just wondering if anyone has had any success when switching from itr diff to a quaife? i am thinking mine is giving me trouble,but i really have no way of telling.also,my clutch is acting up and i don't know if it is the diff or the clutch sometimes.i have had people tell me that the itr one has problems above certain power levels,but i am not sure if i believe it or not.i just wanted to know,first of all if anyone had done it,and if it made a difference or not.i just don't want to waste that much money for nothing.

 

A stock lsd diff. can still break just like a peg-leg diff. Maybe the clutches are going out in the diff? You wont have any troubles with the quaife and they are guranteed for life.

 

i'm not really worried about it breaking.last time out at the track,it felt like the clutch slipped really bad in first.on the video,the left tire did not spin at all and someone that was on the other side of the car told me it was spinning like hell.the clutch was apparently slipping on the big end because it feels slower,rpms are really high and the mph has progressively dropped 6mph.i would have thought if it were the diff,it would not be affected in high gear and that the clutch would not have been affected in first gear.hell,maybe it could be both.money has been so tight lately that i can't afford to waste anything.

 

itr diff, is a gear type, not clutch type, still could be on it's way out more than likely it is your clutch having problems, the itr, diff will just break internally. Jason

 

so do you think it will allow one tire to spin?my car has never had good 60' or 1/8 times in relation to the 1/4 times and i have always had it in the back of my mind that it was the diff.maybe i just need to save up and get a quaife and a clutch at the same time(ouch!). that way,maybe i can find someone to buy the itr diff while it is not broken.you mentioned competition clutch to me before.do they have a web page or do you have a phone number?

 

if ur clutch is going out, while ur there id switch out diffs. in the long run ull be much happier . oem=poo over 400

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rOby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if ur clutch is going out, while ur there id switch out diffs. in the long run ull be much happier . oem=poo over 400</TD></TR></TABLE>
i realize that is what i should do.the clutch is gonna be $1100 and the cheapest i have seen the diff for is $800.it's just hard to find that much right now.i just wanted to make sure i didn't spend it if i didn't have to.i really wanted to hear from someone that has done it

 

I was in the same situation, just blew my shifter assembly out last week, so I bit the bullet, beat up a credit card, and put a quaife in it while it was out. I don't like doing stuff twice.

 

I was talking to Mike (motormatix) early in the summer about his tranny (ITR). I was thinking about getting one. Anyway, his itr tranny in his words "blew up". He suspected it was due to the differential. Put a hole through the tranny, the whole nine yards. Im guessing thats why he's now running a B16 tranny, quaife, and scatter shield.

 

If your LSD decides it is done then you very well could be out a tranny. ITR LSD's have been known to grenade, the quaife won't break.

There isn't any need to spend 1100 on a clutch. I don't understand why all of these amateur racers drop so much money on clutches. There are plenty of clutches for half that price range that will hold the power. Of course, I would never pay 1000 bucks for a toda header when I could do i/h/e for that, have money in my pocket, and more power under the hood also....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trbob16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your LSD decides it is done then you very well could be out a tranny. ITR LSD's have been known to grenade, the quaife won't break.

There isn't any need to spend 1100 on a clutch. I don't understand why all of these amateur racers drop so much money on clutches. There are plenty of clutches for half that price range that will hold the power. Of course, I would never pay 1000 bucks for a toda header when I could do i/h/e for that, have money in my pocket, and more power under the hood also....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? Name one... Perhaps you should look at his numbers and the pressure he's currently running versus what he is capable of running before you make assumptions.

 

Let me in on your secret please. I'm saving for a tilton now. I cannot keep a clutchmaster stage 5 or a ACT XX in my car for more than a few passes.

 

Everyone wants to make 500whp, but noone wants to buy the big dawg driveline parts to go with their big dawg power.

If your going to be drag-racing the car hard, a Tilton Clutch, Quaife LSD and decent axles are a must. If you don't get them, your just punishing yourself.

Suprdave

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trbob16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your LSD decides it is done then you very well could be out a tranny. ITR LSD's have been known to grenade, the quaife won't break.

There isn't any need to spend 1100 on a clutch. I don't understand why all of these amateur racers drop so much money on clutches. There are plenty of clutches for half that price range that will hold the power. Of course, I would never pay 1000 bucks for a toda header when I could do i/h/e for that, have money in my pocket, and more power under the hood also....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because these low buck clutches you speak of might have clamping force to hold the power, but can they release well? A twin disc has excelent clamping force, but also releases well, with light pedal pressure. So in turn there is not a lot of pressure on the crank, and the trannies last longer because the clutch allows you to shift better" full release is way easier on syncros, and gears". Buy a cheap clutch, loss some races and wonder why you cant shift the car, 3 cheap clutches add up real quick. I have had the same twin disc in my crx, for 2 seasons, hell the same one will be in it next year, no single disc can do that. Jason

 

there are 2 new twin disk set ups out now.
excedy and somoen else. lol. its in the latest modified mag.

 

My buddy and honda-tech member ugglyasscivic used a stock itr diff for along time and he was pushing over 500whp..it seemed to work fine for him. I just got a
quaife in my teg and its a world of diffrence coming from an open diff.


Modified by tygsr at 8:57 PM 10/14/2003

 

with as many probs as i have with these trannies and **** ill prob end up running something else with a quasiffe soon , mines gotta be beat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone wants to make 500whp, but noone wants to buy the big dawg driveline parts to go with their big dawg power.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's not that i don't want to buy the "big dawg" parts,i just can't afford to buy anything unnecessary right now because i have a new baby and just opened a new shop and i am doing good just to pay the bills.

 

I wasn't referring to you...I was talkin about people in general.

I encounter this sort of thing from time to time.

Suprdave

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littlebluecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Because these low buck clutches you speak of might have clamping force to hold the power, but can they release well? A twin disc has excelent clamping force, but also releases well, with light pedal pressure. So in turn there is not a lot of pressure on the crank, and the trannies last longer because the clutch allows you to shift better" full release is way easier on syncros, and gears". Buy a cheap clutch, loss some races and wonder why you cant shift the car, 3 cheap clutches add up real quick. I have had the same twin disc in my crx, for 2 seasons, hell the same one will be in it next year, no single disc can do that. Jason </TD></TR></TABLE>

whats up jason? I'll be at midnight madness the 24th, not sure if you go out to that but maybe I'll see you out there.

Anyway, the harshness is one of the reasons I prefer sprung discs. Even with that said, many people obviously run unsprung without problems. The pedal pressure you feel and the shock to the drivetrain are not a direct correlation. It is more in the way you as the driver choose to release the clutch. As you said, any number of clutches can hold X hp. The harshness in grabbing that power is mostly in the type of release, ie slight slip or complete 8k drop. ...

I had a longer reply typed up but got lazy and just deleted it b/c I didn't want to finish. In the end, it just isn't worth it to me to pay 4 figures for a new clutch. I got my dual diaphram setup which many people think is crap and it is working just fine so far. I'll see how it does next season with some more power, but even if I eat flywheels every 10k it would take me 5 or so years before I bought enough cheap clutches to afford one tilton/etc.

Twin disk will hold more power at a similar clamping pressure, but for me my clutch holds the power and cross my fingers the drivetrain is so far so good. I didn't skimp on any parts, always went for the best, but when it came to the clutch I just couldn't justify the fact that I could have an entire spare tranny and clutch setup for the cost of a "good" clutch.

 

Name one what? A person with an ITR diff that had problems or someone making 450whp with a clutch that cost under 1000 bucks. There are a few guys locally to me, let alone across the country, that are in those categories.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trbob16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Name one what? A person with an ITR diff that had problems or someone making 450whp with a clutch that cost under 1000 bucks. There are a few guys locally to me, let alone across the country, that are in those categories.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I assume this was intended for me even though you haven't figured out the quote button yet...

I meant name a cheap clutch that will perform to the same specs as a high-end twin disk. You could make 1000hp and have a Napa special clutch BUT that doesn't mean it's gonna work.

In your previous post, you called a respected tuner known throughout the southeast, with his own shop an amature racer and you didn't have a clue. Did you see the part about the 449hp with 300+ lbs tq in his Signature? He Runs 11.4 1/4 mile times on 26" MT slicks... Could that put SLIGHTLY more pressure on his clutch than he wants to risk with an Autozone clutch?

Do a little background check before you assume someone isn't a fountain of knowledge such as yourself...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nocturnal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In your previous post, you called a respected tuner known throughout the southeast, with his own shop an amature racer and you didn't have a clue. Did you see the part about the 449hp with 300+ lbs tq in his Signature? He Runs 11.4 1/4 mile times on 26" MT slicks... Could that put SLIGHTLY more pressure on his clutch than he wants to risk with an Autozone clutch?

Do a little background check before you assume someone isn't a fountain of knowledge such as yourself... </TD></TR></TABLE>

So many newbies are so fast to start flaming. First off, I didn't call him an amateur racer, I said that many amateur racers are going out and buying very expensive clutches. Do you know what an amateur racer is? Considering you aren't even close to spelling it correctly I'm going to go ahead and assume you don't. I don't know turbotypeR personally, but out of all of the members on this board there are probably under a dozen non-amateur racers.

Generally, amateur's are regarded as people that pursue something for the sport of it rather than money. You can compete for money, but it isn't the only reason in you're in it. I consider anyone that doesn't have their hotels, gas, and some funding behind their car an amateur.

He makes 450whp and runs mid 11's. Yes, it can cause a harsher engagement using a non twin-disc setup. Once the power is being held though, its being held regardless of it is an autozone clutch, which I never insinuated he is running, or an excedy. Anyway I'm done with replying to you.

Back to what I originally said. I think it would be a very good idea to go to a quaife, especially considering you have a fair amount spent already. On the clutch, leave it up to you. There are many people making big horsepower with varying clutches. The best bet is to try to drive different people's cars and see what you like, even if they are way less power than you make.

Do you even know what a twin disc setup is?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trbob16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats up jason? I'll be at midnight madness the 24th, not sure if you go out to that but maybe I'll see you out there.

Anyway, the harshness is one of the reasons I prefer sprung discs. Even with that said, many people obviously run unsprung without problems. The pedal pressure you feel and the shock to the drivetrain are not a direct correlation. It is more in the way you as the driver choose to release the clutch. As you said, any number of clutches can hold X hp. The harshness in grabbing that power is mostly in the type of release, ie slight slip or complete 8k drop. ...

I had a longer reply typed up but got lazy and just deleted it b/c I didn't want to finish. In the end, it just isn't worth it to me to pay 4 figures for a new clutch. I got my dual diaphram setup which many people think is crap and it is working just fine so far. I'll see how it does next season with some more power, but even if I eat flywheels every 10k it would take me 5 or so years before I bought enough cheap clutches to afford one tilton/etc.

Twin disk will hold more power at a similar clamping pressure, but for me my clutch holds the power and cross my fingers the drivetrain is so far so good. I didn't skimp on any parts, always went for the best, but when it came to the clutch I just couldn't justify the fact that I could have an entire spare tranny and clutch setup for the cost of a "good" clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use a twin disc cause it saves trannies, it realses better than any single disc clutch I have tried, it is very easy on parts, it wont forgive the type that dumps the clutch cause it grabs so hard, but any clutch with extreme clamping force will do that. Trust me you get a twin disc it will be the last clutch you buy, and you might have one tranny the whole year. Jason

 

300 whp in this day of age is baby power. it doesn't make sense to run anything but a twin disc if you make big power. trying to save 900 or so dollars by running a cheap clutch can cost you a block & tranny if the cheap clutches straps let loose. i used to see that at the track all the time when the hot rod class cars were running the same ****. take a lesson from history, learn from other peoples setbacks.