lately, my car's AC has been putting out semi-cool air, but not cold enough. I was wondering if this just comes with my civic getting older or is there a way to SAFE and proper way to fix this, for a cheap fee? thank you

 

I am not sure if you have r12 or r134, but you can get it recharged at some A/C shop. You might have a leak, because it usually doesn't need to be recharged unless you have a leak somewhere.

 

if you need r12 you need to call and check if the place thats going to fix it has any. places that are out of r12 wont be getting more and will try to change you over to r134. my 92 Prelude was low and i had to call 3 places to find r12.

 

I think after about 10 years of useage A/C is nearly due for a change (atleast the R12 stuff). But take it to a shop and have them do a diagnostic "special" on it. For about $60 they'll do an inspection and recharge.

 

60 for a recharge on r12, you crazy man
I went to get a r12 recharge - guy wanted over 2 hundo for it

 

Sorry, I didn't intend to imply $60 for the R12. It should be about $60 for the 134a stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stanleycivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lately, my car's AC has been putting out semi-cool air, but not cold enough. I was wondering if this just comes with my civic getting older or is there a way to SAFE and proper way to fix this, for a cheap fee? thank you</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its common for most people to think that the problem is due to low refrigerant, but it could be many other things. The compressor could be dying, the THV could be plugged, could have leak, etc. Its not all that difficult to convert an R12 system over to 134a. You will need to get the adapters for the service fittings, drain/change the compressor oil, change the filter/dryer and then evacuate the system. The Sanden compressor that comes on the EG's will handle the 134a without any problem after you change the oil. For the cost of R12, I would convert it to 134a.

There is more then enough R12 still available. Shops that say they have run out and "can't get anymore" are just blowing smoke up your ***. They most likely don't want to pay the price for the refrigerant. Last week I was told that the "going price" in industry for a 50lb tank of R12 was around $950.

 

The cheapest solution would be to pull out your whole AC system. It's totally free and it makes your car faster, instead of slower with the AC on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicCLMT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cheapest solution would be to pull out your whole AC system. It's totally free and it makes your car faster, instead of slower with the AC on.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

sry that some ppl cant live in an expensive cool state like you.
youre in tx then u understand A/C is a must...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its common for most people to think that the problem is due to low refrigerant, but it could be many other things. The compressor could be dying, the THV could be plugged, could have leak, etc. Its not all that difficult to convert an R12 system over to 134a. You will need to get the adapters for the service fittings, drain/change the compressor oil, change the filter/dryer and then evacuate the system. The Sanden compressor that comes on the EG's will handle the 134a without any problem after you change the oil. For the cost of R12, I would convert it to 134a.

There is more then enough R12 still available. Shops that say they have run out and "can't get anymore" are just blowing smoke up your ***. They most likely don't want to pay the price for the refrigerant. Last week I was told that the "going price" in industry for a 50lb tank of R12 was around $950.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just about everything he said is right but 1 i wouldnt convert to 134a when there is a awesome replacement for R12 now out ..... it is called FReeze 12 and it is about the same price as r134 and is COLDER then r12 i am epa certified and i can buy r12 when i need it but i never do because all my customers are happy with freeze 12 .... now with the price of R12 climbing nobody will be buying it soon the above post stated it was $950 for a 50 LB container well your wrong it is a 30 pound container for $950 .... the cheapest place to buy R12 is mexico but you gotta be epa certified to bring it across the border

if your local bring the car over and i will diagonis it for you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just about everything he said is right but 1 i wouldnt convert to 134a when there is a awesome replacement for R12 now out ..... it is called FReeze 12 and it is about the same price as r134 and is COLDER then r12 i am epa certified and i can buy r12 when i need it but i never do because all my customers are happy with freeze 12 .... now with the price of R12 climbing nobody will be buying it soon the above post stated it was $950 for a 50 LB container well your wrong it is a 30 pound container for $950 .... the cheapest place to buy R12 is mexico but you gotta be epa certified to bring it across the border

if your local bring the car over and i will diagonis it for you </TD></TR></TABLE>

I couldn't remember if the price was for a 30 or 50lb container. I was pretty sure he said 50, but I could be wrong. The point still being its pretty pricey. Most of that blend crap will do nothing more then hose your compressor. If I am not mistaken, freeze 12 is nothing more then a blend. I can't seem to find any info on what its composed of. Got any info on it? As for the EPA certification, its not that hard to get.

Edit: Just found some information on it and it looks like it is a blend. It also produces higher head pressure then R12. If you know anything about an AC system, and it sounds like you do, then you know this is not a good thing and can lead to more problems then its worth.

 

Got any more info on best way to recharge the older system? Seems like both sides of the argument here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got any more info on best way to recharge the older system? Seems like both sides of the argument here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on what you are looking for. If you want cheap, then no doubt the Freeze 12 will work. Weather it will last or not is another question. You can't have the best of both worlds. Personally, like I said. I would convert to 134a and run that. I won't tell you it will work as good as R12, it won't. But it will be VERY close to the same performance if you convert the system correctly.

 

With the Freeze 12 check the compatiblity with the compressor and system. And the Price is NOT the same as R134A I can get a 30lb container for $100 and for Freeze 12 it would be double at $200

Now yes the R12 was ON SALE for $950 for 50lbs according to our parts guy. He said they Might of made a mistake but oh well their loss his gain.

Now Getting a Cert to buy R12 is a joke.. it is a simple test that ANYONE can take and simply pass by studying a few hours or less.

If I was you I would just go and do a check FIRST to verify what is wrong.. leaking system, Stuck TXV, ect ect.. thats should be a cheap inspection at some repair shop then go from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the Freeze 12 check the compatiblity with the compressor and system. And the Price is NOT the same as R134A I can get a 30lb container for $100 and for Freeze 12 it would be double at $200

Now yes the R12 was ON SALE for $950 for 50lbs according to our parts guy. He said they Might of made a mistake but oh well their loss his gain.

Now Getting a Cert to buy R12 is a joke.. it is a simple test that ANYONE can take and simply pass by studying a few hours or less.

If I was you I would just go and do a check FIRST to verify what is wrong.. leaking system, Stuck TXV, ect ect.. thats should be a cheap inspection at some repair shop then go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could a stuck caps lock key cause his problem also?