrolocked the engine.

 

Well I just got back from dropping off my car at a mechanic. I pulled the plugs and didn't see any water, then cranked it and no water shot out so I don't think it's hydrolock.

A bit of good news...it did start for a split second when I hooked some jumper cables up to it. It went to about 800rpm then just died again and wouldn't start after that. I'm guessing it's something electrical, maybe moisture trapped somewhere. I guess I'll know for sure tomorrow.

 

Try replacing your spark plugs. You could have fouled them out with any water that you did suck into your engine. The exact same thing happened to my friends gsr and after we swapped the plugs it cranked right up.

 

Drain your oil to make sure water isn't in there and take your plugs out and turn the motor by hand and see if anything shoots out. If you still have a warranty on your car, I'd take it to the dealership and have them look at it.

 

Bad news...the mechanic I took it to did a compression test...20 in #1, 40 in #2, 40 in #3, and 40 in #4

I thought about changing the spark plugs before I took it to the mechanic...but would foul plugs cause it to not get compression?

I guess it's time to call Allstate and see if this is going to be covered

 

20, 40, 40, 40????

Do you mean 220, 240, 240, 240.... or is that 2 digit compression Im reading from your post right???

There should not be a variation of more that 5psi total across the board or its a bad test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doc_Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">20, 40, 40, 40????

Do you mean 220, 240, 240, 240.... or is that 2 digit compression Im reading from your post right???

There should not be a variation of more that 5psi total across the board or its a bad test.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You read it right, 2 digit numbers. I'm having it towed to the local Honda dealership because the mechanic I took it to that did the compression test said they wouldn't fix it anyways. I have heard there shouldn't be a variation of 5psi before, so I will tell Honda the numbers the first mechanic gave me and have them test it again.

 

sorry to hear about that....good luck

 

yes, definately get another compression test

 

Update...they did another compression test at Honda. Cylinders 1-3 didn't even give a reading(he said there needs to be at least 10psi for it to register) and cylinder #4 had like 30. They pulled the head and said there were no bent rods and that the short block isn't damaged.

Now the head is going to be machined. What could be causing it to not get compression if it's not the rods? He said it may need new valves, but I don't know what to do from here.

 

Now the head is going to be machined. What could be causing it to not get compression if it's not the rods? He said it may need new valves, but I don't know what to do from here.[/QUOTE]

I couldn't exactly tell you what you should do... I would start by checking your fork thrusters. Sometimes when they are really hot and get cooled very quickly they tend to warp. Also, your PSi tubes are very VERY sensitive. Any form of moisture touching them at anywhere near or below 36 degrees F and the will give out on you (btw they're rather pricey). Good luck to you gsr...

 

FINAL UPDATE: for those that care...
Got my car back today. Ended up being a blown head gasket that was causing it to not get compression. Also, some valves were seized and not closing properly. Total damage: 2k...insurance covered it but I still had to pay my $500 deductible
I'm just glad to have my lude back!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRpower &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FINAL UPDATE: for those that care...
Got my car back today. Ended up being a blown head gasket that was causing it to not get compression. Also, some valves were seized and not closing properly. Total damage: 2k...insurance covered it but I still had to pay my $500 deductible
I'm just glad to have my lude back!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, that's the first time I've heard of insurance paying for a hydrolocked motor. That **** wouldn't fly here in NYC. Good for you!

 

[QUOTE=PhAtBoY Si]

Wow, that's the first time I've heard of insurance paying for a hydrolocked motor. That **** wouldn't fly here in NYC. Good for you!

Obviously, Phatboy si, you are not familiar with head gasket problems. Insurance has always covered any problems i've had with blown gaskets, hydrolic modulators, and EVEN .26mm catylatic modulators (that one took some work). my advice would be for u to look into your insurance carrier, ask them why NYC and TX differ with such coverage... Lemme know what they say!

 

So did you ever talk to your insurance carrier Phatboy si?

 

BTW, it IS possible to hydrolock with a stock intake but you would have to fill up the resonator water reservoir first. If you look at the complete resonator, the reservior is the bottom part (which is detachable) with a hole in the bottom to let out any water.

 

Well Keith, I have to question your judgement on this one . I believe (from experience) that it is not possible to hydrolock w/ a stock intake. The resonator reservoir has nothing to do with hydrolock. When dealing with this annoyance you need to take into consideration 2 factors. #1 extreme heat is a factor in hydrolock. it locks up b/c the engine seizes #2 always check your fluids when you see your temp. gauge rise NO MATTER WHAT. When they drop to low THAT IS what causes hydrolock.

 

Wrong, hydrolock happens because it is IMPOSSIBLE to compress water in a sealed chamber the amount the engine would compress the air. Water just doesn't compress like that, and when the engine tries, and try as it might, it causes bent rods, and all other sorts of screwed up problems. It has absolutely nothing to do with the heat (per say).

Also note, as soon as the opening of your intake goes under the level of the water, your engine *will* hydrolock. It will be drinking the water in thru your intake just like you drink from a straw. As a side note, that hole in the bottom of the box is to allow any water that might have gotten in from a puddle or something to drain out, instead of sitting there. But if the water level is already at that level of the hole or higher, there obviously will not be any draining occuring, infact water may be comming *in* that hole.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HadAN86lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well Keith, I have to question your judgement on this one . I believe (from experience) that it is not possible to hydrolock w/ a stock intake. The resonator reservoir has nothing to do with hydrolock. When dealing with this annoyance you need to take into consideration 2 factors. #1 extreme heat is a factor in hydrolock. it locks up b/c the engine seizes #2 always check your fluids when you see your temp. gauge rise NO MATTER WHAT. When they drop to low THAT IS what causes hydrolock. </TD></TR></TABLE>