Real McCoy ITR shift knob???
How do you tell whether a shift **** is a genuine one or a knock off?
Part number on the **** or anything??
Yes I've searched but only pretty photos no help
Part number on the **** or anything??
Yes I've searched but only pretty photos no help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weight/shape/finish are the only ways to tell that I know of.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And at that point, if all those criteria are well-met, does it really matter if it's "authentic?
And at that point, if all those criteria are well-met, does it really matter if it's "authentic?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AussieB20vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a guy offering me a genuine one. I don't wanna pay genuine price for a knockoff</TD></TR></TABLE>
I understand. I just meant that, if it is completely indistinguishable from an ITR **** with regard to weight, finish, design, etc., it should be worth what an ITR **** is worth anyway.
EDIT: To help answer your original question, it should be quite heavy, and the red "etching" at the top should appear to be high-quality. It also has what I would classify as halfway between a satin and a flat finish.
I understand. I just meant that, if it is completely indistinguishable from an ITR **** with regard to weight, finish, design, etc., it should be worth what an ITR **** is worth anyway.
EDIT: To help answer your original question, it should be quite heavy, and the red "etching" at the top should appear to be high-quality. It also has what I would classify as halfway between a satin and a flat finish.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AussieB20vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a guy offering me a genuine one. I don't wanna pay genuine price for a knockoff</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you can't put your hands on it first... I would pass.
if you can't put your hands on it first... I would pass.
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I know there is bugger all difference but the same could be said for spoon/rota wheels. I know the weight difference is substantial but you could easily buy the rota's if you didn't know better
Just make sure it's heavy. It should not be as heavy as a Skunk 2, but it should feel nice and sturdy. I think the only other way to tell would be to have a real **** in your hand while inspecting the other one. If it has the exact same finish, then it should be real.
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