Just swaped B16A into CRX HF and engine has knockings...?
Me and a budy has just finished swaping a B16A into his HF CRX. It starts and sounds like a strong motor, but there is a constant loud knocking from inside of the engine. It is near the timing belt.
Is the motor bad?
Any help would be appreciated fast...geting headaches.
Is the motor bad?
Any help would be appreciated fast...geting headaches.
if you can hear the noise with the hood closed or from inside the car then something sounds very wrong to me. i would guess you have a bad rod bearing.
Is it a knocking or a loud ticking?
If it is coming from the head it could possibly be the LMA (lost motion assembly)
These have a tendancy of going bad when running bigger cams or if the motor has sat for a long period of time.
If it is coming from the head it could possibly be the LMA (lost motion assembly)
These have a tendancy of going bad when running bigger cams or if the motor has sat for a long period of time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MisterB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it a knocking or a loud ticking?
If it is coming from the head it could possibly be the LMA (lost motion assembly)
These have a tendancy of going bad when running bigger cams or if the motor has sat for a long period of time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you will ALWAYS hear clicking from a gen 1 b16, sounds just like a typewriter. it's usually the LMA's, but not really due to running bigger cams, rather, its simply the case that these motors are 14-15 years old by now.
If it is coming from the head it could possibly be the LMA (lost motion assembly)
These have a tendancy of going bad when running bigger cams or if the motor has sat for a long period of time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you will ALWAYS hear clicking from a gen 1 b16, sounds just like a typewriter. it's usually the LMA's, but not really due to running bigger cams, rather, its simply the case that these motors are 14-15 years old by now.
No guys, It sounds as if someone was hitting the head near the timing belt with a hammer from the inside. I know what the valve ticks sound like and that's not it. The knocking is loud and it's only at idle speed. No reving at all (too scared to reve).
Anyone know what can we do?
Anyone know what can we do?
I hope you've got 93 or 91 octane in there. Sounds like you've got a terrible knock. Is the check engine light coming on after warmup? If so it's prolly throwing a code 23... knock sensor. Tell us where you got the swap from.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RexB16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you will ALWAYS hear clicking from a gen 1 b16, sounds just like a typewriter. it's usually the LMA's, but not really due to running bigger cams, rather, its simply the case that these motors are 14-15 years old by now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true... i have a 1st gen with itr lma and correctly adjusted valves and i hear absolutly no ticking. It did not start ticking until after i put in the cams. so i replaced the lma and no more noise.
you will ALWAYS hear clicking from a gen 1 b16, sounds just like a typewriter. it's usually the LMA's, but not really due to running bigger cams, rather, its simply the case that these motors are 14-15 years old by now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true... i have a 1st gen with itr lma and correctly adjusted valves and i hear absolutly no ticking. It did not start ticking until after i put in the cams. so i replaced the lma and no more noise.
rod bearing, i bought a b18a from a guy, put it in, started it up, loud tapping sound acutally not a tap a loud banging sound, u could hear it over my open header, so took the bottom end apart, #1 and 3 rod bearings were gone, 3main bearings gone, crank no good, 2 rods bent.
i recommend taking yoru oil pan off and inspecting every rod by tring to shake it up and down and front to back and see if it moves, it there alot of play, u know its a rod bearing. but dont start it up again before u do serious damage if there already isnt serious damage
i recommend taking yoru oil pan off and inspecting every rod by tring to shake it up and down and front to back and see if it moves, it there alot of play, u know its a rod bearing. but dont start it up again before u do serious damage if there already isnt serious damage
We got the motor from http://www.hmotorsonline.com
I was the person that installed it. We took it off the crate and everything. Wiring complete, and double checked. Only wire left that is not wired was the data link wire. That doesn't matter any way. It was an OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion.
Oh well, I guess he'll have to tear down the engine and check. Thanks for advising. Wish us luck on getting it fixed.
I was the person that installed it. We took it off the crate and everything. Wiring complete, and double checked. Only wire left that is not wired was the data link wire. That doesn't matter any way. It was an OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion.
Oh well, I guess he'll have to tear down the engine and check. Thanks for advising. Wish us luck on getting it fixed.
Hold on a sec... if it's HMO they're REALLY good about **** like that. Call em up, ask them some questions... they're great guys!
I'm sure that if you have a MAJOR prob like that they'll fix it. I got a bad knock sensor on my swap, and they just shipped me a new one right away. Awesome guys. Call them ASAP! You won't regret it!
I'm sure that if you have a MAJOR prob like that they'll fix it. I got a bad knock sensor on my swap, and they just shipped me a new one right away. Awesome guys. Call them ASAP! You won't regret it!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hold on a sec... if it's HMO they're REALLY good about **** like that. Call em up, ask them some questions... they're great guys!
I'm sure that if you have a MAJOR prob like that they'll fix it. I got a bad knock sensor on my swap, and they just shipped me a new one right away. Awesome guys. Call them ASAP! You won't regret it!</TD></TR></TABLE>
good point call them before tearing it apart so that you dont void the warranty (in case they have a rule like that).
I'm sure that if you have a MAJOR prob like that they'll fix it. I got a bad knock sensor on my swap, and they just shipped me a new one right away. Awesome guys. Call them ASAP! You won't regret it!</TD></TR></TABLE>good point call them before tearing it apart so that you dont void the warranty (in case they have a rule like that).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nearly all high mileage motors KNOCK!!!!
even accords 90-92</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true at all; something has to be bad internally to cause a knock.....Ive seen many a b16 swap and they all sounded smooth as butter after a proper valve adjustment.
even accords 90-92</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true at all; something has to be bad internally to cause a knock.....Ive seen many a b16 swap and they all sounded smooth as butter after a proper valve adjustment.
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