2000 SH, 60,000 miles, intake, exhaust.

went to the hobby shop today to do the valve adjustment. used the following instructions http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php was told by many on here that the clearances are the exact same.

only differances are that i went 1,2,4,3 (cylinders)
used .006 on the intake and .008 on the exhaust. slight drag on the feeler gauge.
now my car sounds like a pissed off diesel engine and if you named the power output i would have to put my vote towards stuttering stanley.

turned the crank counter clockwise and used a flat head and a 10mm open end wrench for the set screw and nut.


thought of problems are this -
1- valves too loose
2- possibly one of the cylinders werent at exact TDC durring the adjustment
3- the clearences are not the same and i just made a big *** mistake.

after it was all said and done i had 45 minutes until the hobby shop closed so i had to leave. i drove the car 4.5 miles home and it will not move until wednesday when i get back from my little out to sea period.

thanks guys for any help provided!

 

If youi turned the crank counterclockwise (the correct way to turn it when doing a valve adjustment) then you effed up man, cause you adjusted the valves in a backwards order. You should have adjusted them 1, 3, 4, 2. If you were turning your motor clockwise starting from cylinder 1, THEN your order would be correct. Go back and do it again. Also, you're supposed to do the adjustment when the motor is cool, it makes a difference. One more thing, I'd try adjusting to the minimal tolerance, that way it will take longer to get out of spec., and if it's too loose, it's still in spec.

 

not arguing, just asking... why would it make a differance on the order? as long as the cylinder is at TDC that should be all that matters correct??

 

Well let me ask you this.. did you have the cams turn 90 degrees each time you went to a new cylinder? ie. You started at cyl 1, turned the motor c.clockwise so the cams are turned 90 deg, and adjusted cyl 3? OR, did you start at 1, and turn the cams (not crank) 180 deg. and adjusted cyl 3?

 

cylinder1 - arrows up

cylinder2 - arrows at 270

cylinder3- arrows at 90

cylinder4- arrows at 180


and i waited 2 hours at the shop to let it cool down. the engine was cold when i did it.

 

so you turned the cams 180deg just to adjust the next cylinder (cyl 3)? Why not just go in order? But yeah that's right.

 

well i was going to do them 1,2,3,4 but then i didnt see the last set of dashes right away so i was like **** it ill do #4 next. turned the crank too much, saw the dashes, brought it back around and did #4. then did #3.

right now i am leaning towards it being too loose. so i am going to redo it on wednesday. another $10 and 3 hours down the drain.

 

If its H22 go .006 intake and .007 exhaust. On a cool motor you need slight drag. Being at TDC means nothing. The point of them telling you to do that is so the lobes on the cam are away from the rocker. I just spin the crank until I get a cylinders lobes straight out and away from the rocker, which will be about a 1/3 turn past TDC. The important things are that you make sure the engine is cool, cam lobes away from rocker, and that you double check your measurement after tightening, especially if youre doing it the ghetto way without the correct tool.

EDIT: You can do an intake and an exhaust at the same time. I mean that when one cylinders intake lobes are away from the rocker one exhaust cylinder will have its lobes away from the rockers at the same time. This makes it so you only have to rotate the crank 4 times total, instead of 4 for each side.

 

Just pay a mechanic $80 and have them do it!!!!

If you don't know the procedure, don't do it.

Even if you know the procedure and its your first time, have an experienced person look over what you're doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its H22 go .006 intake and .007 exhaust. On a cool motor you need slight drag. Being at TDC means nothing. The point of them telling you to do that is so the lobes on the cam are away from the rocker. I just spin the crank until I get a cylinders lobes straight out and away from the rocker, which will be about a 1/3 turn past TDC. The important things are that you make sure the engine is cool, cam lobes away from rocker, and that you double check your measurement after tightening, especially if youre doing it the ghetto way without the correct tool.

EDIT: You can do an intake and an exhaust at the same time. I mean that when one cylinders intake lobes are away from the rocker one exhaust cylinder will have its lobes away from the rockers at the same time. This makes it so you only have to rotate the crank 4 times total, instead of 4 for each side.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i only turned it once per cylinder...... i dont think any of the lobes were pushing. i have to redo it wednesday so i will make sure to do that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScareyH22A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just pay a mechanic $80 and have them do it!!!!

If you don't know the procedure, don't do it.

Even if you know the procedure and its your first time, have an experienced person look over what you're doing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy jeez people, it's not brain surgery. Just follow some good instructions and you're good to go....

And come on, that's the biggest freakin waste of $80; who CAN'T spare an hour or two of their day to learn/work on their car???

 

What i do:
Leave the car overnight, so the engine is completely cold and make sure to do the pistons in the order 1-3-4-2 as I remember. The Intake i went around .006 on intake and about .007 on the exhaust side (quieter without burning your valves). Also, when I pull out the feeler guage, i make sure it has pretty good drag on it so only that measurement will go through. I.E. if you are adjusting for .006, make sure there is good drag when pulling out the feeler and stick your .007 feeler gauge in there and it shouldn't go through. Just go ahead and do it again taking your time and double-checking your work. I also tighten to about 14 lb./tq so that the nuts don't come loose under constant heat expansion and contraction of the motor (don't overtighten!) and check that your feeler gauge measurements again after tightening the valve nut. Sounds like one or more of your valve settings are too loose causing the car to give off resonance from specs being a bit off. If you still don't get it and if the car still chatters too much, just take it to the mechanic and get it to spec.

 

First thing I would check is that you put the plug wires back on in the correct order. I don't know if you pulled them off the distributor or not but if you had them in the wrong order if it starts then it would act basically the way you are describing. Or make sure that they are all on tightly.

 

UPDATE!!!!

im a friggin moron! i missed a very cruital step. i did not toque the lock nuts to 14 lb ft.

so i redid the valve adjustment. took four hours to do it. had to adjust, re adjust, and do it all over again. but damnit my car is running bad ***!

write up with pics comming very soon.

thanks for all the help guys.