What kind of boost guages do yall use?
Im thinking about getting one of the Auto Meter blower pressure guages that reads from 0-60psi. Does anyone else use this particular guage or what do you use?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordfreak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a POS 60mm greddy warning gauge. when it powers up the needle isn't even at zero. it's about a notch off</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine doesn't read accurately any more, its always .2BAR too high under full boost... It's consistent, just inaccurate.
Mine doesn't read accurately any more, its always .2BAR too high under full boost... It's consistent, just inaccurate.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mskibbz-T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You get what you pay for... I use the Greddy 60mm Warning Boost gauge, its alright, I would have gone with DEFI if I could do it over.</TD></TR></TABLE>
????? iF AUTOMETERS were soooo bad, why would all the pros use them ? I think with as much mooney thay have invested in there cars they would trust nothing but the best.
????? iF AUTOMETERS were soooo bad, why would all the pros use them ? I think with as much mooney thay have invested in there cars they would trust nothing but the best.
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Not another defend/flame Autometer thread... Augh
My Autometer fuel pressure gauge almost caught fire, when I replaced it with a Greddy rauge the rear of the Autometer gauge was melted and browning. Their accuracy is hit and miss, some are accurate off the shelf while others are not. I'd rather pay more for something that is more likely to be accurate... and something that won't cause a fire
To each his own, I won't ever buy another Autometer product, but that is just because of my personal experience with their products.
My Autometer fuel pressure gauge almost caught fire, when I replaced it with a Greddy rauge the rear of the Autometer gauge was melted and browning. Their accuracy is hit and miss, some are accurate off the shelf while others are not. I'd rather pay more for something that is more likely to be accurate... and something that won't cause a fire
To each his own, I won't ever buy another Autometer product, but that is just because of my personal experience with their products.
well not to flame on anyone but there is a thing called O.E operator error. or installation error. sounds to me like you were using a mechanical fuel gauge and had a fuel line goping to the back of your gauge without proper precautions when you shoud have been using a electrical fuel gauge with a sending unit. hell they even have sendig units that will let you use water for the signal so you dont bring any fuel lines into the cabin. i dotn think yuo should blame autometer for your mishap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well not to flame on anyone but there is a thing called O.E operator error. or installation error. sounds to me like you were using a mechanical fuel gauge and had a fuel line goping to the back of your gauge without proper precautions when you shoud have been using a electrical fuel gauge with a sending unit. hell they even have sendig units that will let you use water for the signal so you dont bring any fuel lines into the cabin. i dotn think yuo should blame autometer for your mishap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry to ruin your Nancy Drew explanation of my horrendous experience with Autometer buddy
I was running the 0-100 PSI electrical fuel pressure gauge w/ the sending unit in the bay... I have never run any aftermarket mechanical gauges. It was an electrical issue contained within the gauge itself, not a fuel issue, so yes it was entirely the gauge's fault. The rear gauge housing was bubbling outwards and turning a toasted color when I removed it. I think the backlit bulb inside was rubbing against the plastic and melting it. All I know is, that was shitty quality control, I have never experienced anything like that with any other electrical part in my car. Maybe it was a complete fluke, but I doubt many of you would run Autometer gauges if that happened to you. I'm happy for you if your Autometer gauges are working great
Mine didn't, so they get a fat
from me.
Sorry to ruin your Nancy Drew explanation of my horrendous experience with Autometer buddy
I was running the 0-100 PSI electrical fuel pressure gauge w/ the sending unit in the bay... I have never run any aftermarket mechanical gauges. It was an electrical issue contained within the gauge itself, not a fuel issue, so yes it was entirely the gauge's fault. The rear gauge housing was bubbling outwards and turning a toasted color when I removed it. I think the backlit bulb inside was rubbing against the plastic and melting it. All I know is, that was shitty quality control, I have never experienced anything like that with any other electrical part in my car. Maybe it was a complete fluke, but I doubt many of you would run Autometer gauges if that happened to you. I'm happy for you if your Autometer gauges are working great
Mine didn't, so they get a fat
from me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
????? iF AUTOMETERS were soooo bad, why would all the pros use them ? I think with as much mooney thay have invested in there cars they would trust nothing but the best. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Autometer here too! I haven't had 1 problem. It only cost me $20 It would have been free if i won the game of paper-rock-scissors.
????? iF AUTOMETERS were soooo bad, why would all the pros use them ? I think with as much mooney thay have invested in there cars they would trust nothing but the best. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Autometer here too! I haven't had 1 problem. It only cost me $20 It would have been free if i won the game of paper-rock-scissors.
I have my autometer... it's kind of annoying that it reads consistently +2 lbs. It never actually points to zero, even when the car is off. Sits right around 1~1.5. But, it's consistent....
I'm kinda mad about it, I thought autometers were awesome when I picked them out
I'm kinda mad about it, I thought autometers were awesome when I picked them out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running greddy, Been accurate to a "t" so far
</TD></TR></TABLE>
my greddy b-spec 2 boost controller and apex-i boost gauge both monitor boost for me...
</TD></TR></TABLE>my greddy b-spec 2 boost controller and apex-i boost gauge both monitor boost for me...
never had any problems with my autometer gauges. Cobalts > all
It's a few instances like the above that ALOT of people hop on the "Honda-tech autometer bashing bandwagon"...god dam thats a long title
like stated above why would thousands upon thousands of racers use autometer if they werent good.
It's a few instances like the above that ALOT of people hop on the "Honda-tech autometer bashing bandwagon"...god dam thats a long title
like stated above why would thousands upon thousands of racers use autometer if they werent good.
Apex'i with warning, 30 mem/playback, and peak. Same with EGT.
Check this out, when I first installed them the boost sensor line hit a little interferance and topped out, made for a nice pic though, 2.5 bar mmmmmm...
And a very blurry pic of my entire setup:
Check this out, when I first installed them the boost sensor line hit a little interferance and topped out, made for a nice pic though, 2.5 bar mmmmmm...
And a very blurry pic of my entire setup:
Defi-Link that reads in PSI. I love it. More accurate than my old A'PEXi gauge.....but then again that was mechanical and this one's electric.



