does anyone know where i can get some extended wheel studs?
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
i know skunk makes some extended wheel studs but damn they're 4.50 a piece. does anyone know of another manufacturer that produces these studs and if so, where can i purchase them at? thanks in adv.
you can get some 86-89 integra rear studs which are longer (but not as much as skunks)
other manufactures are H&R and Z-speed (skunk)
here: $4 a piece x 16 = $80 http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/skunk2.htm
other manufactures are H&R and Z-speed (skunk)
here: $4 a piece x 16 = $80 http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/skunk2.htm
I purchased longer studs from Dorman (handled by most auto parts stores). They were not super long but long enough to meet NHRA specs. Price was about $1.25 ea. Grab a catalog and find what base size and thread pattern your stock lugs have. Then look for the same figures in a longer length. I have 50 passes on them at close to 130 mph with no problems. If I can find my part # I will post it.
You can buy longer studs from ARP but they are expensive.
You can buy longer studs from ARP but they are expensive.
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
the longer studs are for safety purposes and is mandatory for any sanctioned import event today. i'm looking to get these because i'm putting on wheel spacers on my car.
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I believe they want to eliminate the situation where only a few threads of the stud were doing all the work of holding the wheel onto the car. The more threads you have holding the lug nut, the more the force of the wheel is spread over the whole stud...thus a stronger fastener.
BTW...You also need metal valve stems rather than rubber ones to be NHRA legal.
IMO, I would be real careful with wheel spacers. Make sure they fit correctly. You can do a lot of damage to yourself if a wheel comes loose at 100+mph.
BTW...You also need metal valve stems rather than rubber ones to be NHRA legal.
IMO, I would be real careful with wheel spacers. Make sure they fit correctly. You can do a lot of damage to yourself if a wheel comes loose at 100+mph.
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
got the skunks, has anyone put these on before? since they are longer, does this require the seperation of the steering knuckle from the hub?
Yes, you need to press the hub out of the steering knuckle to replace the studs. The actual act of replacing the studs is simple once you can figure out how to press the hub out and then press it back in. I'd take it to an auto parts place for that.
Sorry, can't seem to find part #. I need to buy another set also so when I figure it out, I will post it or e-mail you direct.
I installed a set in a crx without seperating the hub and knuckle but it takes a little bit of grinding in the right spots.
I installed a set in a crx without seperating the hub and knuckle but it takes a little bit of grinding in the right spots.
It seems like the skunk2 (sold overpriced @ jdmhondaparts) ARE the ARP parts. The photo is the same as seen on other true competition car parts sites(as ARP's). I believe the Honda applications are the same as the "late model" Chevy's(don't quote me on that one). I found out all of this through a simple search on Dogpile and making a couple of phone calls. Doing a little research will save you a lot of headaches in the long run.
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
what do you mean it "needs some grinding at the right spots?" does that mean i have grind the studs themselves or grind it against the hub to get it in? oh yeah, how difficult is it to pry the knuckle from the hub and to put it back. thanks.
You will need a hydraulic press to press out the hub from the bearing pack to do this right. Have your favorite shop do the work for you, unless you have press at home and know how to use it.
You will need to press out the bearings and they will need to be replaced. Honda bearings (CRX for sure) come out in two pieces and do not go back together well. The wheel studs sold under the Skunk2 name are very nice.
Both...Grind a little on the hub just in the spot that is stopping the stud from going into position. You also might have to grind a little notch on the stud also. Just use your common sense. You CAN'T pry the the knuckle and hub apart yourself.
Once the stud is in position, pull it tight with a nut and you are in business.
Earl
Once the stud is in position, pull it tight with a nut and you are in business.
Earl
Part # on studs...408
Below that is stamped:
011J
10.9
The thread pattern is 12 x 1.5
Length is approx. 1 7/8"
I think the mfg. is Dorman but it could be another producer. Just check part # with your local auto parts store.
Below that is stamped:
011J
10.9
The thread pattern is 12 x 1.5
Length is approx. 1 7/8"
I think the mfg. is Dorman but it could be another producer. Just check part # with your local auto parts store.
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