I have a 91 crx si its all stock right now and i am going to be swapping in a b16a when i get the money right now i want to relocate the battery to the trunk of the car. And my question was basically whats the best way to do this and where am I going to need to run the wires and am I going to need any extra parts. Thanks

 

I've never done it, but one thing you want to make sure you do is provide a vent for the battery. otherwise hydrogen can build up inside the battery case. even with a sealed battery. gasses can diffuse through solids. vent = happy. no vent = boom.

someone else will ahve to chime in with the specifics. I think there's a kit you can buy, or you can get a really heavy gauge amp wire set and make your own box.

 

alright thanks man

 

I relocated mine to the right rear of my CRX to make more room in the engine bay. I ran a section of 1 gauge copper wire to the back for the neg- for the positive I used a junction box (audio block that has ports for wires) it had openings for 1 gauge, 8 gauge and 10 gauge. go to a local stereo shop they can hook you up. I used a marine battery box to put the battery in. I used the old factory ground cable and just bolted into a spot I cleaned of paint to bare metal in the tire well.
I bought some universal j-bolts foe the hold down.

One thing I was told to do for safety was install a fuse in the postive cable close to the battery. all in all i spent about 45 bucks total so far.

 

I used s scoshe dual amp kit from Wal-Mart (~$20) and a battery box for a boat (also from walmart I think). The amp kit has enough 4ga. power wire, and you can use the distribution block (1-4ga to 2-8ga) to connect the power wire to the stock battery terminal (cut off terminal, connect wires to distribution block). I prefer marine style terminals, so I needed to buy some ring terminals. I grounded to the rear strut bar with some black 4ga wire, I could have used red (kit comes with only black 8ga), but I had some black laying around so I used it. You will need some kind of fuse/circuit breaker though, so plan on that. I have a MDF floor in my hatch too, so I just bolted the box down with carriage bolts in the recesses (so it won't wear holes in the battery).

Parts:
Amp kit~$20
battery box~$freeee (est:$5-10)
sealed gel-cel battery~$10 (retail $90)
ring terminals~$2
2ft black 4ga~$4
200amp circuit breaker~$freee (est $40)
total~$36 to $151 (including battery)

Time: 2 hrs

-Dustin

 

i just did mine a couple weeks ago..

i bought this kit from summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/...1200A

and then a fused distribution block from a local stereo shop: mine was $25.

the distribution block separates the 2 guage battery wire into 2 8 guage wires, one for the starter and one for the fuse box.

i also bought a sealed optima dry cell battery from a local parts store.

for a detailed instruction of how do do it, go here:
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/t....html
or here
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/battery.html

 

http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html
this should help you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nhez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html
this should help you</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is by far the best way of relocating the battery, very informative site as well.
stan

 

and another good write up http://www.homemadeturbo.com/t...tion/

 

Just so you guys know. The only batttery box that will be legal at any drag strip is the box made by Moroso if you are relocating in a hatch. Or the really expensive summit metal ones like in the homemadeturbo write up.

Also, about the write up on homemadeturbo, the ground location he chose is not a good one. You should not ground, your battery especially, to any piece of metal which is only tack welded to you chassis. Ground directly to your chassis.

 

better yet run a ground cable to the stock ground on the block as well as grounding to the chasses. the key is to have the least junctions possible from the battery to the block. current integrity isn't lost in wires, it's lot at junctions.

 

What do you mean by "junctions"? Curious.

 

you guys got high tech with your relocations..i put my bat behind the passenger got beefy ground wire goin everywhere like a spider web..hehe.then i got 2 beefy pos wires 1 going to the starter and 1 going to the factory fuse box location..i routed it all through a hole in the firewall where the passengers feet would be and i ran it all under the carpet.i didnt use any superconductors,nuke reactors..hehe..good luck

 

just a connection between 2 metal parts. like if you ground the battery just to the chassis, then bolt a strap from the chassis to the main ground point on the engine... that's 4 junctions. battery to lead, lead to chassis, chassis to second lead, second lead to engine. at every junction there isn't a perfect bond between the ring or spade fitting on the lead and the metal it's being bolted to. there's always some micro air pockets or something. smae logic as the guy just above me saying "don't ground to something that's held on by tack welds." welds are riddled with air gaps. while a junction may have close to zero resistance, that little bit of resistance is screwing with teh sensors' baseline. that being the ground voltage. it makes ther sensors' "vision" a little "fuzzy." that's the logic behind all those single point ground mods. they essentially give your sensors "glasses" to clear things up. while all this won't make a big difference in how your car performs, it will make a difference in your idle and how well your car's electronics function. also, good clean grounds will give your engine a slightly more responsive feel to it.

that being said, grounding the battery to teh chassis then grounding everything else to teh chassis is like the opposite of the single-point ground mod. it increases the number of junctions instead of decresing it.

 

as long as you have a vent and a battery shut off switch, the marine boat box is legal for track racing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as long as you have a vent and a battery shut off switch, the marine boat box is legal for track racing.</TD></TR></TABLE>


There are quite a few other factors involved. This is for drag racing. If you do not have a rear firewall; if where the battery is placed does not have a sealed firewall between you and the battery, you must have an approved box. The cheapo plastic summit boxes will not do in a hatchback. You must have at least 2 - 3/8" diameter bolts holding your battery down bolted directly to the chassis of the vehicle. If you battery has been relocated, then you must have a kill switch to shut off all electrical functions of the vehicle. This switch must be placed at the rear most point of the vehicle.

 

so basically i shouldnt relocate it because its a big pain in the ***?

 

you going to eventually. especially if ur going to the darkside chirp..... chirp. it's not that hard. good luck!

 

hhmm interesting... what about if i jsut get a smeller battery in the stock location....? the only thing the baterry is preventing me from doing is getting a decent intake to fit

 

relocating the battery is as easy as installing an amplifier.

-Dustin