Does anybody have any experience, or know of any reviews that I can find on the Competition Engineering traction bars for our cars? I know they're touted to eliminate wheel hop, but how well are they at lowering 60' times? It's part #C9300 on their website catalog.

 

In my opinion the ITR doesnt need these.
In testing, pulling on the shock fork only tried to pull the bushing out of the
LCA. The LCA wouldnt budge at all. ITR bushings are probably real stiff.
This is supported if you watch videos of my racing. When doing burnouts
and launching you dont see the wheels move like you will other cars.

 

on my gsr....i use the z10 traction system. just be careful if you purchase something like this. at first my radius rod was too taught and i was actually breaking axles with it. my fault though for not checking it after knowing how it was suppose to be adjusted. After getting it straight my 60' times even with an open diff have gone down to 1.72....1.7's consistantly now but i'm using a wide *** slick.

sorry....again...this is for a gsr

steve....your front end doesn't lift what so ever. what contributes to this. transfer of weight from front to rear will always lift front on fwd cars.

 

GSRs LCA will be able to move much more than ITR I think.

btw, are you pulling or pushing with radius rods?

 

jack up car(both front)....set radius rod to where the bar is still hand taught(still able to turn by hand) at the pulling end of the spectrum...as in pulling lower fork not pushing.

 

So would you guys recommend staying away from this traction device for the street? I understand (as Lip pointed out) that there's a degree of adjustability in that you can set the amount of pre-load on the LCA. What I had in mind was just installing the CE traction bars but leaving them in a "neutral" state, having neither pull nor push on the LCA.

 

http://www.z10eng.com/z10_products.htm

the CE bar binds when attempting full steering lock. This is why they say disconnect radius arms when street driving.

read a bit on that link. You pretty much can use the z10 for full camber adjustments

 

You know what works pretty well to eliminate wheel hop is a set of motor mount inserts. They're cheap and won't sacrifice handling for launching either.

 

maybe others should read this...
http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/z10.html

 

Wouldnt that be caster and not camber?

 

thanks for the simple correction.

 

sgT,

Do you use any special sort of traction aids (other than slicks & VHT) on your Integra? I'd like to be able to get my 60' times down to the 2.0x range without going to a drag radial or slick. Thanks!

 

i get 2.0s with 15" slicks and 1.7s with 13" slicks.

on street tires i cant better 2.2

 

Hey jeff --

find the neutral point, and then basically pull it forwards 3 turns. Keep track of the turns by watching where the flats on the radius rods go. If you leave it neutral you dont get the caster gain that will allow you to launch a bit harder.

 

The design of the CE kit does not allow one to just leave the arms in a "neutral" position.

The CE arms do not allow the suspension to move at all. They actually lock the suspension up and if you try to make a turn with the arms on, you will find yourself in a very uncomfortable situation. The reason our bars are at an angle is that they allow the suspension to follow it's natural arc, resulting in no binding of the suspension, and retaining it's full motion. You can pull the arms forwards as much as you want (to an extent) and it will not affect the motion of the suspension assembly.

for 60 foot #s follow this link...
http://forums.clubsi.com/ubb/Forum37/HTML/000385.html

this was a crx btw


[Modified by z10 geoff, 1:50 AM 8/24/2001]