HELP...... how to put back on rotor and hub
i need help asap, currently working on it rite now, i just put on a new wheel bearing on my accord i think a 92 5spd, the passenger side, i cant seem to get the rotor/hub assembly in all the way, it goes in half way and stops, has any 1 done this before, how would i get it on all the way ? i wonder if i hammer it in will the wheel bearing mess up , i dunno i need help , tia
I have heard this to be true of the 5th generation accords.... the rotors have to be hydrolicly pressed on again. Now I have seen some shops get away without doing it, (i dont know how) but I have always been told by both Honda and alot of shops that they are pressed on. I would swallow my pride, and call honda ......
.....dont jimmy-rig it when it comes to stopping.
.....dont jimmy-rig it when it comes to stopping.
the hub assembly is pressed on genreally, but not the rotor, it is held on by 4 bolts
I have replaced the rotors on my race cars problalby 5 times without any type of press and have never had a problem with braking, and I brake harder than you can ever imagine, try 125 mph to 40 mph in about 100 feet about every 30 seconds for 25 minutes
I have replaced the rotors on my race cars problalby 5 times without any type of press and have never had a problem with braking, and I brake harder than you can ever imagine, try 125 mph to 40 mph in about 100 feet about every 30 seconds for 25 minutes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbanlegend21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the hub assembly is pressed on genreally, but not the rotor, it is held on by 4 bolts
I have replaced the rotors on my race cars problalby 5 times without any type of press and have never had a problem with braking, and I brake harder than you can ever imagine, try 125 mph to 40 mph in about 100 feet about every 30 seconds for 25 minutes</TD></TR></TABLE>
So after removing the caliper, the only thing holding on the rotor is the four bolts? Is it that easy? Never tried it before, just didnt want to mess with it and not get the brakes back on right.
I have replaced the rotors on my race cars problalby 5 times without any type of press and have never had a problem with braking, and I brake harder than you can ever imagine, try 125 mph to 40 mph in about 100 feet about every 30 seconds for 25 minutes</TD></TR></TABLE>
So after removing the caliper, the only thing holding on the rotor is the four bolts? Is it that easy? Never tried it before, just didnt want to mess with it and not get the brakes back on right.
I'm a little confused. Each post is going a different direction.
Are you going to replace the wheel bearing or just the rotor? It is possible to pull the hub off with a slide hammer and just unbolt the rotor from the hub but it is not the 'correct' way to do the job.
You have to press out the hub assembly to replace the rotor on a '92 Accord.
Remove the steering knuckle and take the assembly to a shop (this is good time to replace the wheel bearing). They will press the hub on and off so you can unbolt the rotor. Pepboys should do it for a decent price.
Or...you can do what I do. Take a 10 lb slide hammer to the Hub (most slide hammers are the 5lb variety). Remove the circlip from the bearing and beat the bearing out with an air hammer. Clean the bearing surface in the steering knuckle and use the old bearing to "tap" (<---lol) the new bearing back in. "Tap" the hub in the bearing as far as it will go and use the half shaft nut to pull everything back into shape. Flag your 5 hours and pull another one in...
Are you going to replace the wheel bearing or just the rotor? It is possible to pull the hub off with a slide hammer and just unbolt the rotor from the hub but it is not the 'correct' way to do the job.
You have to press out the hub assembly to replace the rotor on a '92 Accord.
Remove the steering knuckle and take the assembly to a shop (this is good time to replace the wheel bearing). They will press the hub on and off so you can unbolt the rotor. Pepboys should do it for a decent price.
Or...you can do what I do. Take a 10 lb slide hammer to the Hub (most slide hammers are the 5lb variety). Remove the circlip from the bearing and beat the bearing out with an air hammer. Clean the bearing surface in the steering knuckle and use the old bearing to "tap" (<---lol) the new bearing back in. "Tap" the hub in the bearing as far as it will go and use the half shaft nut to pull everything back into shape. Flag your 5 hours and pull another one in...
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