Hey guys, replacing timing belt later this week. Since I'm already in there, what parts besides the timing belt and water pump should I go ahead and replace? I'm going to replace the driver side mount also. I'm getting alot of movement in the engine bay, and I though it was all the mounts gone, but the dealer said, most likely it's just the driver side mount that is shot. Anyone know what other parts I should go ahead and replace? Thanks for the help

 

I replaced the crankshaft oil seal behind the timing belt sprocket. When I pulled mine out it was seeping oil ever so slightly. The seal is about $8.00.
J

 

besides timing belt and water pump, i also replaced tensioner

 

Your going to replace the entire mount? Just get some Prothane inserts and be done with it. You should be good with just the tbelt, water pump, and tensioner. Have fun getting the crank pulley off!

 

Do you have any tips how to get the crank pulley off to replace the belt, with regular tools?

 

Please, someone do share tips on how to get this off? Found parts cheaper online from HPARTS, checked on labor at a couple of dealerships and they want a couple of hundred for labor. Any special tool to take crank pulley off?

 

My favorite tip, break the crank pulley bolt loose while the engine is still warm. It makes a huge difference.

Remove the flywheel inspection plate and jam a large screwdriver in there to keep in from spinning. Use a large breaker bar on the bolt, I use a 3/4" drive bar that's 2 feet long.

 

I like to replace all the cooling system hoses at the same time as the TB/WP. Not because there are huge labor savings (like there are with the water pump), but just because the service interval seems about right, and it makes it easy to remember when you last did this service. The timing belt and water pump are done at the longest service interval, usually 90-105K miles or 6-7 years, whichever comes first, and that seems about right for replacing cooling system hoses (which don't have an interval specified by the factory). It's a good, inexpensive preventive measure. If you've ever blown a hose at an inconvenient time - and it ALWAYS happens at an inconvenient time - you already know this.

And you get at least a little bit of savings by doing it at the same time as the water pump, because you have to flush the coolant with either operation...

 

For the crank pulley, I used an impact gun. Came off in seconds.

 

Good point, now have to order more parts from HPARTS. Anyone use them by the way?

Impact gun huh. I have one, wonder if it puts out enough torque? I've been using it for years and never bothered to check how much torque it puts out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My favorite tip, break the crank pulley bolt loose while the engine is still warm. It makes a huge difference.

Remove the flywheel inspection plate and jam a large screwdriver in there to keep in from spinning. Use a large breaker bar on the bolt, I use a 3/4" drive bar that's 2 feet long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't putting the car in a high gear be sufficient? Unless the clutch slips I guess.

-Nick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My favorite tip, break the crank pulley bolt loose while the engine is still warm. It makes a huge difference.

Remove the flywheel inspection plate and jam a large screwdriver in there to keep in from spinning. Use a large breaker bar on the bolt, I use a 3/4" drive bar that's 2 feet long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really? while the engine is warm? But I want to do a valve adjustment too. So "while the engine is warm" is not an option for me.

How about the tensioner spring? Should I replace that too?

I'm going to order my parts from http://www.importedcarparts.com/
Parts are cheap and you can buy almost all OEM items from there (It shows up as OES in your cart)

Here are the list of parts I'm going to buy when I change my Timing belt.
T-Belt, Tensioner Srping, Tensioner, Water Pump, Distributor Cap & Rotor, Valve cover gasket set, PCV Valve, spark plugs and fuel filter.
I think that's all the major stuff. Did I forget anything?

 

Engaging 5th gear is not enough to hold the crank if your front wheels are off the ground unless you have a friend stand on the brakes. Even then, it's not as effective as jamming the screwdriver in the flywheel.

Yes your engine must be bone cold to do a valve adjustment. You can still take advantage breaking the crank pulley bolt loose while the engine is warm by breaking the bolt loose right after you park the car after the last time you drive it. By the time your engine is bone cold to work on the valve lash, you should be done replacing the timing belt. Just plan ahead a little, that's all it takes.

 

When i do the timing belt on my car im getting the crank pulley holder, jaming a screwdriver in the flywheel doesnt sound so great to me.

 

As others have said, T-belt, tensioner, water pump and then I might even replace the seals for the cam and crank while I'm there. No sense in going back 3 months later for a seal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As others have said, T-belt, tensioner, water pump and then I might even replace the seals for the cam and crank while I'm there. No sense in going back 3 months later for a seal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was just going to say the same thing.

 

when the impact gun did not have enough torque to take the crank bolt, did i put the car i 5gear and a buddy slammed the brakes. i would rather do that insetad of jaming a screwdriver in my flywheel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silentblackhat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i do the timing belt on my car im getting the crank pulley holder, jaming a screwdriver in the flywheel doesnt sound so great to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

requires two people, one to hold the screwdriver in place and the other to break the pulley bolt, but works for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whitelightning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

requires two people, one to hold the screwdriver in place and the other to break the pulley bolt, but works for me </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have a big enough flat head, you can do it yourself if jammed in the right spot.

&lt;&lt;&lt;did mine myself this weekend

 

When we do a timing belt service at the dealership, we replace the front main seal and camshaft seals.

EDIT: Accessory belts too.

 

Also get the 4 seals for the spark plugs on the valve cover. They are dirt cheap, size of a quarter each.

And yes- also change the 3 accessory belts. PLanning on doing my T-belt etc. oin a few months also.

 

When's a good time to replace the timing belt btw? Usually I do mine at 60k but someone told me I would be good up to 100k on my R... I've got close to 80K so far on mine but I don't think I'll wait til 100k.

 

I know this is the Integra forum but...on my civic it says 105K miles shouls be when u change ur t-belt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjektR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When's a good time to replace the timing belt btw? Usually I do mine at 60k but someone told me I would be good up to 100k on my R... I've got close to 80K so far on mine but I don't think I'll wait til 100k. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you like to gamble? I don't remember exactly what the Helms says but look at it this way, it's preventative maintenance. I'd replace it around 60-70k, depending on how it looks. Only takes a few minutes to check the belt out, so I'd check it say every 15k and determine it from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd replace it around 60-70k, depending on how it looks. Only takes a few minutes to check the belt out, so I'd check it say every 15k and determine it from there. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats a good idea also. Im going to change mine every 60K miles after this. i bought mine used. The weird thing is that my car has 105K miles on it and it still has the origional belt on it...yet it looks almost brand new; its in very good condition. idk how tho.