Crank Pulley and a gasket questions
Ok, we yanked the old block last night. Today during lunch I went home to try to get the *big bolt* out to get the crank pulley and everything off. Now, the book says it is tightned at 181 ft lbs, but we can not get this thing out. We have the impact and compressor turned up the entire way and it wont come out.
This thing is not reverse threaded is it?
(honda put this thing together last time)
which brings up my next question.
There is a gasket that looks like it goes inbetween the timecover and the block. Well apparently this gasket is missing (thanks honda). How much problem can this cause? And can I order just this gasket?
This thing is not reverse threaded is it?
(honda put this thing together last time)
which brings up my next question.
There is a gasket that looks like it goes inbetween the timecover and the block. Well apparently this gasket is missing (thanks honda). How much problem can this cause? And can I order just this gasket?
you can unscrew that bolt when you block the pully and take looooong bar 
Gasket: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...83%29
Do you mean part 2 or 5? You can buy it separately.
Cheers
pentaq

Gasket: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...83%29
Do you mean part 2 or 5? You can buy it separately.
Cheers
pentaq
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can unscrew that bolt when you block the pully and take looooong bar 
Gasket: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...83%29
Do you mean part 2 or 5? You can buy it separately.
Cheers
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.. that would be the gasket.. thank you
we are going to try the LONG *** BAR method tonight...
uhhhggggg.. if this does not work, we are going to drive the engine over to honda and tell them to break it lose since they were the bastards that put it on.

Gasket: http://www.hondaautomotivepart...83%29
Do you mean part 2 or 5? You can buy it separately.
Cheers
pentaq</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.. that would be the gasket.. thank you
we are going to try the LONG *** BAR method tonight...
uhhhggggg.. if this does not work, we are going to drive the engine over to honda and tell them to break it lose since they were the bastards that put it on.
a REALLY big impact wrench.
i had to borrow a 800 ft lb impact wrench to get mine loose. i had to turn up the borrowed air compressor up to 175psi. -diesel powered IR industrial air compressors on trailers kick serious ***.
but now i can just get it off and on with my 500ft lb wrench.
i had to borrow a 800 ft lb impact wrench to get mine loose. i had to turn up the borrowed air compressor up to 175psi. -diesel powered IR industrial air compressors on trailers kick serious ***.

but now i can just get it off and on with my 500ft lb wrench.
I saw my mechanic unscrewing that bolt in Civic few days ago. He put a rod in the hole in the pully (it blocked itself on oil pan) and took huge bar and it took seconds to break it loose. Unfortunately Prelude pullies have are only drilled a bit (don't have a hole), so here is a trap.
pentaq
pentaq
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lildrgn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, and yall should be proud. I am actually doing work on my own engine...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
About time!
I don't have that gasket on my timing cover either and it has promoted zero problems. I would get some WD-40 or something of that nature and soak the bolt for a while. Then do as everyone else has stated. I am assuming the motor is still in the car, right? A little trick i do is using a breaker bar then taking the top half of my jack and making a longer length beam for additional torque. Honda usually just takes an impact gun to the crank pulley bolt, they never actually 'torque' it to spec.
</TD></TR></TABLE>About time!
I don't have that gasket on my timing cover either and it has promoted zero problems. I would get some WD-40 or something of that nature and soak the bolt for a while. Then do as everyone else has stated. I am assuming the motor is still in the car, right? A little trick i do is using a breaker bar then taking the top half of my jack and making a longer length beam for additional torque. Honda usually just takes an impact gun to the crank pulley bolt, they never actually 'torque' it to spec.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GudeH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda usually just takes an impact gun to the crank pulley bolt, they never actually 'torque' it to spec.</TD></TR></TABLE>
have you seen how much those torque wrenches cost that'll do 181 ft lbs?
have you seen how much those torque wrenches cost that'll do 181 ft lbs?
Yes i have. That's why i use my buddies for anything over 120 ft/lbs.
Also, you can always go to home depot/lowes and get a high torque wrench, use it once, then return it. Thats what i did for my axles once, hehe.
Also, you can always go to home depot/lowes and get a high torque wrench, use it once, then return it. Thats what i did for my axles once, hehe.
Well I did mine in the car. I just took the breaker bar put it on the bolt. I sat down in front of the car Kinda lying down. Pushed the bar with my foot. Took about 2 mins to get it off.
If I was going to do it with the motor out. I would find a way to secure the motor so it couldn't move at all. Put the breaker bar on so it stuck out on the rear side of the motor. Then lift up using leg strength. It's a lot more effective than standing on the bar.
If I was going to do it with the motor out. I would find a way to secure the motor so it couldn't move at all. Put the breaker bar on so it stuck out on the rear side of the motor. Then lift up using leg strength. It's a lot more effective than standing on the bar.
my method of removing breaker bar:
step one: lock flywheel
step two: go to home depot, and buy a 10 foot fence pole for $3. Have them cut it to 5 feet.
step three: have someone stand on engine stand to keep it from flipping over. try to get it off.
step four: go buy new breaker bar & socket
repeat 3 - 4 until you buy a quality socket & bar
step one: lock flywheel
step two: go to home depot, and buy a 10 foot fence pole for $3. Have them cut it to 5 feet.
step three: have someone stand on engine stand to keep it from flipping over. try to get it off.
step four: go buy new breaker bar & socket
repeat 3 - 4 until you buy a quality socket & bar
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my method of removing breaker bar:
step one: lock flywheel
step two: go to home depot, and buy a 10 foot fence pole for $3. Have them cut it to 5 feet.
step three: have someone stand on engine stand to keep it from flipping over. try to get it off.
step four: go buy new breaker bar & socket
repeat 3 - 4 until you buy a quality socket & bar
</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh, Kobalt 1/2" breaker bars suck. i broke 2 of them trying get the spindle nut loose. Lowes honored the lifetime warranty on 'em.
step one: lock flywheel
step two: go to home depot, and buy a 10 foot fence pole for $3. Have them cut it to 5 feet.
step three: have someone stand on engine stand to keep it from flipping over. try to get it off.
step four: go buy new breaker bar & socket
repeat 3 - 4 until you buy a quality socket & bar
</TD></TR></TABLE>heh, Kobalt 1/2" breaker bars suck. i broke 2 of them trying get the spindle nut loose. Lowes honored the lifetime warranty on 'em.
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