I have a '94 GS-R. Real strong car. Next year, I'll probably be getting something newer. But, I was thinking about keeping the GS-R and seriously modding. I'm gonna give ya'll a rough list (probably gonna leave out a few things), and tell me what you think.
Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 Stage II cams (MAYBE CTR/ITR Cams)
Upgraded valvetrain (valves, lifters, retainers)
ITR or CTR Pistons
ITR AEM CAI or Icebox
JDM ITR 4-1 header
2.5" carsound cat
2.5" custom-bent piping (if I can find it)
Hondata flash OR Apex-i V-AFC (both?)
possibly upgraded injectors
Possible USDM ITR tranny

-AND-
ZEX 50-75hp wet-shot system

Sound good? This is just rough planning ahead. What kind of dyno numbers could I be making with this setup? And if anyone has a ballpark price range, that'd be great. Thanks.

 

not really serious mods there.

not as much power as im sure you want.

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how are they not serious? And I was just informed that there is no Hondata flash for my car, so I guess the V-AFC would be it.

 

dont get a VAFC w/ those mods, get a hondata s200 and go dyno tune it, with those mods you will need ignition tuning, which the VAFC cannot do.
BTW - all new hondata systems have nitrous control so the VAFC isnt really good for you, hondata beats it all around, u just need to have a tuner

 

Someone in my other thread in the "Integra" forum said Hondata didn't do flashes for my ECU. Is the S200 a whole new ECU, or a chip?

 

Well you are running a p72 ecu right? If so then Hondata will work with it

 

If an OBD-1 GSR ECU is P72 (can't remember if its P72 or P28, so I just don't try), then yes, it will work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRGuy17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If an OBD-1 GSR ECU is P72 (can't remember if its P72 or P28, so I just don't try), then yes, it will work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it will with no problems. Just get the ECU chipped and install the Hondata

 

Any guesses on times with/without the N20? I live in TX, and we seem to run quite fast down here (times in my sig really were just with a new muffler, at 152K miles). I was guessing high 13s N/A with DRs, and low 13s with a 75shot? Too ambitious?

 

ttt... want some opinions

 

I would go turbo over all motor. Easier to make power.

 

And twice as expensive... since I have such high-mileage, alot of stuff that I'm talking about doing N/A would have to be done with turbo (to a certain extent), except that then I'd have to add the cost of the turbo setup, FMIC, etc. I'm sorta kinda trying to keep this simple. And, I don't know how much financial (or otherwise) input my parents are gonna have with this, since they did buy the car. I think it'd be alot easier to convince them to do N/A as a "refresher" for the car, and then add the N20 later on my own.

 

if your parents are rebuilding the car for you, i say just tell them to completely pay it off instead and put it in your name, its better to have a car which is yours then you driving a car around that is your parents. Unless your parents are mechanics or racers

 

it was payed for cash when we bought it. Got it over a year and a half ago for $6K (helluva deal). It will, however, be put in my name soon.

 

I was just remembering something about volumetric efficiency and velocity... since I'm gonna be raising the redline to somewhere around 8300-8500 (?), would a short ram intake be better to take advantage of all the upper-rpm power that's gonna be going on? Or will the increased diameter of the ITR CAI/Icebox be good enough?

 

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