my car seems like it has maybe a short. when we did the swap we had problems with the dizzy so we resoldered the dizzy wires b/c the distributor was disconnected from its plug at one point in time. when the car shorts out you can hear a clicking or electrical shorting noise from inside the car.found out it was coming from the main relay. the car also bucks hardcore.we took it out and resoldered all the points on the main relay and it still does it. it seems to do it when the car heats up and/ or is under load(%50 or more throttle). when i hear the sound the car completely hesitates sputtering like you wouldnt believe. the tach bounces when i hear the noise and feel the sputtering. i have a heated o2 sensor. also it seems as though if i hit a bump it does it too. or maybe it does it on a bump b/c i hit accelerator more when running across one. trhowing code 9 and 14. this woulnt do this b/c of the iacv. and what doe "# 1 cylinder position" mean? timing is off or skipped a tooth of cam timing?

please help us. electrical ish is frickin HELL

offering $10-$20 through paypal if you help and your cause fixes it. no b/s.

 

The dist. is bad, replace it or borrow a friends and I am 100% sure it will go away.

 

Also, what kinda motor are we talking about?

 

d16z6 with zdyne and greddy kit.

 

Change the dist and plug wires

 

would a code 9 make the main relay short out or click on and off.

 

you said z6 engine but what distributor?
i have also had many strange runing problems caused by loose ground wire on the thermostat housing

 

if you match the colors you will be fine, BUT there are 2 white wires you must deal with on one side. If you are getting a code nine. switch the white wires around. worked for me.

 

you're throwing a code for iacv... while its running/idling unplug the iacv, you should hear a clicking kinda sound when you remove it and/or when you put it back on. you can also make sure you have the right plug attached to the iacv as the plug for iacv, iat, and another one (if you have a dx) are all the same.

# 1 cylinder position is the what the engine uses to sense when cylinder #1 is at tdc... which is necessary to time the injector pulses. for a sohc this sensor is in the dist. check, recheck and triple check your wiring.

a simple just in case kinda thing you can try is cleaning up your engine grounds, make sure they're all making good contact. beyond that i would double check your timing, try swapping dist. for a known good one, and checking out the condition of your plugs.


electrical problems can definately be a bitch, its best to just take your time and start with the simple stuff first before you go tearing your car apart looking for shorts.


also if possible id set up the zdyne to just run a base (ie stock engine) map for now and disconnect your charge piping and just hook up a filter to the tb. no sense complicating things until you get it running right.


Modified by tylerspec at 5:25 AM 9/26/2003

 

if your getting a "cylendar #1 position" code...id say your timing is fucked up

 

the problem I bet is the grounds.
double check the ground at the thermostat, make sure it is making good contact
and the connection is clean. Also check the battery ground, it goes to the chassy as well and if there is rust there, you will need to move it somewhere else.
I had a very similar problem and I got all kinds of codes and the car ran like crap.
it was the thermostat ground that was loose.

 

do what tylerspec said

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spaceballs the lunch box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the problem I bet is the grounds.
double check the ground at the thermostat, make sure it is making good contact
and the connection is clean. Also check the battery ground, it goes to the chassy as well and if there is rust there, you will need to move it somewhere else.
I had a very similar problem and I got all kinds of codes and the car ran like crap.
it was the thermostat ground that was loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and u too!

 

its the IACV not the CPS that is your main bucking problem

CPS code is a problem also i would try and switch the CPS wires around i think those the orange and white wire..you may have mixed the colors up..even though they dont match colors just switch them around and see if the code stops...CPS will cause the throttle to blip at 3000rpm but car will still run thru the revs.

but if the IACV is not working the car does that extreme bucking..you may have a bad IACV or you may have a bad connection going to the sensor...try unplugging the IACV and you will see that it will not rev past 2000 it will buck like a horse. So the bucking is associated with it getting connection then not getting it, thus causing the bucking

 

perhaps your firing order is wrong, check the plug wires on the dist cap. send money to vin579@aol.com

 

Well heres my .02$

First off it could be the ignition coil I had similar problems happen with it just the resistance went a tad to high in it and welp then the problems came.

Second don't just check all of your grounds add a new one or two couldn't hurt.

After that I'd follow everyone else theory's....also swapping the dizzy would be a good check

 

1. its the a6 distributor.

2. if the 2 white wires switched around the wrong way would the car even run?

3. iat is plugged in, the iacv is not. i cleaned it out and installed a different one. still no luck. but ill listen for the click. and the car does rev past 2k. it just wont hold constant rpm. like its on and off the gas.

4. the thermostat ground is on. there are four wires going to it correct?

thank all of you. i guess i have some work cut out for me. would a bad ground somewhere cause the main relay to click on/off and/or short out?

 

it may not be the plug thats messed up but you might have a break in the line somewhere

why is your IACV not plugged in?

trust me man im telling you if you throwing code 14 you have a continuity problem to the IACV

You said you changed the IACV and its still throwing 14 ....so dont you think you have a problem in the wiring?

bucking is associated with code 14

 

ive known its a code 14 and ive known that it causes the bucking. i am going to deal with that later. i need to figure out why the car is cutting out. not bucking. it has to be something electrical because i can hear the main relay clicking on and off. i took the grounds off the thermostat and change their location to the vtec solenoid and it still does it. i am going through more things as we speak and i will need more help im sure of that.

 

i dont understand your reasoning

you want the problem solved but yet you decided to ignore the obvious problems that you already know exist.

why dont you fix KNOWN problems first then try and figure out the Unknowns

Im not trying to sound like a dick, but start with the obvious before moving onto the indefinite

 

no i know. thats the obvious route to go. but this is an obvious problem and it is the worst. it has to be ecu power or ground. whtever it is its going to be hard to find.

 

yesterday i teseted the plug to the iacv. one read .06(signal) and i read 12.86(power) i plugged it in and i reset the ecu and i still threw 14. however the car did rev past 2000rpm with it plugged in or not. now i am throwing a code for tps(apparently it was cracked and finally broke) and now it wont rev past 2000rpm. but here is the real crazy stuff, the shorting stopped.

 

take your car to honda....wheres my money?..hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spaceman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take your car to honda....wheres my money?..hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol.

 

try changing the oil pressure switch

 

time traveling!