For those that have a Beaks Kit on an Ek?
just received them yesterday and I know I have to drill a hole on my subframe... but from the search ive done looking at the pics of EK's that have them installed... it seems that the LCAs are on the way....will I be drilling through the LCA also? sorry for the post, here at work and haven't had a chance to look under the car myself......was just thinking about it and im sure you guys that have them on can answer my question. TIA.
An EK should have holes in the LCAs for the sway bar end links. You shouldn't need to drill holes in the LCAs. You'll need '99-'00 Si end links... but you probably know that.
thanks for the reply, but I was talking about where you drill the bottom hole for the support plates.... it looks like the lca is on the way...just needed to know if i'll be drilling through this also..
its easy to install the beaks.....u'll have to line up the bracket to the subframe...im not sure if u have to drill...it might just bolt on.....but all u really need to do to make the process easier is to remove the bolt that hold the lower arm to the subframe...that way u wont drill through it....i done this install on a EG6.....its basically the same......just pick the car up and take a look...its pretty simple....
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template, it was kind of a pain in the ***, but just get the general vicinity and use washers and longer bolts and a nut to secure it on the lca side of the subframe.
Mount the beaks kit with one bolt, the top one.
Make sure they are perpendicular to the ground.
Put your drill through the bottom hole of the beaks.
DRILL for a few seconds to start your hole.
Remove beaks kit.
Drill all the way through.
Should literally take less then 5 mins per side. It doesn't have to be super perfect. If you have the prothane brackets and bushings there will be enough play to square the swaybar up so it doesn't bind.
Make sure they are perpendicular to the ground.
Put your drill through the bottom hole of the beaks.
DRILL for a few seconds to start your hole.
Remove beaks kit.
Drill all the way through.
Should literally take less then 5 mins per side. It doesn't have to be super perfect. If you have the prothane brackets and bushings there will be enough play to square the swaybar up so it doesn't bind.
Depends on the tie bar itself.
I am using a Cusco one no problem, no special bolts or anything. Some other ones though need a longer bolt or something.
Will at Beaksproducts.com would know.
I am using a Cusco one no problem, no special bolts or anything. Some other ones though need a longer bolt or something.
Will at Beaksproducts.com would know.
I just installed my beaks and 22mm ITR tonight. Very easy install, drilling through the subframe is quick and painless, no need to drill through the LCA on my EJ8. The handling is awesome, no more understeer, and no problems with oversteer yet. But that's probably due to the Azenis. Only thing that kinda sucks is the occasional rattle from the endlinks or something down there. I'm a nerd so here are some pics...

Sweet Ebay tie bar huh...
Stock shocks...awwww yeah...
Sweet Ebay tie bar huh...
Stock shocks...awwww yeah...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Only thing that kinda sucks is the occasional rattle from the endlinks or something down there. </TD></TR></TABLE>
just installed mine a couple of days ago and noticed a considerable difference. I too hear an occasional rattle after installing the sway bar. Any ideas on what could be causing this? is there a remedy? anyone else with an ITR sway set up on a 96-98 have this problem
just installed mine a couple of days ago and noticed a considerable difference. I too hear an occasional rattle after installing the sway bar. Any ideas on what could be causing this? is there a remedy? anyone else with an ITR sway set up on a 96-98 have this problem
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CptCorN
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Oct 13, 2002 01:53 PM



