Need help spending money
I need some help. I have roughly 1100 dollars for some new toys and I really don't know what to buy next. I own a 2001 PY Type R. The only mods include the following: APEX VTEC controller, APEX NI Cat back exauhst, and an AEM CAI. I want to buy something that is the most bang for the buck. I was thinking about a header, cams, or maybe even an ECU upgrade. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Modified by b18c5dc2 at 1:36 PM 9/30/2003
Modified by b18c5dc2 at 1:36 PM 9/30/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c1_powered_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a nice header is a good upgrade. </TD></TR></TABLE>
some tuning afterwards wouldn't hurt
some tuning afterwards wouldn't hurt
What's your goal?
That should be your #1 deciding factor to determining what your plan to spend Any money will be.
Probably sounds boring and mature, but it is the best way to save your money instead of wasting it several times over on mods that don't produce, or don't fit into your plan. True the market is still hot for many "quality" mods as for resale but, it is many times a PITA to do business this way.
So what do you want to do and what do you want out of the car? IE:
Daily,
Autocross,
Track,
Drag,
Show,
Any combination of the above but, certainly list what is more important to least with Street racing not being a glimmer of a thought.
Plan well, purchase wisely = happy and satisfied with your results the first time, or first few times. Take it from those who've already been there/did that. Buying things twice or three times to get it right or where you want to be is tedious and not economical.
I personally think an ATS FD and LF FW are the best first upgrades almost regardless of what you ultimately plan to do Even before a Header or any power upgrades but, this may Not fit into your plan.
How close is this guy to Reid?
That should be your #1 deciding factor to determining what your plan to spend Any money will be.
Probably sounds boring and mature, but it is the best way to save your money instead of wasting it several times over on mods that don't produce, or don't fit into your plan. True the market is still hot for many "quality" mods as for resale but, it is many times a PITA to do business this way.
So what do you want to do and what do you want out of the car? IE:
Daily,
Autocross,
Track,
Drag,
Show,
Any combination of the above but, certainly list what is more important to least with Street racing not being a glimmer of a thought.
Plan well, purchase wisely = happy and satisfied with your results the first time, or first few times. Take it from those who've already been there/did that. Buying things twice or three times to get it right or where you want to be is tedious and not economical.
I personally think an ATS FD and LF FW are the best first upgrades almost regardless of what you ultimately plan to do Even before a Header or any power upgrades but, this may Not fit into your plan.
How close is this guy to Reid?
I know I screwed up. I tried to make the post at work and was in a hurry. The whole time walking out to the aircraft I had to work on, I was thinking how stupid I was for spelling VTEC like that. Anyway, the only access I have to a computer is here at work, so I really can't spend alot of time on it to use the search. The only reason I'm asking this question is because I'm new to modifying honda's, this is my first one. I built small block chevy's before this for 14 years, I've built everything from 500 horse 350's to 750 horse 406 strokers - I know what mods work on small block bowties, I don't know if those same mods (headers, cam, bigger throttle body, intake manifold) work the same on a 4 banger. The only reason I say this is because when I installed my N1 cat back, I felt no difference but when I installed a Flowmaster system with a X pipe on my friends 88 5.0 Mustang there was an immediate difference. I'm just looking for some simple answers from some people that have alot of experience with these motors. I don't have hours to use the search and would really appreciate some advice. I don't want to waste my money on stuff that makes no difference on my car, I want to buy **** that works and makes the car faster.
Thank you, my plans for the car are daily driver and some drag strip action. I would like the car to be a high 13 second ride - enough to embarass a few stock Mustang GT and Z28 owners. This car is a blast to drive and the performance is very impressive, I just want a little more like I said. I have my "fast" car sitting in my garage for dedicated drag racing it's a 69 Camaro with a 400 small block stroked out to a 427. It pushes about 800hp and the car is nowhere near a daily driver. The Type R is my daily driver, I want to keep it reliable but just a little faster.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c5dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thank you, my plans for the car are daily driver and some drag strip action. I would like the car to be a high 13 second ride - enough to embarass a few stock Mustang GT and Z28 owners. This car is a blast to drive and the performance is very impressive, I just want a little more like I said. I have my "fast" car sitting in my garage for dedicated drag racing it's a 69 Camaro with a 400 small block stroked out to a 427. It pushes about 800hp and the car is nowhere near a daily driver. The Type R is my daily driver, I want to keep it reliable but just a little faster. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Honest answer and relatively redundant because this topic is typical of newer R owners that aren't fully aware of the cars potential bone stock, and that it is and has been covered many times before (but, for your benefit since you list limited net access):
You already have the 1/4 mile monster, now you own an refined track (as in road course) car. Take the R to a local Autocross or HPDE and learn what it is capable of Before you do Any more mods. Trust me, you will be surprised.
I just came back from doing an Autocross in a healthy 89 Mustang 5.0 and although this car rips in a straight line, it is a beast to manhandle and make perform in any sort of turn or switchback or slalom. I totally respect it and domestic muscle, their low end torque and high power are addictive but, the R is like a fine tuned instrument that is so well balanced and easy in comparison to drive and perform well in.
So what I am trying to convey is that the R though it can be built to be a straight line performer, is many times more expensive and more difficult to do so and since you already have that type of car, why not minimize any mods and variables to the R and learn to use it to it's utmost Before messing with it's balance.
The street is Nowhere near the R's limits, and many times the R capabilities will surpass the owners limits.
Just FYI, for low 13's you'd be in for about a minimum of $5,000 in mods depending on if you plan to keep it NA or go FI.
A good header will provide more apparent gains, but combined with a good catback and HF cat or testpipe and some tuning, and you will see better gains.
The FD is the best mod in my limited experience and opinion.
Take it to an autocross or roadcourse, you'll be glad you did
Good luck
Modified by 1GreyTeg at 10:29 AM 9/30/2003
Honest answer and relatively redundant because this topic is typical of newer R owners that aren't fully aware of the cars potential bone stock, and that it is and has been covered many times before (but, for your benefit since you list limited net access):
You already have the 1/4 mile monster, now you own an refined track (as in road course) car. Take the R to a local Autocross or HPDE and learn what it is capable of Before you do Any more mods. Trust me, you will be surprised.
I just came back from doing an Autocross in a healthy 89 Mustang 5.0 and although this car rips in a straight line, it is a beast to manhandle and make perform in any sort of turn or switchback or slalom. I totally respect it and domestic muscle, their low end torque and high power are addictive but, the R is like a fine tuned instrument that is so well balanced and easy in comparison to drive and perform well in.
So what I am trying to convey is that the R though it can be built to be a straight line performer, is many times more expensive and more difficult to do so and since you already have that type of car, why not minimize any mods and variables to the R and learn to use it to it's utmost Before messing with it's balance.
The street is Nowhere near the R's limits, and many times the R capabilities will surpass the owners limits.
Just FYI, for low 13's you'd be in for about a minimum of $5,000 in mods depending on if you plan to keep it NA or go FI.
A good header will provide more apparent gains, but combined with a good catback and HF cat or testpipe and some tuning, and you will see better gains.
The FD is the best mod in my limited experience and opinion.
Take it to an autocross or roadcourse, you'll be glad you did
Good luck
Modified by 1GreyTeg at 10:29 AM 9/30/2003
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