i am getting code 5 after the car runs for like 3 seconds.... seems to run fine, but tring to sell the car. thanks


Modified by SOHC Beast at 10:46 PM 9/25/2003

 

tonight when i started it. i drove it for like a full minute or more before the check engine light came on?


Modified by SOHC Beast at 10:46 PM 9/25/2003

 

scroll down for update!


Modified by SOHC Beast at 11:43 PM 9/28/2003

 

Modified by SOHC Beast at 10:46 PM 9/25/2003

 

yup, scroll down for update!


Modified by SOHC Beast at 11:44 PM 9/28/2003

 

 

still need help...

 

down!


Modified by SOHC Beast at 11:44 PM 9/28/2003

 

#5 Is your MAP sensor- Manifold Absolute Pressure. Mechanical problem/disconnected piping. May need new sensor?

 

ok, i will try to change it with my g/fs to see if it helps. when it is cold, the idle also jumps for a few seconds.....could this be a direct relation from the map sensor?

 

ok,switched it out for my g/fs..... works fine... no codes on her car, still get a code with hers. tried switching the ecu. still getting a code. i dont know how to fix it. this is driving me crazy cuz i am tring to sell the car.

the sensor is re-wired(hard wired) a wire soldered from about 3" from the plug, and then soldered in again about 2" from ecu pin. (all three wires are like that) so i know the connections are good. could it be messing up the wiring some how?

 

i still cannot figure it out, i even un-did the soldering job and hooked up stock ires again w/o solder... but they do have a good connections, still getting the code? i am supposed to sell it tonight? PLEASE help!

 

somebody help...... still getting the code. also, when it is cold the idle jumps for a minute unitl the car is warmed up

 

 

when you switched the MAP with your g/f's did you reset your ecu???

 

yes, b/c i then switched ecu's . so at one point i was running her map and ecu.... and she runs my map still with her ecu and she gets no code? this is why i am so stumpped. my ecu in her car, fine, my map in hers, fine....

 

i still need help... anything else that can help determine the problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i still need help... anything else that can help determine the problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It has to be wiring. Run new lines from point to point. I was trouble shooting my crank fluctuation sensor a while back and it turned out the wires were cut by the alternator belt.

 

well i have run new wires and re-checked them. i know they are all connected... just have a splice in them from where i ran new wires... just didnt have new pins.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i have run new wires and re-checked them. i know they are all connected... just have a splice in them from where i ran new wires... just didnt have new pins.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are they the same diameter wires?
Are you using a cold solder or hot?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are they the same diameter wires?
Are you using a cold solder or hot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

they were thicker wires.... and not sure on the solder. then i took out those wires, and hooked up the stock wires again just by twisting them up real well....no solder. and it runs the same way...

thanks for being helpful. you are the first person to actually try and help me out here.

 

I would try a hot solder. (if you have not done this before, pracitce for 5 minutes on some other stuff)

Was there a problem before you ran the new wires?

 

i had hondata running boost. got code 3. people said it was map. so i ran new wires after switching the sensor... and it turned out to be vtec solinoid... but ill try hot solder. thanks again

 

Also, take the connector off and clean both sides with a 50/50 mixture of water and baking soda to remove and corosion.