EBay- Type R rear strut bar ***
recently i've seen some people bash the ebay "type r" strut bars and i just wanted to put in my thoughts. They said they're just a hollow tube, but they're not. They're more like the real ITR bars w/the 3 different chambers inside the bar. These are a slightly different color than the real ones though, these are a little more golden than sliver. I used to have one of those generic rear strut bars w/the single bolt pivot point on each end and that didn't really do anything. I wanted one that was unhinged like the ITR, so i thought i'd try this, it can't be too much different than the real thing... After all it is just a bar and some end brackets, both of the same style as ITR. Fitment was great and it's sturdy as hell. For $25 i dont think it's bad at all. *shrug*
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i can vouch on that bar. got a front and rear in my teg right now. theres a noticeable increase in chassis rigidity, but nothing major. for the price you can get them for on ebay, its a good buy.
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Thanks for the compliments guys, and yea it did seem to firm up the ride a little. Next thing i'm doing is cutting the plastic strut tower covers so these can stick out through them like on JDM ITR's. And does anyone know where to get some of that rubber molding that goes around the edge to make it look better? I was thinking Home Depot might have it but i havn't checked yet...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Volcom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, $15.95 to ship that thing
I'd buy one but my sub box is in the way</TD></TR></TABLE>
Still better than payin ~$150 for the OEM one, IMO.
Modified by ALL MOTOR LS at 12:53 AM 9/12/2003
I'd buy one but my sub box is in the way</TD></TR></TABLE>
Still better than payin ~$150 for the OEM one, IMO.
Modified by ALL MOTOR LS at 12:53 AM 9/12/2003
home depot should have some rubber moulding for sure...check the hardware department (not the tools part of hardware, but door **** like *****, numbers, etc) or in the window and door section...the **** is cross-merchandised between the two departments (millworks & hardware)...i work for one here in georgia, and ours is smaller than most other hds, so if we have it, i'm more than assuming others will.
how about this one its looks like its cheaper and u get the front and rear http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...yment
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE94GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about this one its looks like its cheaper and u get the front and rear http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...yment </TD></TR></TABLE>
Assuming the tube isn't hollow, that's a real good deal. I woulda done something like that, but I already have a Comptech front strut bar.
And yes, the Type R subs BUMP hella nice
Assuming the tube isn't hollow, that's a real good deal. I woulda done something like that, but I already have a Comptech front strut bar.
And yes, the Type R subs BUMP hella nice
Just a FYI
Neouser interviewed comptech and they said that there is no need for a rear strut tower bar on integras.
http://www.hondalife.com/Compt...w.mpg
Neouser interviewed comptech and they said that there is no need for a rear strut tower bar on integras.
http://www.hondalife.com/Compt...w.mpg
Yeah there is no NEED for one but it does help in rotating the rear suspension.
I highly doubt the bar is sturdy because the OEM ones are pretty flimsy.
I highly doubt the bar is sturdy because the OEM ones are pretty flimsy.
We dont NEED lots of things we put on our cars. but we do anyway. Tie bars, does anyone actually notice a difference with one? 5-Lug conversion, JDM y0. The list goes on. I know what your saying though. It was cheap, seems to make a minor difference, and it looks good
so i'm not too worried about it.
and it seems sturdy enough to me. I put enough weight on it to compress my H&R Race springs a little and it didn't even really bend down at all. I could prolly stand on it and it'd be fine.
so i'm not too worried about it.and it seems sturdy enough to me. I put enough weight on it to compress my H&R Race springs a little and it didn't even really bend down at all. I could prolly stand on it and it'd be fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah there is no NEED for one but it does help in rotating the rear suspension.
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I think you misunderstand. Comptech says that the rear strut bar isn't need in the sense that mounting a bar from your seat mounting points isn't needed. They won't do anything so why use them?
There is a common misconception that ANY suspension mod in the rear = better rotation.
Sway / Springs / Shocks do completely different things than tie bars and strut braces. Chassis flex and latteral load transfer are different.
A strut bars specific function is to prevent the shock towers from flexing inwards towards each other under heavy turning. When that happens alignment is effect negatively and traction suffers.
So what would determine if a rear strut bar is necissary is if under heavy cornering the rear suspension caused the towers to flex.
Things to consider
The front suspension also has the added task of turning the car, where the rear just has to follow behind.
The front suspension also has the upper control arms which receive a great amount of force under turning, bolted right below the shock towers as well. (Which is why the neuspeed front tower bar bolts to the UCA's not the shock tower itself).
The rear suspension UCA attaches to the side of the chassis. So the only time that the chassis is going to flex where these bars brace is if the whole shock assembly itself has enough latteral force inwards.
If it did, the strut bar would cause it to have better traction in the rear, not worse.
Honestly I can't say I know for sure it does/doesn't make a difference as I have not done any testing. The fact that comptech doesn't sell a product that would no doubt make them money, is a strong indicator in my book though.
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I think you misunderstand. Comptech says that the rear strut bar isn't need in the sense that mounting a bar from your seat mounting points isn't needed. They won't do anything so why use them?
There is a common misconception that ANY suspension mod in the rear = better rotation.
Sway / Springs / Shocks do completely different things than tie bars and strut braces. Chassis flex and latteral load transfer are different.
A strut bars specific function is to prevent the shock towers from flexing inwards towards each other under heavy turning. When that happens alignment is effect negatively and traction suffers.
So what would determine if a rear strut bar is necissary is if under heavy cornering the rear suspension caused the towers to flex.
Things to consider
The front suspension also has the added task of turning the car, where the rear just has to follow behind.
The front suspension also has the upper control arms which receive a great amount of force under turning, bolted right below the shock towers as well. (Which is why the neuspeed front tower bar bolts to the UCA's not the shock tower itself).
The rear suspension UCA attaches to the side of the chassis. So the only time that the chassis is going to flex where these bars brace is if the whole shock assembly itself has enough latteral force inwards.
If it did, the strut bar would cause it to have better traction in the rear, not worse.
Honestly I can't say I know for sure it does/doesn't make a difference as I have not done any testing. The fact that comptech doesn't sell a product that would no doubt make them money, is a strong indicator in my book though.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE94GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about this one its looks like its cheaper and u get the front and rear http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...yment </TD></TR></TABLE>
the front one looks decent, but the back one looks like a piece of ****. the mounts look extremely weak.
the front one looks decent, but the back one looks like a piece of ****. the mounts look extremely weak.



nice subs.