ok, my 1990crx b16, runs fine except when it gets hot, it kind of shorts out or something, i hear a click the the car hesitates for like .1 sec some times its like just a few sec apart other times its a few min apart.what could this be???
i replaced the fuel pump, filter , and mian relay thinking it would help but it dident.
what next, please help i realy wanna drive the car!
thanks alot people

 

I'm kind of lost, so you say it don't like to start in the heat sometimes or it hesitates but starts ? Can you be a little more descriptive please.

 

The starter is on its way it....when it gets heat saturated like your saying the starter is not wanting to start......

 

no no no , i starts it just "hesitates" going down the road.
thanks

 

any codes?

 

no check engine lights or anything.
any guesses

 

Sounds like it could be your 02 sensor.

 

Perhaps its time to replace your fuel filter? Or maybe your air filter is just really dirty so its not letting enough air to get to your motor and causing it to "choke" out or what ever??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BioXide02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps its time to replace your fuel filter? Or maybe your air filter is just really dirty so its not letting enough air to get to your motor and causing it to "choke" out or what ever??</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jondancer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i replaced the fuel pump, filter , and mian relay thinking it would help but it dident.
what next, please help i realy wanna drive the car!
thanks alot people </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Maybe he got a faulty one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jondancer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no no no , i starts it just "hesitates" going down the road.
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

I it has no relation to throttle position, I would start looking at components inside your distributor.
If you can substitute a good distributor to compare, that might narrow the possibilities down.

 

hey mine done the same thing and i kep driveong it and some how it skip timing so be easy on it

 

ignitor


Rob

 

I had something very similar to this in my old GTI. As soon as the car heated up Id be driving down the street and it would hesitate for a second the continue on normally. This would either be a few minutes apart, or even up to a couple days apart. It ended up being a pick-up switch in my distributor. So I ate the cost for a new dizzy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "rjardy" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ignitor</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is one of the things to look for - very common.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jk215 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had something very similar to this in my old GTI. As soon as the car heated up Id be driving down the street and it would hesitate for a second the continue on normally. This would either be a few minutes apart, or even up to a couple days apart. It ended up being a pick-up switch in my distributor. So I ate the cost for a new dizzy </TD></TR></TABLE>
Bold = my emphesis

The "CYP" (cylinder position) pick-up was my problem.

 

If you are running the stock JDM OBD0 PR3/PWO ecu, are you utilizing the 2 single wire O2 sensors? Pins C8 and C16 need to see a signal from each O2.

If you are running this set-up and get a "hesitation" sometimes at part-throttle......try switching the wires around at C8 and C16. I've only encountered this once or twice in all the OBD0 B16's Ive swapped into 4th gen Civics/CRX's.


If this aint it, I'd look into your distributor. You are running the OBD0 Vtec Dizzy right?

 

O2 sensor #1 is:
C16 on the PR3 or PW0 ecu
GREEN oval connector {oxygen sensor A}
monitors cylinders 1 & 4

O2 sensor #2 is:
C8 on the PR3 or PW0 ecu
WHITE round connector {oxygen sensor B}

monitors cylinders 2 & 3

 

Change your cap and rotor

 

I had the same problem with my stock D15. check the plugs, wires and dizzy. If that doesn't work it should at least narrow it down quite a bit.

 

just do a full tuneup

 

If the clicking sound is coming from the interior, check out the main relay. Just an idea. They mess up when they get hot, but usually when sitting in the sun with the windows up; and not going don't the road though...

Another problem I had, was going down the road, the car would buck violently. Unless it was hammered and still then it messed up from time to time. It was just loose distributor wires.

 

it seems like you guys are describing alot of my problems. i dont mean to thread jjack but ive been searching and looking and asking around for weeks. my car seems like it has maybe a short. when we did the swap we had problems with the dizzy so we resoldered the dizzy wires b/c the distributor was disconnected from its plug at one point in time. when the car shorts out you can hear a clicking or electrical shorting noise from inside the car. i have a pillar pod and i thought it sounded like it was coming from that area. the car also bucks hardcore at part throttle but i think that is because of the iacv code. it doesnt do it as nearly at all when the car is cold and it seems to do it more when the car is in lower gears(1st, 2nd, sometimes 3rd) and also does it when the car is under more load like when i press the gas pedal more.

please help us. electrical ish is frickin HELL

 

I think the problems lays at the point where your coolant gets hot. You may wanna check the function of your coolant temperature sensor. Also inspect the electronic air control valve next. Usually the oxygen sensor(non-heated or course) will begin working way before the coolant gets hot *UNLESS* it is old and crappy. Also if your o2 sensor is that bad you usually have a MIL.(Malfunction indicator lamp)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mntuner2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the problems lays at the point where your coolant gets hot. You may wanna check the function of your coolant temperature sensor. Also inspect the electronic air control valve next. Usually the oxygen sensor(non-heated or course) will begin working way before the coolant gets hot *UNLESS* it is old and crappy. Also if your o2 sensor is that bad you usually have a MIL.(Malfunction indicator lamp) </TD></TR></TABLE>

well i found out the sound is coming from the main relay. however it isnt a click. it sounds like its either shorting out or clicking on and off very rapidly. we took it out and resoldered all the points nad it still does it. it seems to do it when the car heats up and/ or is under load(%50 or more throttle). when i hear the sound the car completely dies out, the tach goes to zero and when i dont hear it it goes right back to normal. also it is kinda like a bucking too. i have a heated o2 sensor. also it seems as though if i hit a bump it does it too. very wierd.

 

Does it happen at a certain rpm? I have the same problem: Extreme hesitation mainly between 1.5-3k rpm only when engine has reached normal operating temperature. When the engine is cold, it runs fine, no hesitation. I've changed the spark plugs, fuel filter, o2 sensor(previously periodically throwing code, now gone), and I've adjusted the TPS to read .52 at idle and 4.48 at WOT and fuel pressure to 42psi. What seems odd to me is that it only happens when the engine has warmed up. I know this is a common problem because I've searched about this and found many posts with no solutions.

Can someone who is mechanically-educated please post a list of what is NOT causing this problem so we can narrow down the list of possiblities. The key symptom is sputters only when engine is warm!!! What causes this??? Ideas?