Need help on motor build
i plan to rebuild a gsr motor and use somewhat all oem parts for the build except for the head. i want it to be daily driven in AZ on pump gas. i also want to acheive 200whp all motor. Should i go w/ hondata or do u think i could pull it off w/ chipped ecu and vafc2? also do u think i have what it takes to reach 200whp if not suggest parts i should change.
Heres what im planning on:
Gsr Head
skunk2 Intake mani
skunk2 stage 2 cams
port flow inner springs
itr outter springs
mild port and polish
comptech ice box
itr throttle body or bored out stock TB
Gsr block
CTR os pistons and rings (12.09:1 cr) c-speedracin.com
micro polished crank
shot peened gsr rods
arp rod bolts
Bolt ons
DC 4-1 header or comptech header
Apexi Ws Catback or Greddy SP
ericks racing fpr
Adj cam gears
chipped p28 w/ vafc2 OR Hondata
edited
Modified by projecthybrid04 at 11:55 PM 10/3/2003
Heres what im planning on:
Gsr Head
skunk2 Intake mani
skunk2 stage 2 cams
port flow inner springs
itr outter springs
mild port and polish
comptech ice box
itr throttle body or bored out stock TB
Gsr block
CTR os pistons and rings (12.09:1 cr) c-speedracin.com
micro polished crank
shot peened gsr rods
arp rod bolts
Bolt ons
DC 4-1 header or comptech header
Apexi Ws Catback or Greddy SP
ericks racing fpr
Adj cam gears
chipped p28 w/ vafc2 OR Hondata
edited
Modified by projecthybrid04 at 11:55 PM 10/3/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stein »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since you're running such a high compression ratio, you could go with Skunk2 Stage 2 cams. You'll just need to find a good tuner. I would recommend Hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was also thinking of running the stage 2 cam, my friend jason was gonna hook me up w/ a good tuner and get the car dyno tunned after the build, stage 2 would run me a lil more just b/c i would have to upgrade more stuff along w/ it and plus i have stage 1 cams already but stage 2s are an option, i just want to keep the motor more mild, more of a street driven kinda car as oppose to a track *****
i was also thinking of running the stage 2 cam, my friend jason was gonna hook me up w/ a good tuner and get the car dyno tunned after the build, stage 2 would run me a lil more just b/c i would have to upgrade more stuff along w/ it and plus i have stage 1 cams already but stage 2s are an option, i just want to keep the motor more mild, more of a street driven kinda car as oppose to a track *****
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a TODA header or a SMSP header.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would but thats alot of $$$, that i don't have
i would but thats alot of $$$, that i don't have
what's goin on mark.... if i were i'd just run some itr pistons(overbore if you want) they will provide plenty of compression for the stage 1's and w/ the ctr's on 91 octane when its hot as hell causes detonation problems...speakin from personal experience....other than that just make sure you got a free flowin header like a jdm 4-1 or something to that nature and you'll be happy w/ it...good luck on the build man
almost the same kinda of config im plannin to get when i get my gsr motor but ima use a type r head instead for now and CTR pistions around 11.7 compression
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junya16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's goin on mark.... if i were i'd just run some itr pistons(overbore if you want) they will provide plenty of compression for the stage 1's and w/ the ctr's on 91 octane when its hot as hell causes detonation problems...speakin from personal experience....other than that just make sure you got a free flowin header like a jdm 4-1 or something to that nature and you'll be happy w/ it...good luck on the build man</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i was debating weather i wanted the itr or ctr or even p30s but i decided w/ the ctr because i don't wanna regret not having enough compression, if i did decide to go w/ a bigger piston, thanks man
yeah i was debating weather i wanted the itr or ctr or even p30s but i decided w/ the ctr because i don't wanna regret not having enough compression, if i did decide to go w/ a bigger piston, thanks man
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1fasthb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a good header would help you alot</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah ur right, but headers are so damn expensive
yeah ur right, but headers are so damn expensive
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver94SBostonMA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">suggestion:
DC sports headers sell brand new on ebay for about 250 dollars.
If you pay with paypal you can get a money back gaurantee that you recieve exactly what you purchased.</TD></TR></TABLE>
really? thanks man, i've never really bought anything over $50 off of ebay before, i'll deffinatly look into it
DC sports headers sell brand new on ebay for about 250 dollars.
If you pay with paypal you can get a money back gaurantee that you recieve exactly what you purchased.</TD></TR></TABLE>
really? thanks man, i've never really bought anything over $50 off of ebay before, i'll deffinatly look into it
JUNYA said that 12.1 will detonate in hot weather and he is right unless you have a toda cam. Toda's primary lobes are large enough to bleed off cylinder pressure so that you won't detonate. Jun 3 and skunk stage 2's haev mild primaries and don't bleed off enough of the high cylinder pessures a high compresion motor produces and wala - Detonation. But I feel 12.1-1 with either skunk2 stage2 or JUN 3 would get you to your goal of 200whp with proper tuning, fuel delivery, and exhaust. Pick up a used header tech or AN-R header in the classifieds on this board for $450. Also detonation shouldn't be to big of a problem. Jsut pull some timing in hot weather.
don't bother Shot Peening (WTF is shot and peened?) stock rods. The come stock from Honda with a shot peen finish.You probably meant polished beams and shot peened, no? Anything other than adding ARP rod bolts usually warrants just getting a set of aftermarket. Even if its only a set of Econobillet or something.
For type R rod's I couldn't agree more but if your buidling a CRV block for VTEC duty shot peening is a must for those rods. THere are some instances where stock honda rods can benefit from shot peening at the very worst it won't hurt anything that's for sure and it's cheap to do.
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