Rebuiding D16Z6, ALL MOTOR where to start??
Greeting all!!
I have an 95 Civic Ex D16z6 with 78k miles on it, and was thinking about-rebuilding, make it a little stronger and then maybe later on, something forced.
Anyhow..
Where should I start.
I will have about $1500-$2000 to start with, and then a little bit each month.
My goal is to have it run between 160-190hp stable..im not into the F&F thing, my civic is basicly stock right now except for CAI and its lowered a bit w/stock wheels and a front upper strut bar.. no stickers no bodykit. The only thing I want to do for the body is possibly a front lip, light rims/wheels and a CF hood to lighten up even further. Other than that, some minor suspension work.
But.... First and foremost.. I want to get this engine in good strong shape.
So where do I go from here.. my ears are wide open..
I probably should post this in the ALL MOTOR section.
Thank you.
-david
btw.. I want to be honest, I am a novice at cars. I used to do computer technical support and now I work in a Restaurant as a cook. Im not stupid, and I am not scared to bust into this thing and do the work myself. However, I just need some sort of direction and I need to buy the Helms manual.
I have an 95 Civic Ex D16z6 with 78k miles on it, and was thinking about-rebuilding, make it a little stronger and then maybe later on, something forced.
Anyhow..
Where should I start.
I will have about $1500-$2000 to start with, and then a little bit each month.
My goal is to have it run between 160-190hp stable..im not into the F&F thing, my civic is basicly stock right now except for CAI and its lowered a bit w/stock wheels and a front upper strut bar.. no stickers no bodykit. The only thing I want to do for the body is possibly a front lip, light rims/wheels and a CF hood to lighten up even further. Other than that, some minor suspension work.
But.... First and foremost.. I want to get this engine in good strong shape.
So where do I go from here.. my ears are wide open..
I probably should post this in the ALL MOTOR section.
Thank you.
-david
btw.. I want to be honest, I am a novice at cars. I used to do computer technical support and now I work in a Restaurant as a cook. Im not stupid, and I am not scared to bust into this thing and do the work myself. However, I just need some sort of direction and I need to buy the Helms manual.
Honestly, 15-2000$ Isn't enough to build a motor with aftermarket parts. Save another grand atleast. A lot of guys here will tell you also, that when you build a motor, there are tons of "forgotton costs", I attribute this to smoking dope, but whatever. Starts by piecing it all together.... pistons and rods... rings.. arp bolts.. gasket kits... new pumps... all that ****. If you are gonna rip into it, do it right. Make it worth the built, or just be like everyone else and "pay for a B series swap". ****, if you can swing it, build a B series! You get so much satisfaction out of building your own setup as opposed to coming to someone like me and paying for a swap, Ya know...
Good Luck/
Good Luck/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get rid of that motor an get a b series
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to the above comment.
Have you ever seen the look of a DOHC drivers face when a SOHC smokes him? I have many times.....and it's truely priceless!
For just a N/A build, Crower rods, JE/SRP pistons/rings, Skunk2 or Crower head (valves, valve springs, valve spring retainers, cam shaft, cam gear), Skunk2 intake manifold, INJEN Cold air intake, DC Sport 4-1 ceramic header. And what ever you have done to the block (bore) and head (p&p).
If you go F/I, I'd only change the brand of pistons to Ross. And upgrade your ignition for best results (MSD SCI, 8.5 wires, modified cap, blaster 3 coil, ZEX plugs).
Expect to pay $3000+ for a great N/A or up to 12 psi holder.
Expect to pay $4000+ for a killer F/I for well over 12 psi.
Just a few ideas to start with IMO......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
to the above comment.Have you ever seen the look of a DOHC drivers face when a SOHC smokes him? I have many times.....and it's truely priceless!
For just a N/A build, Crower rods, JE/SRP pistons/rings, Skunk2 or Crower head (valves, valve springs, valve spring retainers, cam shaft, cam gear), Skunk2 intake manifold, INJEN Cold air intake, DC Sport 4-1 ceramic header. And what ever you have done to the block (bore) and head (p&p).
If you go F/I, I'd only change the brand of pistons to Ross. And upgrade your ignition for best results (MSD SCI, 8.5 wires, modified cap, blaster 3 coil, ZEX plugs).
Expect to pay $3000+ for a great N/A or up to 12 psi holder.
Expect to pay $4000+ for a killer F/I for well over 12 psi.
Just a few ideas to start with IMO......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get rid of that motor an get a b series
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats ignorant
</TD></TR></TABLE>thats ignorant
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEVENSIX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So where do I go from here.. my ears are wide open..
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Read this and then come back with questions
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=335078
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Read this and then come back with questions
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=335078
http://www.ALTHonda.com or if that one isnt directing traffic
http://pub161.ezboard.com/bbseriesalternative
http://pub161.ezboard.com/bbseriesalternative
How much are you willing to rebuild? Do you want to sleeve it? Rebuild the entire bottom end?
If I were you, I'd pick up a spare Z6 block and do what you like. No time constraints and you'll have a back up incase something goes wrong with the one you do build.
You could also just drop in some A1 pistons to up the compression to about 12.5:1 if you want something cheap.
Modified by clm at 3:40 AM 9/7/2003
If I were you, I'd pick up a spare Z6 block and do what you like. No time constraints and you'll have a back up incase something goes wrong with the one you do build.
You could also just drop in some A1 pistons to up the compression to about 12.5:1 if you want something cheap.
Modified by clm at 3:40 AM 9/7/2003
Thanks Hurrikain! I used to have that link a long time ago, I was hoping to find it.
Thanks.
CLM,
Getting another Z6 block sounds like a good idea.. especially for the machine work that will need to be done, so I can keep using my car..
I was thinking about raising the compression as you were saying, but I still do not know enough about this. If one was raising the compression to 12.5:1, then I am assuming that would reqire new rods as well?
I cannot thank you enough for the help, since I finally will have some money I want to make sure everything is done correctly. What would be the benefits of raising the compression to this amount be? also I am assuming that it would require a specific size gasket.
-Thanks again!!!
-David
Thanks.
CLM,
Getting another Z6 block sounds like a good idea.. especially for the machine work that will need to be done, so I can keep using my car..
I was thinking about raising the compression as you were saying, but I still do not know enough about this. If one was raising the compression to 12.5:1, then I am assuming that would reqire new rods as well?
I cannot thank you enough for the help, since I finally will have some money I want to make sure everything is done correctly. What would be the benefits of raising the compression to this amount be? also I am assuming that it would require a specific size gasket.
-Thanks again!!!
-David
I'm in the process of doing a rebuild too. Picking up my extra Z6 longblock on Tuesday. Sound like we're heading down the same path. Shoot me an IM if you want to discuss my plans.
Rule of thumb on compression gains is 3-4 whp per 1.0 increase in compression. Those gains are across the entire powerband. Remember though that it is the entire system that dictates the gains.
Rule of thumb on compression gains is 3-4 whp per 1.0 increase in compression. Those gains are across the entire powerband. Remember though that it is the entire system that dictates the gains.
I think I recall reading guys shotpeening their stock rods or using LS rods. There was a thread somewhere (which I have yet to find locate) about the Z6/Y8 build up with A1 pistons. The user "builthatch" has done this build up. Try PM'ing him about the construction of this engine.
Modified by clm at 3:40 AM 9/7/2003
Modified by clm at 3:40 AM 9/7/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I recall reading guys shotpeening their stock rods or using LS rods. There was a thread somewhere (which I have yet to find locate) about the Z6/Y8 build up with A6 pistons. The user "builthatch" has done this build up. Try PM'ing him about the construction of this engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
builthatch runs p29/a1 pistons. not a6. a6 = dished, p29=domed.
builthatch runs p29/a1 pistons. not a6. a6 = dished, p29=domed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats ignorant
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acutally you are the ignorant. i have a single cam in my other honda
thats ignorant
</TD></TR></TABLE>acutally you are the ignorant. i have a single cam in my other honda
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get rid of that motor an get a b series
</TD></TR></TABLE>
honestly...I know I am usually harcore d-series, but if you have $1500 to spend i'd say get a B-series. Yeah you can build a killer single cam, but at what cost for labor and all that **** that you have to do to it. You could get a B16A SiR-II for a bit more, and have OEM honda reliability and a greater tuning potential. Why would you wanna pay several thousand dollars for a motor that will MAYBE get you 160-170 WHP NA?Only reason i'm doing d-series (and why most people do d-series) is because i'm on a budget
If you do decide to stay with the d-series, I think pretty much everything to say about it has been said already.
</TD></TR></TABLE>honestly...I know I am usually harcore d-series, but if you have $1500 to spend i'd say get a B-series. Yeah you can build a killer single cam, but at what cost for labor and all that **** that you have to do to it. You could get a B16A SiR-II for a bit more, and have OEM honda reliability and a greater tuning potential. Why would you wanna pay several thousand dollars for a motor that will MAYBE get you 160-170 WHP NA?Only reason i'm doing d-series (and why most people do d-series) is because i'm on a budget
If you do decide to stay with the d-series, I think pretty much everything to say about it has been said already.
BauleyCivic,
I see your point.
Well, if someone was willing to swap in a B series motor on my car for $2k, I'd be up for it..It just seems like it would be more expensive when all things are added up.
Actually, I am on a budget, however I was able to get some extra money after re-financing my car... which is why I have the $2k coming this Friday!!
I was wondering,
What power is created when you re-build a D series head.. including.. Port/Polish/entire Valve train/3 angle Valve job and a Cam?
Just wondering, cause it looks like this will be the first thing on my list.
thanks for all of the support and comments.. it really helps!!!
-David
I see your point.
Well, if someone was willing to swap in a B series motor on my car for $2k, I'd be up for it..It just seems like it would be more expensive when all things are added up.
Actually, I am on a budget, however I was able to get some extra money after re-financing my car... which is why I have the $2k coming this Friday!!

I was wondering,
What power is created when you re-build a D series head.. including.. Port/Polish/entire Valve train/3 angle Valve job and a Cam?
Just wondering, cause it looks like this will be the first thing on my list.
thanks for all of the support and comments.. it really helps!!!
-David
http://www.d-series.org/forum
Go there and check it out. We just went thru a change of servers so the content is minimal, but it will take off again very soon....
As for my build - here is what Im doing.....
d16z6 head with a port & polish, milled .020, Crower springs and skunk2 Ti retainers, Zex or Crower cam, y8 block with eagle rods and oversized JE 10.5:1 pistons, ARP rod bolts and studs, GSR throttle body, Clutchmasters clutch and 12lb flywheel, and reworked tranny with SRR 4.7 FD.
This will be a continuous project for a while....I have most of the motor stuff laying around, I just need to get it all down to the machinist to have it balanced and assembled.
Good luck with your project, whatever you decide to do. Dont let the bandwagon B's slow you down!!
Go there and check it out. We just went thru a change of servers so the content is minimal, but it will take off again very soon....
As for my build - here is what Im doing.....
d16z6 head with a port & polish, milled .020, Crower springs and skunk2 Ti retainers, Zex or Crower cam, y8 block with eagle rods and oversized JE 10.5:1 pistons, ARP rod bolts and studs, GSR throttle body, Clutchmasters clutch and 12lb flywheel, and reworked tranny with SRR 4.7 FD.
This will be a continuous project for a while....I have most of the motor stuff laying around, I just need to get it all down to the machinist to have it balanced and assembled.
Good luck with your project, whatever you decide to do. Dont let the bandwagon B's slow you down!!
if u go with a smaller block ull raise ur compression i believe.. (correct me if im wrong. i have a d15b7 block ill sell u if ur interested
I was running low 13s on street tires with a turbo stock motor d16z6. I could have easly hit some 12s with slicks.
Oh yea...the z6 motor was free, my friend *gave* it to me in pieces. He had it in a box in his garage for like a year. It had a bad piston. I pulled a piston outa my old z6 which had a spun rod bearing and slapped on a new ring and popped it in the block. 25,000 miles of 12-14psi of boost love until it gave up on me. Not bad since the guy i got it from said it had like 180,000 miles. The cyl walls were really really nasty too. Took me 5000 miles to break in that new ring before i had good compression in all the cyls.
Talk about cheap performance. d-series owns.
liam
Oh yea...the z6 motor was free, my friend *gave* it to me in pieces. He had it in a box in his garage for like a year. It had a bad piston. I pulled a piston outa my old z6 which had a spun rod bearing and slapped on a new ring and popped it in the block. 25,000 miles of 12-14psi of boost love until it gave up on me. Not bad since the guy i got it from said it had like 180,000 miles. The cyl walls were really really nasty too. Took me 5000 miles to break in that new ring before i had good compression in all the cyls.
Talk about cheap performance. d-series owns.
liam
I am also in the process of building my z6. I have an extra bare z6 block laying around if anybody needs it too. What i really want to know is if the domed p29's are really compatible with a z6 block. I think it was Mr.Bone who said that they wouldnt clear the valves in a z6 block. Correct me if I'm wrong guys.
Rydaddy,
Thanks for the links, it really helps me figure out what the hell im getting myself into!!!
And I will check out the d series forum!
WhiteRiceEG, Im not sure about that either... but I will keep that in mind, because if I do decide to do that, I will PM you about your block, thanks!
Liam821, man everytime I decide to go all motor, someone gives me a reason to go with FI!!! LOL!! I would love to go Turbo, but I dont think my engine is not ready for it yet.. and to be on the safe side I would rather build it up all motor right now, so the strength will be there when I add a Turbo to it... plus I will know a LOT more by the time that come around. Believe me, I want to hear that BOV going off in my engine bay.. gives me a hard on thinking about it.
Im all about using what I have, but I may end up buying a used block or head.. who knows. I know I want to stick with the D series.
Still my initial goal without increasing compression is going to be near 160hp.. then with increasing compression I want to push it to 180hp..
Anyone have any recomendations for shops that do head work??
Thanks for the help! Rebuilding will start next week!!! very excited!
-David
Thanks for the links, it really helps me figure out what the hell im getting myself into!!!
And I will check out the d series forum!WhiteRiceEG, Im not sure about that either... but I will keep that in mind, because if I do decide to do that, I will PM you about your block, thanks!
Liam821, man everytime I decide to go all motor, someone gives me a reason to go with FI!!! LOL!! I would love to go Turbo, but I dont think my engine is not ready for it yet.. and to be on the safe side I would rather build it up all motor right now, so the strength will be there when I add a Turbo to it... plus I will know a LOT more by the time that come around. Believe me, I want to hear that BOV going off in my engine bay.. gives me a hard on thinking about it.
Im all about using what I have, but I may end up buying a used block or head.. who knows. I know I want to stick with the D series.
Still my initial goal without increasing compression is going to be near 160hp.. then with increasing compression I want to push it to 180hp..
Anyone have any recomendations for shops that do head work??
Thanks for the help! Rebuilding will start next week!!! very excited!
-David





