I think my power slot rotors are warped, can I have them resurfaced?

If I can't, what would you guys recommend I replace them with? I would like something bigger but I have stock wheels (99 si).

Brembo blanks maybe?

 

they aren't warped...rotors don't warp (contrary to popular belief), instead the pad material overheats and bonds to the surface of the rotor causing uneven spots.

your rotors/pads were probably not properly seasoned/bedded.

yes, best option now is probably to resurface.

 

so when you have your brake rotors "turned" they're just taking off brake pad material?
ummm....no.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your rotors/pads were probably not properly seasoned/bedded.

yes, best option now is probably to resurface.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, I had thought I did a pretty good job breaking them in - I put power slots all around and aem pads (all new) and did the standard 500 mile light breaking.


So they can be resurfaced? Thats what I'll be doing then.

But I too thought when they resurface them they grind (for lack of a better word) every part of the surface down enough to make it all uniform again (bringing down any risen (warped) spots).

 

They do indeed turn them and remove material. That's how they remove the bonded pad material. I've heard of people grinding PowerSlot rotors before but I've also heard it eats the turning machine's blades so not every place will do it for you. Just call around first.

I concur - rotors do not 'warp'. Do a search on the user 'stoptech' and read the excellent tech articles he posted on StopTech's website. Or, more easy for you, here's the link StopTech article I'm not trying to be a dink, just FYI

 

well when you break them in you need to get them up to temperature, so you actually need to increase braking aggressiveness(but gradually) till they get really hot.

another thing you are supposed to do is never come to a complete stop with the brakes pressed down. the pad imprints and ruins the break-in process. likewise after break-in dont put the parking brake up. it will ruin it.

the break-in process is more like 10-12 sets of acceleration then slow downs within a couple miles. Each time you get up to more speed and brake more firmly up to the threshold before abs kicks in, not 500miles light braking.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b3435 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well, I had thought I did a pretty good job breaking them in - I put power slots all around and aem pads (all new) and did the standard 500 mile light breaking.


So they can be resurfaced? Thats what I'll be doing then.

But I too thought when they resurface them they grind (for lack of a better word) every part of the surface down enough to make it all uniform again (bringing down any risen (warped) spots).</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they aren't warped...rotors don't warp (contrary to popular belief), instead the pad material overheats and bonds to the surface of the rotor causing uneven spots.

your rotors/pads were probably not properly seasoned/bedded.

yes, best option now is probably to resurface.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol no

when you heat metal, it expands, when you cool it, it shrinks. if you cool 1 part and keep another super heated. it changes the surface.

rotors can warp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol no

when you heat metal, it expands, when you cool it, it shrinks. if you cool 1 part and keep another super heated. it changes the surface.

rotors can warp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope....pads molecularly bond to metal. hahahaha.....
sorry.
listen to kamin on this...rotors warp. powerslot does not recommend re-surfacing their rotors...but it can be done.

 

yes you can have them turned and all slotted drilled rotors tend to become uneven for some reason...doesn anyone know why?

 

Kamin, did you read the StopTech link I posted? I tend to believe a brake kit manufacturer...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

hmm not that i dont trust stoptech, cause i do. smart people. bought hundreds of dollars worth of stuff form them. but i have NEVER seen anyone else talk about that. i know about pad heat transfer, but what i was always taught was if a rotor is heated, then not cooled properly, it can warp metal.

i had a set of 4 warped rotors, NO evidnce of this pad transfer, totally smooth consitent metal surface that showed variations with a dial gauge. even had heat burn marks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n1ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
powerslot does not recommend re-surfacing their rotors...but it can be done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why don't they reccomend it?
Should I have it done, or should I buy new ones?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well when you break them in you need to get them up to temperature, so you actually need to increase braking aggressiveness(but gradually) till they get really hot.

another thing you are supposed to do is never come to a complete stop with the brakes pressed down. the pad imprints and ruins the break-in process. likewise after break-in dont put the parking brake up. it will ruin it.

the break-in process is more like 10-12 sets of acceleration then slow downs within a couple miles. Each time you get up to more speed and brake more firmly up to the threshold before abs kicks in, not 500miles light braking.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have any links to break in articles? BTW, 99 si's don't have abs

 

MOST OF THE TIME...people are overheating their pads and the material is bonding to the surface of the rotor, causing shuddering, commonly referred to as "warpage"

Assuming proper seasoning of the rotor, you don't think cast iron can take the heat? I'm scratching my head to that one, especially considering all the V8's out there with cylinder walls smaller than the thickness of my rotors...don't see too many of them warping under similar temps.

many times the pad material bonding is on the "molecular level" ... there's no way calipers would pick this up. it's measurable only by the difference in friction, or "shuddering"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MOST OF THE TIME...people are overheating their pads and the material is bonding to the surface of the rotor, causing shuddering, commonly referred to as "warpage"

Assuming proper seasoning of the rotor, you don't think cast iron can take the heat? I'm scratching my head to that one, especially considering all the V8's out there with cylinder walls smaller than the thickness of my rotors...don't seen too many of them warping under similar temps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cylinders are surrounded in coolant

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">under similar temps</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

so if rotors don't warp, and when you get them resurfaced you just shave off the brake pad matter, then why can you get them done a few times before they are too thin? eh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if rotors don't warp, and when you get them resurfaced you just shave off the brake pad matter, then why can you get them done a few times before they are too thin? eh? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no.
rotors warp.
two peice rotors don't do it as fast....but at a certain heat and usage...they warp.
tweak, can't anyone make a brake pad with material that doesn't stick to rotors so they never "warp"?

 

Brake pads are designed to stick to rotors Otherwise they wouldn't be 'brake' pads would they?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake pads are designed to stick to rotors Otherwise they wouldn't be 'brake' pads would they? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no...brake pads and rotors are designed to turn mechanical energy into heat energy. Pads do not "stick" to rotors. They create huge amounts of heat and friction thus stopping the car.
if they just binded to rotors, cars would skid to a stop and not roll again.
if you race then leave your ebrake up afterwards do the hot pads bind to the rotors???no.
they heat up one area...leading to warping.

 

dosent really matter, the coolant is there to keep the engine temprature regulated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n1ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tweak, can't anyone make a brake pad with material that doesn't stick to rotors so they never "warp"?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but the coefficient of friction is great enough that the pads begin to wear the rotors.

Can rotors warp? YES! I know, I agree, BUT most cases of "warping" are from insufficient pads that overheat.

 

Soo, since im in the same scenerio, ( have a set of Brembo drilled and slotted, ) my brakes have less than 12,000 miles on them. Should I look into gettting mine resurfaced, or just get a whole new set. I have lots of shuddering and vibration when braking. I am using the Hawk HPS pads on the front and EBC Greenstuff in rear. If i can resurface that would be great, if not, i guess it's time to cough up another $400. bucks.

Thanks, and sorry if I Jack your Thread.

 

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b3435 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you have any links to break in articles? BTW, 99 si's don't have abs</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Hate to tell those who don't believe rotors warp...but they do. I have personal experience with both situations...

My current rotors (just bought power stop and AEM pads) are warped, grooved and have pad clumps on them...it all started after Les Schawb over torqued my front tires after fixing a flat(forgot to ask for hand torguing)...went driving that night on the twisties with heavy braking...stopped to let some folks catch up and then took off again...when I went to take off...I heard a clink...

The pads had fused to the rotor and when I took off again it broke part of the pad off on the rotor. When I inspected the rotor I noticed that it was warped...which caused the pads to drag and heat up more than usual.

Long story short...rotors warp, pads fuse and always request hand torquing to spec.

 

those rotors suck a mule's *** regardless.

had 'em, warped 'em, took those hunks of **** off.

put stock, resurfaced rotors on and that "fluttering" feeling went away.