Making Good NA Power

Airflow Path (Any weak point in this path and you'll ruin your NA power)

Intake-->TB-->Manifold-->Headwork-->Cams/springs-->Header-->No Cat-->2.5+ exhaust piping-->2.5+ straight through muffler.

1) Intake: AEM or ICEMAN
2) TB: ITR or larger
3) Manifold: ITR or better
4) Headwork: RLZ, JG, HondaSaver, Portflow, Alaniz, etc
5) Cams: ef-1, RLZ, JUN, Toda, Skunk2. Their bigger cams run at tighter lobe centers, 290+ gross duration
6) Header: DC JDM 4-1 or better
7) No cat
8) Exhaust Piping: 2.5+ Inch. Accordingly Done is nice
9) Muffler: 2.5+ inch straght thru. Apexi N1 is nice

Note:
1) The more displacement the better. The bigger the bore the more air you'll flow.
2) CP pistons are real nice and help power production
3) CR doesn't need to be sky high. 10.7 - 11.5 on pump gas is fine
4) Stock ignitiion is fine with good plugs gapped at 0.035 - 0.038"
5) SPEND MONEY ON TUNING. All motors like slightly different cam, fuel and ignition settings. Hondata is my choice here.
6) Pick an engine builder who uses a good machine shop and can properly assemble everything.

Hitting 200whp on 1.794L with "low" 10.6:1 compression can be done from what I've seen.

Hopes this helps some of you guys.

 

good looking out! now how can I get your spark plugs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLMTRWHORE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> good looking out! now how can I get your spark plugs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Contact an ef-1 dealer.

From what I've seen the BVTEC motors have alot of potential. More than people think. More than what I previously thought too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Contact an ef-1 dealer.

From what I've seen the BVTEC motors have alot of potential. More than people think. More than what I previously thought too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like who? I tried contacting with no response? I would bash on that but why! just want to try them out for myself.

 

Cool.

Just PM me with your e-mail address and engine set-up and I'll e-mail you an invoice and send some out to you.

 

thanks

 

I have dynod 179.4 and 128tq tuned with a V-afc. My motor is a stock botom end jdm b18c. My engine mods consist of aem 3inch CAI, STR 70mm, Port matched Skunk 2 manifold, B & M fuel regulator (52 psi), OBD1 harness, jdm ITR header, no cat/ps (dynod with no A/C) 2.5 inch test pipe, greddy SP exhaust, Aem cam gears still at zero, and a CTR intake cam. I want to acheive 200whp with the stock bottom end, When i have the funds i want to get a 3 angle valve job with port and polish with some decent cams and bigger injectors. I hope to get 200whp with some extensive tuning of the cam gears and V-afc, the thing is that i dont just want to make the power i want the curve to be as usable as possible(daily driver) and be fast on the track not just a dyno champ. Is this possible?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hvacfunded &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have dynod 179.4 and 128tq tuned with a V-afc. My motor is a stock botom end jdm b18c. My engine mods consist of aem 3inch CAI, STR 70mm, Port matched Skunk 2 manifold, B & M fuel regulator (52 psi), OBD1 harness, jdm ITR header, no cat/ps (dynod with no A/C) 2.5 inch test pipe, greddy SP exhaust, Aem cam gears still at zero, and a CTR intake cam. I want to acheive 200whp with the stock bottom end, When i have the funds i want to get a 3 angle valve job with port and polish with some decent cams and bigger injectors. I hope to get 200whp with some extensive tuning of the cam gears and V-afc, the thing is that i dont just want to make the power i want the curve to be as usable as possible(daily driver) and be fast on the track not just a dyno champ. Is this possible?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Freshen up the motor by putting some new pistons and rings in it. OE is fine here.

ef-1 M23's or JUN3's should make you plenty fast at the drag strip.

Advancing the intake will give you more "meat" in the mid-range but your top end roll off will be steeper and you'll lose some top end hp but your car should be more responsive.

 

i would freshen up my motor but the funds are a little low right now, i have to get new mounts and am still trying to figure out my distributor. my block seems to be good i did a compression check a little while ago and 3 cylinders read 200psi and 1 cylinder reading 195 psi. What compression is a jdm b18c rated at? i heard it was 10.8?

 

I love that equation, its all the mods I have sitting in my room

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Making Good NA Power

Airflow Path (Any weak point in this path and you'll ruin your NA power)

1) Intake: AEM or ICEMAN
2) TB: ITR or larger
3) Manifold: ITR or better
4) Headwork: RLZ, JG, HondaSaver, Portflow, Alaniz, etc
5) Cams: ef-1, RLZ, JUN, Toda, Skunk2. Their bigger cams run at tighter lobe centers, 290+ gross duration
6) Header: DC JDM 4-1 or better
7) No cat
8) Exhaust Piping: 2.5+ Inch. Accordingly Done is nice
9) Muffler: 2.5+ inch straght thru. Apexi N1 is nice


</TD></TR></TABLE>

On the same topic....make sure to port-match TB-&gt;Manifold-&gt;Head....Dont get too big a TB....if you SK2 manifold if 65mm.....65mm TB should suffice when port matched....slightly bigger is ok but i wouldnt go over 68mm...and if that i would want it tapered to the IM.....68-&gt;65mm....boring the stock TB is really cheap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eyewitness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

On the same topic....make sure to port-match TB-&gt;Manifold-&gt;Head....Dont get too big a TB....if you SK2 manifold if 65mm.....65mm TB should suffice when port matched....slightly bigger is ok but i wouldnt go over 68mm...and if that i would want it tapered to the IM.....68-&gt;65mm....boring the stock TB is really cheap</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. I kinda took that as a given.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hvacfunded &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would freshen up my motor but the funds are a little low right now, i have to get new mounts and am still trying to figure out my distributor. my block seems to be good i did a compression check a little while ago and 3 cylinders read 200psi and 1 cylinder reading 195 psi. What compression is a jdm b18c rated at? i heard it was 10.8?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Still change the pistons to freshen it up.

 

Do you think a 65mm bored out OE TB would be enough for 200hp w/ all the goodies listed above, including portmatching everything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you think a 65mm bored out OE TB would be enough for 200hp w/ all the goodies listed above, including portmatching everything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

65mm or larger is preferred. We started to run out of air with the ITR TB.

 

If i remember correctly i noticed that when i put on my intake manifold, that the intake ports on my p72 head where shaped different from my skunk 2 manifold, am i right? what do you mean tapered?

Yeah i regret getting the 70mm tb (overkill) but its too late i already port matched the inlet on my manifold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

65mm or larger is preferred. We started to run out of air with the ITR TB.</TD></TR></TABLE>


ITR=62mm....This is the smallest size i would run personally....matching it to the IM will only improve gains...i believe most aftermarket manifolds are around 65mm....there not too much point having a TB much bigger than the IM inlet....very good info though ....thanx

 

what if i wanna run a stock air box?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if i wanna run a stock air box?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. Need a good flowing K&N type filter.

 

hey rocket...i tried to pm u but Htech won't allow that cuz of my newbie status, and emailing doesn't work at ur yahoo.com address...if u can just give me a holler or help me w/a question i have about Denso IK20 spark plugs for a 5th gen prelude, it'd be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

Can you give some insight about cams? I see that for all of those 290+duration cams, some manufacturer produce the same cam for both intake and exhaust, some produce intake with longer duration than exhaust and others have longer duration exhaust than intake. What's the advantages of one over the other, different peaks, etc?

 

thanks Rocket that was insightfull

 

up

 

How well do ITR manifolds usually match the ports on the head? And how do you go about checking?

 

good post shows the basic theory, the more air and fuel the engine can use efficently the more power it will make