well i thought everything was hooked up right so i went to turn the key and nothing happened. its a new battery so its not that. the fuel pump turns on when i turn the key to accessory. when i hooked up the oil pressure switch to pin B5 in the ECU i had to take out a pin that says it went to the alternator. do i need to put that pin somewhere else? or should it just be left out? my ECU just blinks once and goes off. the check engine light stays on along with the 4-ways just stay on (without blinking) until i try to start the car then everything just shuts off

when i hooked up the 2 extra injectors i tapped into the harness with the big plug at the drivers side at the top of the shock tower. was that the right one? i cut the red and yellow wires and connected them to the red and yellow wires from the injectors. did i do that right?

ANY help would be great. thanks

 

What Car... Model type?

What swap?

Did you get a sub-harness?

Does the starter click?

Check your main harness connector under the Amber thingy on the passenger side... that gets loose.

 

need more info on this to help u out buddy....keep us posted...

 

sorry. its a Civic DX with a B16A1 swap. no subharnesses. i used the stock harness and some plugs off the B16 harness

no the starter doesnt even click

 

anyone?

i guess i'll just screw it and buy the hasport wiring kit

 

check yoru grounds, did u put all the grounds back. if yoru missing one the car or the starter wont work depending on which one

oh yeah on when u tap into the driver side shock tower connector, you made it run to the resistor box rigth ? not the injectors ?

 

i ran the one wire (yellow/black) from the shock tower plug to the resistor box (yellow/black). then all the red wires from the injectors to the resistor box. then there were 2 wires that i tapped into the red and yellow wires on the plug and ran them to the red and yellow injector wires. then the other 2 i ran to the ECU

i have the 2 grounds on the valve cover then i have 2 wires running from the battery to the frame right under the battery tray and the other one to the little tab on the tranny

it kinda sounds like it wants to turn over. the starter clicks once then everything shuts off

 

i read that u need a whole new wireing harness for the dx and std model because they had different IMs. so u need more then just the sub harness. just what i read not sure tho.

 

yes i know that. you must convert it to MPFI first which in turns pretty much makes it just like an SI. then you need to add the 4 wires (5 with the ground) for the o2 sensor, VTEC, oil pressure switch, and knock sensor. i dont have any subharnesses. just a stock DX harness with a bunch of added wires

tomorrow i'm gonna make clean up the area where i grounded it to on the chassis and see if that does the job. if not then i guess i'm gonna rip everything out and send it to hasport and let them do it

 

did u make sure you battery was charged, also make sure everything is connected on the starter, dont just say it is, go and make sure it is. triple check everything. do u know if yoru starter is good ?

 

Just find an Si Harness... get the HAsport sub. It's really easy that way. Trust me. It's gotta be something little... it usually is. Good luck again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just find an Si Harness... get the HAsport sub. It's really easy that way. Trust me. It's gotta be something little... it usually is. Good luck again. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you are retarded. An Si engine harness will not plug into the shock tower plugs (intermediate harness) on a DX. don't spread misinformation on a subject that you don't have personal experience with.

the original poster has done things the right way, DX harness converted to MPFI, then wires added for VTEC, Knock, etc... It's just time to troubleshoot, that's all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just find an Si Harness... get the HAsport sub. It's really easy that way. Trust me. It's gotta be something little... it usually is. Good luck again. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah your retarted. Why on an mpfi swap do you have to run 2 wires all the way to the ecu. You think the si engine harness just gonna work. Yum's right it won't even plug in and if it did the injector wiring would be all wrong and half the wires would not even be there. Go do some studying or something. it better to say nothing at all than pipe up saying trust me and give the wrong information.

 

uhh on an mpfi swap u gotta run 4 wires to the ecu not 2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhh on an mpfi swap u gotta run 4 wires to the ecu not 2</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL wow thanks dude. I was not trying to be technical I was just giving an example to why it wouldn't work. if you want to be technical on a MPFI swap you need to switch 6 wires at the ecu and run 4 wires to the engine bay. You need si ecu, intake manifold with injectors and fuel rail. Injector wiring with injector box and si distrib (the other 2 wires are for the tdc sensor in the distrib) Make sure it has a good working tps because the dx one is a mirror image of the mpfi one (as in backwards) You will also need a couple other hoses for coolant. On his swap he will have alot of it on his motor, but he will need to run 3 more wires into the ecu, knock, vtec and vtec oil pressure. The black wire on the oil press sensor gets grounded. It is also a very very good idea to label the 3 sensors on the dx intake manifold that have the same plug, because on any mpfi motor you will have 3 plugs and 2 sensor that all fit the same and if you mix them up your car will not run right.
here is the original mpfi swap wiring from the old hybrid board. The only diffrence in this guide is instead of the 2 wires for the distrib going to the exhaust sensor on the zc they go the the 2 extra ones on the distrib itself. http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t...g.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DohcVtecCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LOL wow thanks dude. I was not trying to be technical I was just giving an example to why it wouldn't work. if you want to be technical on a MPFI swap you need to switch 6 wires at the ecu and run 4 wires to the engine bay. You need si ecu, intake manifold with injectors and fuel rail. Injector wiring with injector box and si distrib (the other 2 wires are for the tdc sensor in the distrib) Make sure it has a good working tps because the dx one is a mirror image of the mpfi one (as in backwards) You will also need a couple other hoses for coolant. On his swap he will have alot of it on his motor, but he will need to run 3 more wires into the ecu, knock, vtec and vtec oil pressure. The black wire on the oil press sensor gets grounded. It is also a very very good idea to label the 3 sensors on the dx intake manifold that have the same plug, because on any mpfi motor you will have 3 plugs and 2 sensor that all fit the same and if you mix them up your car will not run right.
here is the original mpfi swap wiring from the old hybrid board. The only diffrence in this guide is instead of the 2 wires for the distrib going to the exhaust sensor on the zc they go the the 2 extra ones on the distrib itself. http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t...g.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ok well i cleaned off where the ground was really good and it still does the same thing. when i get in the car it does the little beeping thing when the key is in the ignition (only when the key is in the ignition) but when i try to start it up it just clicks and it makes the beeping thing really faint

why am i getting no power?

and just to make sure. the 4 wires that are run to the ECU for the MPFI are 2 for the distributor and 2 for the injectors. is that right?

 

yeah the wires are for that. If your starter is not turning over it has nothing to do with those wires. Either the new battery needs charged or there is wiring problem going to the starter or last but not least the motor is seized.

 

the motor turned over fine by hand

would it be the starter if all the power just goes out after i try to start it?