Modified by student_n1 at 5:08 PM 1/30/2005

 

anyone??

 

figured it would make the car rip.....im just about to install the same thing......i think i might feel somethin because i got I/H/E .....so i guess that would tie in with that

just wondering what the others will say FREE BUMP

 

its the same as an itr mani........ should notice a difference but not huge

 

so there is absolutely no difference between an ITR manifold and the Skunk2 Manifold?

 

... the skunk2 is very diffrent than a itr im. goto there website and call them up.

 

you are going to need a different ecu that doesnt look for the butterflies. when i had a type r motor in my hatch i was using a gsr ecu until my jun ecu came in and the car did not pull at all untill around 5600 rpms and that is when th ecu looks for butterflies to open. as soon as i put the jun ecu in my car the motor pulled strong all the way from 0-9000 rpms, until boom haha dam ecus with no redline and my dumbass driving. but anywho thats another story. sell that p72 ecu and get yourself a chipped ecu, you will notice a different there.

 

yeah i got a p72 my car doesnt start pulling until 5500....but **** i can hardly feel the diff...when i put the manifold one...

 

If the Skunk2 manifold was so good, wouldn't the Skunk2 racecar use it?

The fastest all motor Honda (ericks racing) uses a polished GSR manifold, no SKunk2 bullshit there.

If you're gonna spend $200+ on a manifold, get the AEBS one. Proven hp for only $160. Made 15 hp on a stock Type R.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KURRRWA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the Skunk2 manifold was so good, wouldn't the Skunk2 racecar use it?

The fastest all motor Honda (ericks racing) uses a polished GSR manifold, no SKunk2 bullshit there.

If you're gonna spend $200+ on a manifold, get the AEBS one. Proven hp for only $160. Made 15 hp on a stock Type R.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

It did eh? Last dynos i saw of the aebs manifold gained like 2-3hp maybe. Its all about who dynos it, when, where, what the planets alignments are.....

ITR forum is a good place to hunt down those dyno plot threads.

 

I would just get the aebs. i've seen dynos of that one and the skunk2 and i think I like the aebs better.

 

The aebs would be my first choice too, I think Ivans got it right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are going to need a different ecu that doesnt look for the butterflies. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it doesn't 'look' for the butterfly's.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when i had a type r motor in my hatch i was using a gsr ecu until my jun ecu came in and the car did not pull at all untill around 5600 rpms and that is when th ecu looks for butterflies to open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats because r cams need a higher vtec x-over. :shakes head:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as soon as i put the jun ecu in my car the motor pulled strong all the way from 0-9000 rpms, until boom haha dam ecus with no redline and my dumbass driving. but anywho thats another story. sell that p72 ecu and get yourself a chipped ecu, you will notice a different there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah if he gets a chipped ecu with a 4400 vtec cross over. I have the skunk2 mani on my gs-r and I do notice a big difference compared to the stock intake mani. I gained a lot more top end with it. I put the stock mani on for the ref and my car felt like **** up high.


now for the ecu's... I tried the mugen program with the 9200 rev limit, 5700 x-over and it was okay at first. Heck it was the only ecu program I had to work with. Then I tried the Jun, J's and RoaringTurtles custom J's chip for gs-r's. RoaringTurtles chip was the one that felt good over all. My car had midrange again and top end.

 

I put my manifold on before cams and noticed more pull at the top end, around 5500 and up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KURRRWA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the Skunk2 manifold was so good, wouldn't the Skunk2 racecar use it?
</TD></TR></TABLE> they were using it before they went with ITB's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The fastest all motor Honda (ericks racing) uses a polished GSR manifold, no SKunk2 bullshit there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also the manifold they use is far from stock. Very far from stock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you're gonna spend $200+ on a manifold, get the AEBS one. Proven hp for only $160. Made 15 hp on a stock Type R.

</TD></TR></TABLE>dyno graphs please... not the homemade kinds*wink*

 

skunk2 desined their mani after the itr , if you compare the 2 there very similar....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURSpoonEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">skunk2 desined their mani after the itr , if you compare the 2 there very similar....</TD></TR></TABLE>
duh

 

i like my skunk manifold. it eliminates the stupid dual stage intake manifold and is very good with aftermarket cams or turbo apps.

you will want to raise the vtec x-over from 4400 to above 5k though. or it will bog for the first few humdred rpms

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeremyEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you will want to raise the vtec x-over from 4400 to above 5k though. or it will bog for the first few humdred rpms</TD></TR></TABLE>

only raise the vtec x-over if you change your cams. vtec x-over has nothing to do with the intake mani. if you raise the x-over with stock gs-r cams, you will lose a lot of mid range power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ByronC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

only raise the vtec x-over if you change your cams. vtec x-over has nothing to do with the intake mani. if you raise the x-over with stock gs-r cams, you will lose a lot of mid range power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the mid-range is lost when you disable the butterfly system, it restricts the amount of airflow until a higher rpm.

if you dont have the dual stage intake anymore and you still have your vtec point the same, you will not have the torque needed for the larger profile cam lobe

see what im saying, you dont need the bigger cam profile till higher with more air being flowed. hope you can understand, im having a tough time tring to explain it.

 

a dyno chart would make it easy to see. if anyone has one for a c1 with stock manifold and one with a skunk2 and stock cams i could explain better.

 

thats what I thought too. but I tried it. RoaringTurtle has the same set up as me and he has dyno plots to prove it. You lose mid range with a high vtec x-over and stock gs-r cams.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=541536

for those lazy to click... and yes he has a skunk2 mani... I installed it.

 

i stand corrected

thanks for the chart. looks like i need to lower my vtec to around 4400 from the 5200 its at currently.

i dont think it will make a difference 1/4 mile wise since i can keep it in vtec the whole time, but for the street it should help out.

thanks again