Safe to Go turbo on 100k miles on 95 gsr?!
I already posted this on the FI forum, just wanted to see wut the teg guys think.
I am very close to buying a turbo kit for my 95 gsr which now just hit a 100000 miles today. I was curious to know is it safe to run at most 10psi, and anywhere from 4-8 daily driven without any problems. Of course with proper engine management via hondata.I have very light mods just basic boltons i/h/e and type r clutch and flywheel. And is there anyways to check to see if my motor is capabale of holding bost with such high milleage without any problems.
I am very close to buying a turbo kit for my 95 gsr which now just hit a 100000 miles today. I was curious to know is it safe to run at most 10psi, and anywhere from 4-8 daily driven without any problems. Of course with proper engine management via hondata.I have very light mods just basic boltons i/h/e and type r clutch and flywheel. And is there anyways to check to see if my motor is capabale of holding bost with such high milleage without any problems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kent, clark »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">compression test
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yep, should be consistent on all cylinders and hopefully high....
</TD></TR></TABLE>yep, should be consistent on all cylinders and hopefully high....
compression first, then all you need is good tuning. i've seen an LS with 160k+ miles on his boostin at 14psi, made 270whp? somehwere around there. its about tuning.
put it this way ..from the factory b18c motors should have 270 psi in each cylendar. my friends GSR hydrolocked and still had a healthy 220psi all across ..his has over 93,XXX miles on his car. hopefully you should pull anywhere above 200...135 i believe is the minimum (i could be wrong) but 180 is relatively low for a b18c to me. just my 02
if you arent going to rebuild
i would do a major service of new thicker headgasktet arp/aebs head studs, new oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt and cam seals while you are in their.
its alot cheaper to take everything out and inspect it, then to rebuild the whole damn motor when you either crack a sleeve, melt a piston/valve, or make a rod no longer straight
i would do a major service of new thicker headgasktet arp/aebs head studs, new oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt and cam seals while you are in their.
its alot cheaper to take everything out and inspect it, then to rebuild the whole damn motor when you either crack a sleeve, melt a piston/valve, or make a rod no longer straight
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you arent going to rebuild
i would do a major service of new thicker headgasktet arp/aebs head studs, new oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt and cam seals while you are in their.
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headgasket is key to lowering compression ratio...stock compression for b18c is over 10:1 . you should lower it to about 8:1 - 9:1 cr. this will help the motor last alittle longer and keep temperatures lower...if you go th rebuilding route..add some forged pistons.
i would do a major service of new thicker headgasktet arp/aebs head studs, new oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt and cam seals while you are in their.
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headgasket is key to lowering compression ratio...stock compression for b18c is over 10:1 . you should lower it to about 8:1 - 9:1 cr. this will help the motor last alittle longer and keep temperatures lower...if you go th rebuilding route..add some forged pistons.
been asked a lot already...
compression/leakdown test and mileage means **** if numbers are high and even across the board.. go for it
compression/leakdown test and mileage means **** if numbers are high and even across the board.. go for it
Stock for the time being possibly later upgrade the internals but for now im goign to leave it, i will be pleased with a little 13 sec monster on 10 psi for now thats my goal and of course the car being reliable as its my daily driver to school, work ect.
im telling you, I would put new stuff in if you want it to be dead realiable.
get a hondata for sure if you drive it alot. dont dink around with anything else unless you are going to spend more.
get a hondata for sure if you drive it alot. dont dink around with anything else unless you are going to spend more.
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