How does it work...what part does the cable pull on to activate it? Is there some kind of drum inside the disk, or does it somehow pull the caliper or what?

reason I ask...this morning, after driving to school, I set my e-brake as usual, but it fell right back down. I tried a few more times, then it finally clicked up and stayed. Also, I was curious what part I am wearing when I attempt to drift.

Thanks for the help, searched but couldn't find!

Kevin

 

it attaches to a lever that pushes the brakes against the drums... I think your cable needs to be adjusted. theres a nut right there where you pull the brake up.. just wind it up that should help.

-x m d

 

Thanks for replying...I forgot to mention that I have a '90 CRX Si which come with rear disks. Is the e-brake actually another drum in the hub or the hat of the disk?

 

is the parking brake in rear-disk cars actuated by a cam that pushes the piston? That is the interpretation I took from my helms. Hard to tell, though...could be a different situation.

Replys appreciated!

kev

 

the cable pulls a cam on the caliper wich pushes the caliper closed... It aplies the brakes like you would normally but without the hydrolics... When you "attempt to drift" (why you would do this in a FWD car is beyond me) It wears the par and rotor like normal brakeing would...

 

people try to drift in FF cars because they cant do it silly.......oh, and its fun...try it

 

ahh, thanks! Just what I needed.

I've tried drifting twice, got the rear wheels to loose traction once, and thought the experience was lame both times. Unless I was doing something wrong the one time the tires did skid, it is very stupid...they just kinda screached along.

I thought it might be interesting drifting in a FWD car, but I was wrong.

 

its not a cam that pushes the rear caliper piston, its a screw (not like a bolt, more like a corkscrew) to be exact. but your experience of it immediately dropping after setting the parking brake was probably the button being stuck in the open position that didnt lock the ratchet mechanism on the lever itself, nothing to do with the caliper. and its your choice of acting like a goof trying to get the rear end to dangerously come out and damage yourself, car, or someone else.

 

About drum e-brakes:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake3.htm

About disc e-brakes:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/disc-brake3.htm

Drum e-brakes tend to hold better than discs.

 

So it is like a screw where, say, one turn would move the thing against it 1"...a steep thread. That makes sense.

I was thinking about it, and I bet I did look like a goof when I was doing that...anyway, I don't want to smash my car, or hurt any one/thing else, so I promiss to not do it again.

Anyway, I guess I'll have to take a look at the ratcheting mechanism part...or not...it was a cold day [below freezing if I recall...car was frosty], and the car is snatched from the jaws of salt [stored for the winter], so as long as it works in the summer, I'll be happy!

Thanks for the links, that cleared some stuff up too. Now I won't have to crawl under my car to take a look. I never thought about which e-brake would hold better, but it makes sense that the drum would because of more contact area.

Thanks for all the helpful replies, guys!

Kev

 

Here's a tip for using the ebrake. Common senses tells us that the tighter you adjust the cable the more the pads will grip when you pull up that lever and with less travel. However that is not really true. The ebrake grips the best with the cable tightened about halfway. The best way to measure it is so that it stops once the lever is at about 2/3 of its possible travel.

I once adjusted mine all the way and it would no longer hold my car. I thought something was wrong with my caliper. So for the longest time I had no parking brake. Than someone informed me of how half way is better than all the way. So I did that and magically my ebrake worked again. And I've had no problems since.

I also noticed that the ebrake on the drums was able to lock up the rear wheels much easier than the disc ones do.

 

Hmm, that is pretty strange, I can't imagine why, since the same amount of force should be pulling on the cable...unless it is some kind of progressive leverage mechanism...

Thanks for the tip, I had adjusting it in the back of my mind, so I'm glad I saw this...

I don't really know what all the way up is, so I dunno where 2/3 is either... Do you have an estimate of how many clicks until it is fully engaged?

Just trying to find out what works. Thanks again for the tip!

Kevin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXSi90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't really know what all the way up is, so I dunno where 2/3 is either... Do you have an estimate of how many clicks until it is fully engaged?

Just trying to find out what works. Thanks again for the tip!

Kevin</TD></TR></TABLE>
the manual I have says 6-10 clicks.