Installing a Jackson Racing Supercharger on a '01 Lude SH. Ran into many problems. After 12 hours, and lots of trips to the auto store we're not done yet

1.) Taking the factory fuel filter off yeilded to be harder than it seems. The fuel line twisted and broke. I dont think that ****** needed to be that tight.. thanks Honda.

It broke off right under the filter and is very incessable. How to I fix this?

A picture would be useful here but anyone whos done this before will know what Im talking about. How do I work on the fuel line safely? We worried about using a dremel tool to cut the pipe for obvious reasons. Trying to avoid dumping a full tank of 94 octane.

2.) The kit requires relocation of the oil filter. And for good reason. You 5th gen Lude guys must have a terrible time getting to that thing. The kit provides all the parts nessecary to relocat the oil filter to under the batter. It has two hoses going to and from the filter. Is there an easy way to test this system actually moves oil and the pipes arent crossed, without blwoing up the car from no oil?




Modified by Muckman at 12:44 AM 9/21/2003

 

I chose to have my dealership replace the filter during a regular servicing right before I installed my JRSC. I have heard that changing out the filter is a BITCH. Sorry to hear about the trouble it has given you, good luck on that.

There are plenty of people using the oil filter relocator an SH ludes, and there is no reason it would not work fine as long as the lines are not kinked. It is no different than running an oil cooler setup on the car. Just make absolutely sure that the lines are free from kinks and that they are clear of anything that can split them open. Those soft lines suck!

 

Im thinking about replacing the entire fuel line with a steel braided one. Can I buy a premade line with the ends in place?

I can buy the steel braided line by itself but I dont know how long or what size ends I need. It looks like they mostly use AN lines. Is the factory fitting even a AN size? I thought it was 3/8". Does anyone happen to know the length of the fuel line from pump to filter on a 5th gen Prelude SH?

 

You can do a few different things...
You can replace a short length of the Fuel line... You rent the Double flange tool(auto-zone) and the proper length of Fuel line (i do beleave that it is the same through out the industry) If you buy a small pipe cutter that you can work with safely and not worry about blowing up yourself or worse off the car
You could also use a compression fitting and go that route... I would not go this route... but it should work.

Good luck and let us know how everything goes!!!

 

Ordered a new OEM fuel line from the stealership. Only $40.

Umm this supercharger install sucks ***. I have between 2 and 3 sets of hands working on this project for something near 15 hours straight and we're maybe only 75% done. This is by far the hardest thing Ive ever done, and Ive installed lots of suspensions, and even assembled a B18C1. Everything that can go wrong does go wrong. Every step is super complicated because it requires working in extremely tight quarters, or removing studs that are welded in?! Preludes absolutely SUCK!

 

Hrmmmm, I don't remember removing any studs that were welded in. Actually, my self install went quite smoothly, although I did take a week off from work and took my time. I did it over the course of five days, and that includes installing the Hondata gasket. Granted, the close quarters did suck, especially trying to get the bolts on the backside of the blower tight, with their close proximity to the firewall. That sucked, I'm surprised I don't have a leak back there.

Anyway, if you have questions, post them up, and I might be able to answer, having been through it myself.


Modified by sharkcohen at 5:24 AM 9/23/2003

 

I just replaced my fuel filter and it took 5 minutes...

 

screw you! if you have the right tools as it shows in the helms you can get at it from the bottom but we didnt have the helms at that time and attempted to twist it out from the top. The fuel line was exceptionally tight and the fuel line twisted before the nut loosened... we suck

sharkcohen - so far we have had to remove 3 studs. 1 from the driver side motor mount and 2 from the lower peice of the intake manifold. I was incorrect by saying they were welded in but still difficult to remove perfectly.

 

How were you trying to remove the studs? I used the "double nut" technique (had to purchase a second matching nut for the motor mount stud from the hardware store).

 

i wil be using that technique but some dumber friends who were working on that side of the car while i was relocating the oil filter decided the motor mount bolt had to be punched out and started wailing on it with a hammer, needless to say all the threads are fucked now. So I dont know if we can use the double nut method. Ive tried to cut it down with a dremel to where the threads are good but it never comes out perfect and I cant get a nut on it.

 

Holy crap, don't let those guys near your car again!

 

<U>Update</U>

Fixed fuel line. Thanks to Advance Auto's fuel line repair kit!
Removed studs from motor mount and bottom half of intake manifold. Thanks to bolt extractor from Sears!

Finnished the install of the kit except 1 step. Everything else went smoothly. I would call JR for tech support but the only guy who does tech support is on vacation this week and has no back up.

question 1.) Step #63 in the instructions: http://www.jacksonracing.com/m...0.pdf
I dont understand this step at all. I know where the ICS is located but I dont know which of the two hoses its refering to. Nothing is labled #8 hose anywhere in the kit or on the car, I dont know wtf its talking about #8 for. I assume "vanve" is a typo of "Valve".

question 2.) I have two 5/32" size vaccum sources open on the nose size of the supercharger. I assume 1 will be used up from the above question. What do I do with the other open vaccum source?

question 3.) No where in the directions does it mention the brake booster vaccum hose. I connected it to the only 3/8" vaccum source on the nose of the supercharger where it would seem to logically fit. Is this correct?

question 4.) No where in the directions does it mention to attach the throttle body to the supercharger. It just starts talking about connecting hoses to the TB. Am I skimming over this step or are the directions sloppy as hell?

question 5.) This may be explained if the step for attaching the Throttle body exists. Steps 64 - 68 deal with the IAC valve. However the Fast Idle Thermo Valve is not mentioned in the directions. On the stock setup the coolant is routed through the FITV and then to the IACV. But now the JR directions completely leave out the FITV and have the coolant routed directly to and from only the IACV. This leaves two hose connections open on the FITV which is attached to the bottom of the throttle body. WTF?

As you can see there seems to be alot of steps missing from these directions. Overall the directions are sloppy and barely adquate. I think alot more detail and relevant pictures would help significantly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question 1.) Step #63 in the instructions: http://www.jacksonracing.com/m...0.pdf
I dont understand this step at all. I know where the ICS is located but I dont know which of the two hoses its refering to. Nothing is labled #8 hose anywhere in the kit or on the car, I dont know wtf its talking about #8 for. I assume "vanve" is a typo of "Valve". </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the hose you removed from the stock intake plenum in step 21.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question 2.) I have two 5/32" size vaccum sources open on the nose size of the supercharger. I assume 1 will be used up from the above question. What do I do with the other open vaccum source?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use it for whatever you want. First make sure that everything that is supposed to be plugged in is. Any unused port can be plugged.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question 3.) No where in the directions does it mention the brake booster vaccum hose. I connected it to the only 3/8" vaccum source on the nose of the supercharger where it would seem to logically fit. Is this correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is correct, and it is in the instructions: 100. Route a piece of 5/32” X 28” vacuum hose from one of the remaining fittings to the MAP sensor. Reinstall the power brake hose. It connects to the large, 90 degree, brass fitting on the back of the intake manifold.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question 4.) No where in the directions does it mention to attach the throttle body to the supercharger. It just starts talking about connecting hoses to the TB. Am I skimming over this step or are the directions sloppy as hell?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's there: 94. Install the Throttle Body onto the Throttle Body Inlet Casting at this time using the four 8 x 40mm bolts provided.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question 5.) This may be explained if the step for attaching the Throttle body exists. Steps 64 - 68 deal with the IAC valve. However the Fast Idle Thermo Valve is not mentioned in the directions. On the stock setup the coolant is routed through the FITV and then to the IACV. But now the JR directions completely leave out the FITV and have the coolant routed directly to and from only the IACV. This leaves two hose connections open on the FITV which is attached to the bottom of the throttle body. WTF?</TD></TR></TABLE>
95. Route a new 5/16”x 12” silicone coolant hose from the inlet of the IAC valve to the outlet of the Fast Idle Valve. Reuse original clamps. 96. Reconnect the original coolant hose to the inlet of the Fast Idle Valve from the back of the cylinder head.

I didn't think that the instructions were poorly written, and my installation went very smoothly without issues

 

Sharkcohen, Thanks for clearing up all the missing steps. A big problem on this project is that so many hands touched the car doing some steps out of order. The EMS for example was done ahead of time and when I got to step 70 I thought we were done, little did I know there were still engine steps in the EMS section of the directions. I still feel the directions could be rewritten to be much better.

 

I agree that the directions are not perfect. Having the Helm manual along side the instructions helped me out alot, especially the vacuum line diagrams. Glad I was able to help out, sounds like you are getting close to finishing. Good luck!

 

Would it be smart for me to recommend to the owner to upgrade the pulley to get more boost right out of the box? Is the included EMS system any good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would it be smart for me to recommend to the owner to upgrade the pulley to get more boost right out of the box? Is the included EMS system any good?</TD></TR></TABLE>
HELL NO. Do NOT let him run higher than the stock boost with the stock components. The stock JR fuel and engine management is barely adequate at 6 psi. However, if he were to go Hondata and large injectors (550 cc) he could easily run 9 psi.

 

yes, listen to Sharkcohen don't go with a upgrade pully if u don't have hondata and a dyno to tune it.
oh where can i get a helm manual for my 5gen

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sharkcohen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Having the Helm manual along side the instructions helped me out alot, especially the vacuum line diagrams. </TD></TR></TABLE>

isn't there a vacum line diagram under the hood? came in useful for my HG change on my legend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redmethods &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, listen to Sharkcohen don't go with a upgrade pully if u don't have hondata and a dyno to tune it.
oh where can i get a helm manual for my 5gen</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know kragen has chilton manuals that are around $15 dollars. I got mine off e-bay for 10

 

Ok we finnished up the install but the oil filter relocation kit leaks oil! I put this on myself and I am 100% confident the oil lines were NOT cross threaded. I tightened them pretty tight as tight as I felt comfortable without breaking anything. I quadrople checked to make sure the oil lines were installed properly. Input of one side goes into the output of the other side of the kit and visa versa.

We start up the car, amazed it actually works without any CELs we were very happy! Look under the car and its leaking oil, fast. Turn the car off. Inspect the oil filter relocation kit and its deffinitely the source of the leakage. Turn the car on for a few seconds to witness the leakage and to my amazement the oil did not leak out of the threading. It leaked out of the god damn JR oil lines!!! Where the line has the threaded brass fitting crimped on the end is where it leaks. On both ends!!! At least its not my fault.... but still wtf?!$@ After all that work it leaks! And the kit that attaches behind the block is INACCESSABLE without taking half the fucken blower off.

 

Woah, it's leaking from the point where the fitting is crimped onto the hose, or it's leaking through the threads? If the threads, tighten it more, I had the same trouble with mine on my JR oil cooler kit (uses the same brass fittings). I thought I had tightened them plenty, only to find they needed to be tighter. If it is leaking from the fitting at the point of installation on the hose, CALL UP JR/MOSS MOTORS AND BITCH THEM OUT.

 

Its deff leaking from the fitting where its crimped onto the hoses!! I thought for sure it would be leaking from the threads not being tightened enough but its not! Clearly from the hoses/crimps!! Ugh this has been an install nightmare!

 

That's insane, was this a brand new kit?

 

Owner bought it brand fucken new from Modacar. its leaking from both ends (under battery and back of the block). I can't confirm how its leaking behind the block bc I cant see very well but on the battery side is deffinitly leaking from the hose crimp. JR will most likely say the cause is user/install error but I dont see how I could have fucked up the hoses at the crimp, and yet both ends?! I will definitely bitch! I cant believe this after all that work we have to go back in and redo it.


Modified by Muckman at 11:36 PM 9/30/2003