what specs did you use on your ls vtec setup ?
thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For stock head bolts....
(8.7 kgf.m, 63 ft-lbs) Apply motor oil to all threads first and top of washer.

Tighten them in this sequence. Imagine looking at motor from front of car. And reading bolts from left to right starting from intake side:
8, 4, 2, 6, 10 &lt;---intake order
7, 3, 1, 5, 9 &lt;---exhaust order

Hope that helped dude.

Torque them to 22ft-lbs first in that order. Then to 63ft-lbs in that order.

Good luck.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I normally do that process 3 times so that the torque on the bolts is consistent.

 

what about on arp head studs? Still use the oem specs or what is arp's spec?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about on arp head studs? Still use the oem specs or what is arp's spec? </TD></TR></TABLE>

you can go a little tighter with arp's, i usually do aroud 69 lbs - 70 lbs just to be sure.

-sander

 

I did 67 ft-lbs on mine w/ stock b16 head bolts

 

anymore suggestion on the arp studs? tighter than oem or no?

p.s. sorry to hijack the original poster's thread but i think he got his answer already

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anymore suggestion on the arp studs? tighter than oem or no?

p.s. sorry to hijack the original poster's thread but i think he got his answer already </TD></TR></TABLE>

Straight from the Sheet arp supplied with my head studs

" Use the manufactureres torque sequence but do not use the engine manufactureres torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70ft lbs for ARP MOLY assembly Lubricant or torque to 85ft lbs with 30 weight motor oil "

 

arps ive you can do them between stock and 83ft/lbs sometimes more, sometimes less

 

Thanks, I guess I'll try 85ft lbs with motor oil via oem sequence....

 

i thought it was

8 6 2 4 10 INTAKE SIDE

9 3 1 5 7 EXHAUST SIDE

torqued to 65 lbs.

thats how i did mine. runs like a champ

 

...now , after reading this thread and a couple of others, I am left with multiple specifications. All posts from Honda-Tech. Ive got "two step" and one "three-step". I also have three different finishinig torque values. I'll settle with a logical decision of using a three step sequence. However, also considering a TSB, I really dont know what torque I should finish at on a 1995 Civic Ex 1.6L VTECH.... Seriously, read all posts I could find regarding head torque/assembly. Instead of attacking the head with confidence, I am "more" insecure, now....Ive read through other posts (different) subject matter, where members have disagreed. However, by the end of the thread there has been a mutual, overall consensus on the facts....Obviously, I haven't attained that here. This should be at the very least, considering all the years and all the total experience of so many contributors, a "give me." Any suggestions? I would be willing to listen to constructive criticism regarding my reading comprehension skills in exchange for confidence..!

 

Do you have a SOHC or DOHC 1.6L engine ? The factory torque specs are greater for the DOHC than the SOHC engine. Next, are you using OE factory head bolts or an aftermarket product like ARP ? Again, depending on the material, the torque specs are different... and the number of steps may also be different than the OE process.

So far, YOU haven't provided enough information about your particular combination to the Forum here so that we can provide decisive/definitive answers for you. Your engine code and the type/brand of head bolts that you are using would be helpful.

 

Thanks for responding and thanks for the correction! Its a D16Z6 SOHC 1.6L.As far as I can tell, they are stock head bolts.When we bought the car, from the second owner, we got a manilla envelope loaded with service reciepts. It appears as though the second seller followed through in similar fashion as the first, Regarding documentation. However, I question the thoroughness. Reason being, when I removed the head, I found a 3MLS gasket. I am under the impression and I may be wrong, that those were not used by the manufacturer. There was no head gasket installation reciept in the envelope....Thank you for your time and knowledge!

 

If I remember correctly, the D16Z6 came originally with a MLS style gasket... only the D15B7 had a composite gasket between 1992 and 1995. Everything in the US from 1996+ has a MLS type gasket.