"Suspension Kits" for CRX/EF???
i am NOT looking for a set of shocks and a set of springs. i want a MATCHED set, meaning i would like to know who makes a SHORTER shock to compliment the shorter springs so the ******* dont spew there oilly inerrs all over my suspenion.
i have Tokico (non-adj) on my car now with H&R Race springs, i think 3 of the shocks are toasted, rides ****** horrible, etc.
so basicly i think my question is who makes a shock for the CRX/EF that is MADE FOR A LOWERING SPRING???? btw i dont have 1200bucks so i wont be buying a set of TIEN coilovers
thanks!
i have Tokico (non-adj) on my car now with H&R Race springs, i think 3 of the shocks are toasted, rides ****** horrible, etc.
so basicly i think my question is who makes a shock for the CRX/EF that is MADE FOR A LOWERING SPRING???? btw i dont have 1200bucks so i wont be buying a set of TIEN coilovers
thanks!
umm, NOT what im looking for. i want a shorter shock, not a "aftermarket replacement" shock...
i have been looking all over, H&R makes a kit for a shitload of cars.....except the CRX, cuz it seems 90% of CRX/EF owners are ricers and dont give a **** about the accual handleing of a car...(before you flame me on that, look around, not at Honda-tech but the retards romming the streets of northern seattle area and most likely your town too).
Tokico apears to make a set for the CRX/EF but says nothing about weather they are stock replacement shocks or a shorter combo.
i also dont want a sleeve 'coilover' kit
i have been looking all over, H&R makes a kit for a shitload of cars.....except the CRX, cuz it seems 90% of CRX/EF owners are ricers and dont give a **** about the accual handleing of a car...(before you flame me on that, look around, not at Honda-tech but the retards romming the streets of northern seattle area and most likely your town too).
Tokico apears to make a set for the CRX/EF but says nothing about weather they are stock replacement shocks or a shorter combo.
i also dont want a sleeve 'coilover' kit
Search about the 88-89 Accord. There is a bunch of info. The shock is shorter.
was told i would have to run sleeved coilovers to use that setup...
was told i would have to run sleeved coilovers to use that setup...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d357r0y »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Koni/Neuspeed SP3s.. 20mm shorter rod specifically for lowered cars
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No the Koni Neuspeed edition doesn't help handling as its just the rod that is shorter the actual body is the same length as the regular koni which doesn't help handleing at all.....waste of money.
</TD></TR></TABLE>No the Koni Neuspeed edition doesn't help handling as its just the rod that is shorter the actual body is the same length as the regular koni which doesn't help handleing at all.....waste of money.
I've never seen any shortened shock sets for the CRX. Closest thing would be the Accord shocks that were mentioned, but those DO require the adjustable spring setup, otherwise the front will end up 1" lower than it should be.
Sounds like you might be stuck with the stuff the rest of us use. Nobody really has any problems with Koni shocks at all, even with GC coilovers up to 500lb springs...
What exactly do you want them for? Improved performance, durability I'd imagine... If they were available, I'm sure they would be pretty damn popular, but also pretty pricey.
Alex
Sounds like you might be stuck with the stuff the rest of us use. Nobody really has any problems with Koni shocks at all, even with GC coilovers up to 500lb springs...
What exactly do you want them for? Improved performance, durability I'd imagine... If they were available, I'm sure they would be pretty damn popular, but also pretty pricey.
Alex
You need a full bodied coilover kit then. Something like Tein, BuddyClub, etc. I know you said you don't have the money, but that's about the only thing that will work extremely well given what you requested.
However, there is no reason that a Koni could not handle some coilover sleeves as long as you don't go super radical on how low you run your car.
However, there is no reason that a Koni could not handle some coilover sleeves as long as you don't go super radical on how low you run your car.
Way out there probably not possable idea:
you could try making your own. Get whatever shocks you want then tap them so the threads go further, and cut the top off. The shaft will be shorter, so it will require a spring compressor to get the springs on, but you will have more travel.
-Dustin
you could try making your own. Get whatever shocks you want then tap them so the threads go further, and cut the top off. The shaft will be shorter, so it will require a spring compressor to get the springs on, but you will have more travel.
-Dustin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Way out there probably not possable idea:
you could try making your own. Get whatever shocks you want then tap them so the threads go further, and cut the top off. The shaft will be shorter, so it will require a spring compressor to get the springs on, but you will have more travel.
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm....that actually sounds like it'll work....anyone have any input?
you could try making your own. Get whatever shocks you want then tap them so the threads go further, and cut the top off. The shaft will be shorter, so it will require a spring compressor to get the springs on, but you will have more travel.
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm....that actually sounds like it'll work....anyone have any input?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Way out there probably not possable idea:
you could try making your own. Get whatever shocks you want then tap them so the threads go further, and cut the top off. The shaft will be shorter, so it will require a spring compressor to get the springs on, but you will have more travel.
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civicdx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No the Koni Neuspeed edition doesn't help handling as its just the rod that is shorter the actual body is the same length as the regular koni which doesn't help handleing at all.....waste of money.
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Again...just pointing out that a shorter rod doesn't give you travel...is the shorter body that gives you travel.
Just buy koni yellows and if you want them shorter move the fork up the body.
you could try making your own. Get whatever shocks you want then tap them so the threads go further, and cut the top off. The shaft will be shorter, so it will require a spring compressor to get the springs on, but you will have more travel.
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civicdx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No the Koni Neuspeed edition doesn't help handling as its just the rod that is shorter the actual body is the same length as the regular koni which doesn't help handleing at all.....waste of money.
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Again...just pointing out that a shorter rod doesn't give you travel...is the shorter body that gives you travel.
Just buy koni yellows and if you want them shorter move the fork up the body.
Good, Bad…I'm the one with the gun
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 2
From: Trapped in time, Surrounded by evil, Low on gas
progress, tein, JIC magic, SRR, Tokico, etc. all make some kind of full coilover systems for 88-91 CRX/civic.
stan
stan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again...just pointing out that a shorter rod doesn't give you travel...is the shorter body that gives you travel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am right, and I have a picture:

No offense meant, but as you can see, with my way you get more bump travel which is the important part of a smooth ride. The piston moves thorough the area of the shock it was designed to and is less likely to bottom out. I do not see how you could be right from my picture, if you know of a way draw it. Maybe you meant something other than what you wrote, IDK.
-Dustin
I am right, and I have a picture:

No offense meant, but as you can see, with my way you get more bump travel which is the important part of a smooth ride. The piston moves thorough the area of the shock it was designed to and is less likely to bottom out. I do not see how you could be right from my picture, if you know of a way draw it. Maybe you meant something other than what you wrote, IDK.
-Dustin
Look for the Spax suspension kit. NOPI sells them. I've looked for reviews, and only found a couple posts about it with minimal information. Might be worth a shot though
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am right, and I have a picture:
[No offense meant, but as you can see, with my way you get more bump travel which is the important part of a smooth ride. The piston moves thorough the area of the shock it was designed to and is less likely to bottom out. I do not see how you could be right from my picture, if you know of a way draw it. Maybe you meant something other than what you wrote, IDK.
-Dustin
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UHHHHMMM YEAAAHH OOOK, if you insist...Heres are pic for you(no offense)
I am right, and I have a picture:
[No offense meant, but as you can see, with my way you get more bump travel which is the important part of a smooth ride. The piston moves thorough the area of the shock it was designed to and is less likely to bottom out. I do not see how you could be right from my picture, if you know of a way draw it. Maybe you meant something other than what you wrote, IDK.
-Dustin
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UHHHHMMM YEAAAHH OOOK, if you insist...Heres are pic for you(no offense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am right, and I have a picture:

No offense meant, but as you can see, with my way you get more bump travel which is the important part of a smooth ride. The piston moves thorough the area of the shock it was designed to and is less likely to bottom out. I do not see how you could be right from my picture, if you know of a way draw it. Maybe you meant something other than what you wrote, IDK.
-Dustin
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That's not a good demonstration of how a shorter rod gives you more suspension travel. Again, all a shorter rod does is not allow as much suspension droop. So when the car lifts a wheel in the corner (or when you jack it up), the suspenion will not droop as much because the shorter rod is holding it up. This in no way has to do with actual suspension travel in a compressed mode, which is waaaay more important when it comes to handling.
For instance: To get a Koni shock to allow more travel before you are off the bumpstops, you need to physically shorten the actual shock body. This will allow the suspension to work and have enough travel when the car is lowered. And when the shock is shortened, the rod gets the same treatment. Note that a shorter rod alone does absolutely nothing for allowing more travel, however.
I am right, and I have a picture:

No offense meant, but as you can see, with my way you get more bump travel which is the important part of a smooth ride. The piston moves thorough the area of the shock it was designed to and is less likely to bottom out. I do not see how you could be right from my picture, if you know of a way draw it. Maybe you meant something other than what you wrote, IDK.
-Dustin
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That's not a good demonstration of how a shorter rod gives you more suspension travel. Again, all a shorter rod does is not allow as much suspension droop. So when the car lifts a wheel in the corner (or when you jack it up), the suspenion will not droop as much because the shorter rod is holding it up. This in no way has to do with actual suspension travel in a compressed mode, which is waaaay more important when it comes to handling.
For instance: To get a Koni shock to allow more travel before you are off the bumpstops, you need to physically shorten the actual shock body. This will allow the suspension to work and have enough travel when the car is lowered. And when the shock is shortened, the rod gets the same treatment. Note that a shorter rod alone does absolutely nothing for allowing more travel, however.
86-89 accord shocks are shorter than civic ones. I mated them up to h&r race springs and they work good. You won't get a great travel with a car lowered this low, but it's a good ride. If you have a bigger motor though consider getting some adjustables at least in the front though. Mine feel's a little too heavy, but not too bad.
my pic of setup
my pic of setup
k, here is the deal: im a cheap ****** even if i had 1500 to spend some some TIEN coilovers i would buy a Z6 motor and build it to put in....a civic wagon. sooo lets say that there is a $400 budget on this (including shipping) but i want to spend as little money as possible.
my car is stock... you read my sig? im not kidding too much about that, the world should think that is stock, slammed? hell no. stock hieght? dont care. just needs to turn! im not looking to go roadracing and beat the RealTime Racing RSX, just to have fun in the twisties.
this whole question really started cuz i spent ~$250 on some Tokicos and they are all blown and ride like complete **** (within 6 months i believe). i am thinking of getting some KYB GR-2 or equivilent, BUT i dont want the same thing to happen again...
my car is stock... you read my sig? im not kidding too much about that, the world should think that is stock, slammed? hell no. stock hieght? dont care. just needs to turn! im not looking to go roadracing and beat the RealTime Racing RSX, just to have fun in the twisties.
this whole question really started cuz i spent ~$250 on some Tokicos and they are all blown and ride like complete **** (within 6 months i believe). i am thinking of getting some KYB GR-2 or equivilent, BUT i dont want the same thing to happen again...
Well, there's your problem right there. You're pairing up springs with a really high spring rate with a low, low, low-end shock like the Tokico Blues. Even the Tokico Illuminas aren't that great, you would be better off with a non-adj shock like the Bilstein (around $370 for a set of four). Tok's aren't usually noted for their durability.
If you want to keep the H&R race springs you'll need to spring for some good shocks, period. If you had something like H&R OE's or Eibach ProKits, you'd be ok with cheap shocks - but the rates on the H&R race springs are just TOO DAMN HIGH for any (I mean ANY) shocks that you can get for $250. I've even seen several people with Eibach Sportlines and GR2's and they were doing good - the Sportlines do not have rates anywhere NEAR the H&R race springs. The H&R race springs almost top out the rate-handling capabilities of Koni Yellows, which are VERY VERY good and durable shocks.
My advice - get some softer damn springs that don't drop the car so low, and get some GR2's/AGX's/Blues/whatever cheap **** shocks to go with them, or pony up the cash for some good shocks like Bilsteins or Koni's so you don't ever have to worry about it again.
Alex
If you want to keep the H&R race springs you'll need to spring for some good shocks, period. If you had something like H&R OE's or Eibach ProKits, you'd be ok with cheap shocks - but the rates on the H&R race springs are just TOO DAMN HIGH for any (I mean ANY) shocks that you can get for $250. I've even seen several people with Eibach Sportlines and GR2's and they were doing good - the Sportlines do not have rates anywhere NEAR the H&R race springs. The H&R race springs almost top out the rate-handling capabilities of Koni Yellows, which are VERY VERY good and durable shocks.
My advice - get some softer damn springs that don't drop the car so low, and get some GR2's/AGX's/Blues/whatever cheap **** shocks to go with them, or pony up the cash for some good shocks like Bilsteins or Koni's so you don't ever have to worry about it again.
Alex




