took the car out yesterday. got about 2 miles from my house and when my car just shut off. heres what happened I was slowing down to a stop sign I push the clutch in and it drops to idle then the car dies. ok so I ride down the road a little ways and a 55 mph I push in the clutch, same thing car dies also the further I drove the more the car seamed to be missing. I'm wondering if its my distributer, I think its about had it so I have odered one from tunertoys.com. if anyone hase any ideas. my set up is 90 crx hf with b18c1.

 

anyone?

 

hell yea man..im getting the same problem. Like when i push my car, and when im like slowing down or stepping on the clutch, the idle drops to 0 rpm and the car shuts off...

 

bump, cause i'm in the same boat

 

t

 

holy crap, i noticed this happening to me in the morning when my car isnt warmed up all the way...could it be an ecu issue? i have no clue!

 

Bad distributor. I replaced mine yesterday and now its running good.

 

is it the whole dist or jus the ignition coil?

 

yup I'm having same issues and sick of it!! argg car is a 90 hatch w/ b16...my car idles/drives fine as long as im not reving it up, but if i take it to redline and let off the gas and put it in neutral motor shuts off...I'd also like to know what can be causing this?

 

it might be an ecu issue because i have a brand new distrubitor and my car is still dying sometime. Strange how so many people have this problem and yet no solution.

 

fedex sucks!!! they delivered my distributor to the wrong address. any ideas on what I should do?

 

If you adjusted your valves too tight, this is also known to happen. Ryan

 

you might be right. i do know for a fact that my valve are a little tight. i will readjust the valve and see what happen. crossing my freaking fingers for this to work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift2live &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it might be an ecu issue because i have a brand new distrubitor and my car is still dying sometime. Strange how so many people have this problem and yet no solution. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Check the plug to the starter. The other night when I replaced my whole Distributor I noticed the plug from the starter was loose. I removed that rubber cover and pluged it back in and now the car starts up and runs good. Check that and see what happens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by verseone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it the whole dist or jus the ignition coil? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Verseone- This is what the Auto Parts shop told me, that its rare for the ignition coil to go bad, usually its the ignitor to go bad. In my case its true because I wasted money buying just the ignition coil and it wasnt that. Long story short just buy a new whole distributor, its cheaper than buying part for part. Good luck.

 

well I put the new distributor on and got a check engine light (code 9). put the bad one back on and the code went away? what is a code 9 I think I need to sent the dist back and get a new one.

 

code 9 is No. 1 cyl. sensor. Are you haveing any problems with the O2 sensor? if it's bad it could cause the problem with the car shutting off.

 

how about a code 3 The ecu also through that last night, but again there were no check engine lights the other day when I first started having problems with the car. I think code 3 is MAF. would that cause the car to stall and shut off when I pushed the clutch in?

 

It only happens to me in the morning when i start my car and drive a lil w/o warming it up all the way...my car will idle low and die...then i start it up and drive it for a while and its fine..

 

update. well I finally got a new distributor that worked and I messed with my throttle settings and the car has not dieded anymore. Not to change the subject but when the car goes into vtec it doesn't hit hard for another 1000 rpms. It doesn't pull like it should. I have stock hf exhaust and stock header could that be the problem? going to change that out this weekend (if Hurricane Isabel doesnt come my way)with jdm dc sport and 2 1/2 exhaust. also could it be my vtec selnoid? vtec is at 6200 rpms I have crower stage 3 cams

thanks

 

Mine does the same thing too...if I rev to around 6500-7000 RPM,it wants to die when I push the clutch in and stop after that.As long as I don't drive it hard,it doesn't do it.Also throws a code 1 and 16 when this happens.Did not happen before the MPFI swap.

 

it used to happen to mine too. a few minutes later my car died while driving and would not start back up even from a roll start. changed the dist and everything was good.

 

No, check to make sure you wiring is good or maybe it's gone bad. I just finished my swap (B16) and I just reverse the wires. If your stock it's the or timing. check belt ware.

 

Mine kicks in at like 5900 in my B16. now that my swap is finished I have zero issues. It runs like a batt out of hell. The exhaust should help out a lot. So would an intake.

 

could the screen in my VTEC solenoid be clogged or dirty? is that a symtom of vtec not engaging all the way until another 1000 rpms after it first engages? I have tried vtec engaging at 6000, 6200, 6500 rpms, I get the same result.