Anyone ever had this happen? 3 and 4 work fine, but 1 and 2 don't do jack. This is definitely a new one on me. Does the blower motor have two different windings like a radiator fan motor?

 

Hmm ... more info

I pulled the motor. It's a single winding motor. I got 11.7v with the switch at 1 and 2 and 12.4v with the switch at 3 and 4. ...not sure what's playing up there

 

bah, take the a/c out

 

Blower control resistor pack. The fan switch just selects between the resistors, 2 of which must be fried in your case. Well, I suppose you could check for broken wires somewhere in between...

#5
http://www.acuraautomotivepart...y.jsp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Blower control resistor pack. The fan switch just selects between the resistors, 2 of which must be fried in your case. Well, I suppose you could check for broken wires somewhere in between...

#5
http://www.acuraautomotivepart...y.jsp
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I figured it had to be something like that. I'm pretty sure the wiring is still intact, because I still get current to the blower at 1 and 2 ... just not enough.

Would you happen to know where the resistor pack is? I traced the wires as far as I could without tearing anything apart, and I lost them when they went up over the head unit.

Thanks Jim!

 

Is the site you linked calling it "Relay (4P) (RC-2201)", Jim? Part no. 29715?

 

#5 in this pic, it's a little piece w/ wire-wound resistors, and it goes inside the blower assembly up behind the glovebox. Apparently these resistors get pretty hot, so they are exposed to the airflow from the fan to keep them cool. This was a very common problem on 87-91 Toyota Camrys, so just replace that. It's less than $30 from Carland Acura.

 

i feel your pain bro. same thing's been wrong in my teg for a while now. this was pretty helpful.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wcsinx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the site you linked calling it "Relay (4P) (RC-2201)", Jim? Part no. 29715?</TD></TR></TABLE>Um... I just tried clicking on that link & the car type & year aren't built into the link. Sorry.

For my '95 GS-R its called a 'blower resistor' part #59944. Patrick's got the correct picture.

 

Its a common failure, even on new cars, of all types.

The shunt resistors get blown out due to 'load dumps'. Whenever a big electric motor, like a radiator fan motor gets turned off, you will have a large inductive spike on the battery line. This will momentarily drive the battery voltage line to 30-40 volts, with a large amount of energy.

Shunt resistors are one of the more vulnerable spots on a car, to this problem. MY STD hatch lost position number one. My buddies 2000 Durango we just replaced the shunt resistors, for the same reason.

I'm an electrical engineer, right now I design the control electronics for smart window and sunroof systems. Much of what I do is to protect against such voltage spikes..

 

Thanks Jim, Patrick, & Haggar!

I couldn't see anything that the actual motor leads were running to. I could've sworn they just went straight back behind the center console. I guess I'd better look again.