looking to get a rex rolling chassis as soon as possible

ef si tranny
d16z6 preferably over the y8 (wiring)
turbo panda hybrid toyota supra piston/b16 rod combo
greddy 92-95 ex/si turbo kit


ive researched all i can about this set up, but i want to know is there anything else i need to know before i dive into this project?

any words of wisdom, anything would help thnx


d16z6 stock block can hold up to 22psi. turbo panda and others can vouch for that

so im going to run 16-18psi to be safe. looking at around 300hp says turbopanda. in a little rex. sounds like a good time to me!

 

with good tuning this is possible...plan on a standalone ecu. it is not the boost that kills these... it is detonation.
keep us posted

 

explain to me a little more about standalone please

 

well you dont need a full stand alone, im planning on doing the same setup but im gonna do the hondata s200 with the boost option, its a lot cheaper and easier than the other FM systems, i was gonna put a block gaurd in mine though, what do you mean about the supra pistons? do they fit the D-series, maybe i need to look around some more

 

yea i am also using a block guard.

certain supra pistons that are only available in thailand and japan (talk to turbopanda) with special machined b16 rods fit dseries and can hold alot of boost.

 

Dang the internals are that strong to take 22psi? I mean I know supra pistons probably are but B16 rods? What is the compression on the Supra pistons?

 

ok elaberate, cuz you have all of our full attention at this time

z6 block 22psi
supra pistons well there good cuz there out a turbo themselves alot of psi lol
and what kinda rods? i mean you say b16 will they hold 16-18 psi

i want a run down on this does turbo panda have a site he's set up with this or pics anything

i want to go turbo, havn't decided what motor either z6 or a1 so id like to know more so i can decide

 

That's what I'm wondering about the B16 rods. I don't know if they can take that much PSI. It's possible they might. Even though detonation kills an engine the quickest, pushing N/A internals beyond their means will mess up an engine just as quick. I would say that instead of using stock B16 rods you look for forged B16 rods since they'll be much stronger than stock. I'm curious as well to see some links about the 22psi engine since I'm a turbo fanatic

 

TTT

 

I too am a little skeptical about the 18 psi on a b16 rod I read above that you said they machine the rods to fit the supra pisons now can you just get an aftermarket (eagle h-beam) rod for a b16 and machine that for a little more strength?

 

they are re machined b16 rods and have held up to 22 psi before. he only boosts that much at the track but daily u can run 18-20. im going to run 16-18, no need to overwork it.

there is much more involved then what u all read.

like i said search fro threads by turbopanda. and u will see an 11 page one on hybrid internals for d16

 

ok guys lets remeber he is planning to run this much boost from a greddy turbo.a t3/t4 or something similar would destroy those piston walls eventually running 18lbs.tuning is key.

 

Can that little Greddy turbo even push 16psi? lol I had a 94 CX hatch with a greddy kit and greddy fmic, and the turbo seemed to run out of steam at about 7k rpm @ 8psi. If you're going to push that much boost get a decent sized turbo. 16psi seems like it's way far out of the efficiency range of the little greddy turbo.

 

the b16 rods handle that much becuz of the low compression from the supra pistons..the height is 1mm less than the d16 pistons so with a thick headgasket on the z6 u get about a 8.2: comp. ratio..perfect for high boost...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phatrick2332 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b16 rods handle that much becuz of the low compression from the supra pistons..the height is 1mm less than the d16 pistons so with a thick headgasket on the z6 u get about a 8.2: comp. ratio..perfect for high boost...</TD></TR></TABLE>

its all about the block guard on this set up

also i plan on upgrading the turbo set up slowely

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can that little Greddy turbo even push 16psi? lol I had a 94 CX hatch with a greddy kit and greddy fmic, and the turbo seemed to run out of steam at about 7k rpm @ 8psi. If you're going to push that much boost get a decent sized turbo. 16psi seems like it's way far out of the efficiency range of the little greddy turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just thinking the same thing yesterday but I can't post more than 5 times a say so I couldn't keep in on the convo

that turbo is only 15G so it might be able to push the 22psi but the efficiency is going to be way down comparative to if it was an 18G. It's like with the turb oon the 2G Eclipse - yeah it spools early and yeah you can take it to 15psi or so but it's proven that after 10psi the efficency drops so much you're actually causing more harm than good.

Also is this 22psi on a non-sleeved block? I would think that those kind of pressures on a stock block would eventually cause some serious damage...heck even 15psi is pushing it

 

Mugensport9: Do some research before you spend all that money and end up with a slow car with a blown motor!! If you have ever driven a d16z6 with a greddy turbo kit, you would know that asking the turbo to push anymore than 9-10psi is a big mistake Get you block sleeved and used a t3/t4 turbo instead!!!

 

i think you need to rethink this a little man i was pretty excited to hear about this , but now im kinda like it's ok ill just boost a mini me and be happy, cuz i think the rods are gonna go for sure, you wanna know why i think that, cuz you say it's held 22 lbs before, well that's great but i don't think they were made to handle that, i think if you used eagle rods made for a b16, then youd be straight, i just think it's to much for those rods, and the turbo is kinda small, i didn't even see that yseterday. it's a great idea on paper, it needs to be refined, mainly rods and turbo, im not saying that it wont happen or it can't happen, to tell you the truth i want to see this more then anything, your headed in the right direction i just think you need a little more research, don't use something cuz it can hold it, 22lbs is probably past the exceeding limit on those rods, find something stronger, or youll rebuild it later and be mad at us lol

it just wont be reliable

 

I agree with SiRex91 and Dr. D - you're gonna pay more in the long run to save a few $$ now. Like SiRex91 said, sleeve the engine and get a T3/T4 then just get forged rods for either the b16 like Dr. D said or just get them for your stock motor. The T3/T4 can boost MUCH more than the little 15G can and it does it without sacrafice to efficiency at the cost of a slightly longer spool time on the turbo.

And hey if the setup you're talking about works then that's fine and dandy but I would rather pay $3500 and have a properly built engine with a good turbo setup than pay $1500 for a hybrid engine and a lower end turbo setup.

 

like i said before. im going to first run lower boost because i need a better engine managment and i dont want it to run too lean up top.

i also am going to upgrade the turbo set up slowely. but even when i do im not going to pass 18 psi. it will hold 22psi but with great tunning. this is the set up they do in thai land and the more i read about it, the more i like it.

this block will hold alot of boost. the main things to worry about is the deck height. with this set up u need a blockguard and it runs about 8:1 comp. it is tqless so smaller turbos could be the right thing in this set up. but also, u have to make sure that u dont get lean when u get into higher rpms. top of 4th and 5th on the freeway could be cadastrophic if it gets lean.

im going to get hondata and make sure it gets tuned right.

 

kagegod sirex

dude mugensport9


take care of things the first time instead of jiggy riggin this monster your creating, it needs stronger components, im gonna agree with kagegod here, i much rather pay 3500 or even 4500 to do EVERYTHING right the first time, then f**k everything up, if you don't listen what can i say were not your parents here but you have had comments from a few people that think this is just a bad idea, not that this idea is bad, but that the idea surrounding it, as in

BUILD IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME

dude if your gonna build it up in stages build the motor first, take the block get the pistons and good rods together and get them machined balance it, blah blah blah put it together slowly, it's not a race, take your time and read some more, id hate to see someone with a good idea jump into something he wasn't prepared for alot of us wait and wait and wait, until we can't think straight cuz we want to do something right now, but if you wait i think youll be happier you did it the right way


cliff notes:take time build right, were not lecturing you, you did ask for our help, just putting in the change jar that's my 5.00 bucks

GOOD LUCK

 

i see where u guys are comming from.
the thing is. the hype about this set up is that non sleved it can hold alot of boost. the rods are remachined. its overall not a bad set up

the one thing i can see me doing is saving for the turbo set up and getting a much better one. something that wont crap out

the reason im not looking to sleve and get other piston/rods etc is because there is something that goes along with me building this hybrid motor and just having fun not spending a fortune. im going to be honing myself and notching the block myself also. this all is just kinda for me to say i did it myself. and with this set up i have some reasurance because i know of more then just thai land hype, there are others here who have this and are very very happy.

maybe i should look into getting a better turbo set up. but durring the time i spend on saving i could have a one running and be set on low boost and then just buying my upgrade parts in bulk. installing them all at once and then tunning the shiz out of it. plus that will add to the whole do it myself, experimental, teach myself idea that im going for here.

 

If you are only boosting below 10psi, get a greddy kit. But if you are going above that, go with a t3/t4. I drove a d16z6 motor with a greddy kit daily for three years. I know how that turbo acts. It is great for low boost, but that's it. Save your money and put together a kit with t3/t4. Do you realize that once you spend $1000+ on a greddy kit and find out the turbo can't give you any power at that high of boost you have to buy a whole new turbo kit??

Also, Turbo Panda is from Asia, and I'm pretty sure they use much higher octane gas (like Japan) than the US. That probably has something to do with why he could push 14-15psi on just pistons and rods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are only boosting below 10psi, get a greddy kit. But if you are going above that, go with a t3/t4. I drove a d16z6 motor with a greddy kit daily for three years. I know how that turbo acts. It is great for low boost, but that's it. Save your money and put together a kit with t3/t4. Do you realize that once you spend $1000+ on a greddy kit and find out the turbo can't give you any power at that high of boost you have to buy a whole new turbo kit??

Also, Turbo Panda is from Asia, and I'm pretty sure they use much higher octane gas (like Japan) than the US. That probably has something to do with why he could push 14-15psi on just pistons and rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, Turbo Panda is from Asia, and I'm pretty sure they use much higher octane gas (like Japan) than the US. That probably has something to do with why he could push 14-15psi on just pistons and rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>


You are intending to get an FMIC with the GReddy kit correct? From what I have seen the straight turbo kit does not include the FMIC and you have to purchase that seperately. For the PSI numbers you're talking about, without an FMIC you're going to either have to buy higher octane gas than 92 or have massive injectors and be dumping a ton of fuel into the engine. Either way it's way to expensive.