Short Throw Clutch Pedal?
With all the short shifters on the market, would it be feasible for someone to come out with a short throw clutch pedal? The point of the short throw shifter is to decrease time it takes to change gears, but I find most of my time is eaten up with the distance the clutch pedal travels!
All it would take is a larger diameter master cylinder or smaller diameter slave cylinder or moving the point where the pushrod mounts to the clutch pedal. All of these things will increase the pedal effort at the same percentage they reduce travel.
can anyone tell me how to adjust my clutch pedal. when i push it all the way down, it goes a bit too far and makes a sreeching sound. ive looked in the helms, but could quite figure it out. i might just put a block of wood on the floor.
I have the same problem. When I step on it till the end it makes a screaching sound, but only when the car is cold in the mornings. How can we fix this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaysonx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you need to do this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because I find that I lose more time with the travel of the clutch pedal than with the travel of the shifter. I guess I'll upgrade my booster and MC to GS-R or better and see how the results are. Thanks!
Because I find that I lose more time with the travel of the clutch pedal than with the travel of the shifter. I guess I'll upgrade my booster and MC to GS-R or better and see how the results are. Thanks!
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You can adjust the clutch pedal itself with two 12mm open ended wrenches, one of them needs to be VERY thin.
On the back of the clutch pedal, there is a pushrod that runs into the firewall. On that pushrod where it connects to the pedal itself are two 12mm nuts. One of them is part of the pushrod, the other is holding the pushrod in place.
Hold the one that is part of the pushrod, and loosen the other. From that point you should be able to twist the pushrod itself and it will move the clutch pedal closer and further from the firewall. When you are done, tighten the nut and you are done.
You probably could just clamp the pushrod itself with vice grips, but it will leave grooves.
On the back of the clutch pedal, there is a pushrod that runs into the firewall. On that pushrod where it connects to the pedal itself are two 12mm nuts. One of them is part of the pushrod, the other is holding the pushrod in place.
Hold the one that is part of the pushrod, and loosen the other. From that point you should be able to twist the pushrod itself and it will move the clutch pedal closer and further from the firewall. When you are done, tighten the nut and you are done.
You probably could just clamp the pushrod itself with vice grips, but it will leave grooves.
thanks...and i don't know what i was thinking when i said booster and mc...i guess i was thinking breaks...it was early, i hadn't had my coffee yet.
I've never tried this but i'm sure it would work... On Duc's car we run a Tilton twin disk clutch with the Tilton hydro throw out bearing and master cylinder... The cylinder moves a greater volume of fluid over one throw which in your case with the stock slave cylinder would reduce the length of your "pedal throw"... I don't know that you would want to even bother doing this as you need to make a custom plate when mounting to an OE firewall but it would all be possible I'm sure... The other option doesn't really shorten the thow... It just brings the engagement point farther out... If you do that, just make sure you don't pre-load the clutch too much... Just my $0.02, and sorry I went on for so long... hehe... Peace
i always adjust the clutch so that it is as high on the pedal as possible. then you do not need to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to engage it, lessening the amount of travel your foot makes, and consequently the time taken to engage/release the clutch.
Do not over adjust the rod, it needs to be adjusted properly and not too tight.
Omni I believe made a short throw clutch master, but I know there were issues. For a shorter throw you need a larger bore to move the same amount of volume and this greatly increases pedal effort.
Omni I believe made a short throw clutch master, but I know there were issues. For a shorter throw you need a larger bore to move the same amount of volume and this greatly increases pedal effort.
Im using a omni power master cylinder with the b&m spherical short throw shifter, mfactory shifter bushings. this is my favorite combo to date. my pedal has 2/3-3/4 less travel, pedal feels firm, stiff, and very responsive. im using a russel clutch line, fidanza flywheel, clutch masters 6puck unsprung clutch. when i shift at the track, people think i have a automatic, thats how easy and fast you can shift with this combo. i will post a vid later today of the pedal travel. btw my setup is a oem internal b20vtec with a b16 tranny.
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