Ugh... Yesterday was a long install day. I tackled the famous aftermarket insulator gasket for the intake manifold (like Hondata's but I have a supplier would makes it out of better, thicker material for H22s and H23s). Anyhow. I started at 8am that morning and finished at just before 5pm (I took my time and had some lunch). The bottleneck was removing the old gasket and removing a couple of bolts on the lower IM. I had some help from some friends which sped up some time (thanks Rich, Jason and Chris aka Suede54). Anyhow here are the facts...

You need...

14 mm socket
12 mm socket
10 mm socket
8 mm socket
12 mm open and closed wrench (forget about gear wrenches. The lip is way too big to fit anywhere)
10 mm closed wrench (same thing, no gear wrenches)
Multiple length extentions for sockets
Flex extension
needle nose pliers
Regular pliers
Torque wrench
wire cutters
Flat head screwdriver
Intake manifold gaskets x 2 (17121-PT2-004)
Throttle body gasket (16176-P30-004)
1 galon or more of coolant.
1 galon or more of oil (optional)
Gloves (it will save your hands)
Jack stands x 2
Jack
Gasket remover (1 bottle should do)
Razor blade (preferably with a handle)
Percison knife
Throttle body/Carborator cleaner spray (if your TB and IM was filthy like mine)
Magnet (when you drop bolts... which you will)
Small multiple angle mirror
A buddy is a plus (mechanically inclined helps)


Without going into huge detail here are the steps...

- Remove intake

- Remove TPS and Map sensor from Throttle body.
- Remove 2 coolant lines under the TB and the EVAP line on top (COOLANT WILL SPILL!)
- Remove ALL hoses and wires connecting to the IM and ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL (COOLANT WILL SPILL!).

- Remove throttle cable (12 mm bolt)

- Remove upper intake manifold chamber (which means all 5 x 12mm bolts).


- Remove hose connected to the diaphragm (round thing)
- Remove secondary butterfly valve.


- Remove the fuel line (fasten by 3 x 10 mm bolts) - FUEL WILL SPILL!

- Remove fuel pressure regulator (2 x 10 mm bolts)

- Remove EGR valve (2 x 8mm bolts)

 

- Remove the ignition coil (2 x 10 mm bolts on top + 1 x 12 mm bolt on side)
- Remove the 5 x 12 mm bolts on the top of the lower intake manifold.
- From the top of the car, you will be able to remove the 3 x 12 mm bolts on BOTTOM of the IM. You should be able to access the far left side (driver's side) and the 2 bolts on the far right (passenger side).
- Raise car and place securely on jack stands (high enough to allow you to work underneath).
- If you want more wrench room, I would recommend removing the oil filter (for you base Ludes) and unclipping the black wire harness.

- Remove the 2 x 12mm bolts on the bottom of the IM (these are pretty hard to reach).
- Remove the 12mm bolt securing the IM on the black bracket.

- Lower car back down.
- Unclip all hoses and wires connecting to the lower IM.
- Remove the lower IM.


- Fill in the 4 intake ports with newspaper so that no gasket or gasket remove is able to get in.

- Now is a good time to clean out the EGR, intake ports, upper IM chamber and TB. Scrap off any gasket on the lower IM as well. If you gaskets or no good on the upper IM and butterflys, then scrap off the old gasket with gasket remover and a blade. Replace with new gaskets. Same goes for the TB.

 

- Spray the IM gasket with gasket remover heavily.
- Let sit for 5-10 mins.
- Using razor blade and precision knife, process to remove ALL the IM gasket.
- Repeat these steps TILL ALL THE OLD GASKET IS GONE (this could takes many times)
(Tip: use a mirror to check hard to see spots like under the studs. Use a rag to clean up all excess gasket remover)



- Once head is clean, install new gasket and excute all the steps above in reverse order.


NOTE: The 12mm bolt that secures the lower IM bracket might not line up properly since the new IM gasket is substantially thicker. You have to get the bolt in from an angle (I'm sure I cross threaded mine but it's locked in).

Have fun. PM or email me if you have questions.

Rest of the install day pics are here...

http://www.chillybanana.com/Pr..._sept

 

Wow! Awesome writeup man!

 

so how does she feel man? The IM gasket plus all that cleaning I should hope you feel a difference. Let us know.

 

where can I get one? and how much?

Mark

 

Did you happen to check the stud hole locations across the gasket, refrencing it against the intake port ID locations? When I installed mine I noticed someone must not have been paying attention and apparenlty setup the part in the mill incorrectly. When mated correctly and centered on the stud locations, the intake port holes in the gasket sloped from end to end. The intake port on cylinder #4 was centered correctly, but as you moved from one cylinder to the next, there was a noticable decrease in port height, causing an evergrowing lip to form on the top of the port(head) which would present a substantial restriction to flow.
After some modification I got it to fit correctly with no lip apparent. I did this by simply reaming out the stud locations in the gasket.

Just thought i'd let you know since I was VERY pissed when I noticed the missmatch.

 

The lip on cylinder #1 was approx .1" on the port roof.

 

to anyone trying this... may want to remove your knock sensor before you start .. its very very VERY easy to damage!

-Mike

 

It feels good so far (on the butt dyno) but the real test will be when I hit the dyno.

If you want me, contact me at keith@chillybanana.com... I can get some more (for H22, H23, b18).

 

You don't have to pull the top of the IM off to get it out of the engine bay. At least not on 4Gs anyways. Just an FYI if people aren't worried about cleaning out the IM.

 

very good straight forward write up.

 

Nice writeup.. 3 questions though..

How much.
Where can I get it.
And does it block off EGR.?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason kiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And does it block off EGR.?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can see the for the EGR on the right hand side of the gasket in the 2nd to last pic.

 

Good write-up, but damn... your engine is messy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laughinxxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to pull the top of the IM off to get it out of the engine bay. At least not on 4Gs anyways. Just an FYI if people aren't worried about cleaning out the IM. </TD></TR></TABLE>

True! No need to pull the top off the IM. And you went through all that trouble just to get it clean, then you didn't even clean the outside. At least what i can see.
I polished the outside of my IM.
Other than that, I have to say that its a great writeup!! NICE pictures. Good info.

 

How much.

60$ shipped

Where can I get it.

Email me -&gt; keith@chillybanana.com

And does it block off EGR.?

Mine doesn't but but I could request to have it made without the hole.

 

Yeah, I know but my IM wash FLITHY inside from a botched job of plugging my EVAP line with Hondabond without giving it enough time to dry. As well, my EGR line was disgusting with layers of oil crust. I swear it looked like grounded coffee.

 

Nice write up and great pics I have a hondata gasket sitting on my floor at home.... procrastination

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plugging my EVAP line with Hondabond </TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting way to go about removing the EVAP system... how did you vent the tank?

 

yo guys, my friends have those coming out pretty soon. theyll be at nopi. nextgear. be careful of any patent infrengment.

 

u can get a h23 intake mani gasket? if so pm me

 

Sure can. I should have an extra one in stock.. email me -&gt; keith@chillybanana.com

As far as the EVAP line, my P + P S2K TB doesn't have one. Mark (aka DirtyLude) installed a EVAP line for me but the hose is too thick to install with my AEM CAI. So for the interm, I just plugged it and left the EVAP line hanging. Probably not the best for environment but hey... No CELs either (I have the OBD2 workaround).

Keith

 

Depending on how the dyno plots look, I'd be interested in one for my h23.