I need to replace a stud on my right-front hub. How do I remove my rotor? Do I need a hub remover or what? And do the studs just fit right in? Any special tips would be great. Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to replace a stud on my right-front hub. How do I remove my rotor? Do I need a hub remover or what? And do the studs just fit right in? Any special tips would be great. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

i replaced the same one. you need a slide hammer to remove the rotor, then you punch out the stud, then put the new one on.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does a slide hammer do? Rentable?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to replace a stud on my right-front hub. How do I remove my rotor? Do I need a hub remover or what? And do the studs just fit right in? Any special tips would be great. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let's start out by letting us know what year and model you are working on ... some you do need to get the hub out some to replace a stud ... but some you do not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does a slide hammer do? Rentable?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the slide hammer is to remove the rotor. im not sure if it is rentable... but we had one on hand when we did mine (94 Accord Lx).

 

I don't think your going to need a slide hammer which by the way is rentable. Unbolt the four flange bolts from the rear side of the knuckle, that holds the bearing to the knuckle, and remove the hub/rotor/bearing. Then unbolt the rotor from the hub and you might have enough room to press the old stud out and the new one in. Not exactly sure if this would work but something worth looking into.

 

It's for a 95 EX.

Looking at my manual, I see 4 flange bolts holding the rotor/bearing/hub onto the knuckle. Also, there are 4 bolts on the front of the hub along with the spindle nut/cotter pin.

My assumption is to:

1. Remove Caliper
2. Remove 4 bolts on front of hub along with the spindle nut
3. Remove 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the rotor.

After this, the rotor should come free? Also, is it necessary to remove the hub from the bearing in order to access the studs? If so, a special tool is needed for this. Thanks guys

 

well, considering that 5th gens (you) are pretty similar to 4th gens (me), this may work also....(front passenger side).

-Take off wheel/tire
-Take off brake caliper
-Take off brake caliper bracket
-Rotate the hub until the broken stud is facing the front of the car (you should be able to see the back of the stud behind the whole rotor/hub assembly)
-Hit whatever is remaining of the stud square on until it pops out the back
-Put new stud in place and take a bunch of washers and screw on your lug nut until its properly seated (or do it ghetto like me, put on your wheel, and tighten your lug nut until it seats)
-Reassemble everything

 

Interesting that the stud is visible through the back, i'll have to try that out. I'll post how everything goes in a few days, thanks.

 

well, when I say visible, I mean "barely visible" haha, I actually had a hard time seeing it, first I put my hand in there and felt the little "nub" end of the stud, then I took a flashlight, and barely saw it under all the crud/rust/crap, but good luck to ya~ (and hopefully it'll be as easy as it was on my 4th gen)

p.s. I also sprayed some liquidwrench/pbblaster on the stud, it may help loosening it a bit

 

I just replaced a stud on a 1990 Accord and did have to remove the caliper assy. I then had to rotate the rotor so the stud faced forward and was able to punch it out and install the new one.

I am sure the 94 is the same setup as the 90-97 Accord take the same rotors.

I think SAMACCORD is correct in the way he describes you to do this.

 

its hard to see the stud if you do not remove the hub/bearing off cuz the CV boots block access... It may be possible, but I go w/ removing the entire bearing/hub off the knuckle, punching it out w/ a hammer, and a new one in.

I'm thinking the slide hammer pulls the hub+rotor off the bearing while the bearing is still on the knuckle? do you use the slide hammer to get the hub back onto the bearing as well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... It may be possible, but I go w/ removing the entire bearing/hub off the knuckle


</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is NOT necessary. You can access the stud just by removing the caliper. I just did one last weekend. Just do like you were told and put the broken stud in the 3 o'clock position on right front and 9 o'clock position on left front (facing forward) and you can bang it out and put the new one in with no problem.

 

im having the same problem. i took the brakes/4 front screws/and the 32mm axle nut off. thats how i got access to the hub. the problem i found out is that i cant get my arp studs in cause theere too long. but what i did notice was that stock studs were sanded down.(the end tip that hides behind the rotor) im guessin it was easier for it to get in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm thinking the slide hammer pulls the hub+rotor off the bearing while the bearing is still on the knuckle? do you use the slide hammer to get the hub back onto the bearing as well?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

no you do not need the slide hammer to put it back on. i have a 94 accord lx and had to replace the stud on my front (right) pass. side. at first it was difficult because we could not get the rotor off, which was extremely difficult. we finally called my friends dad (which is a mechanic) and he came over and handed us the slide hammer to take it off.

 

Well I finally got around to it today. It went as smooth as anything taking a whopping 10 minutes.

I just removed the caliper, and the stud was right there behind the rotor. Popped that sucker out and put a new one in.

Thanks to all that helped out, it saved a lot of time by not taking off the hub/rotor

 

i might get flamed but

just for future reference if anyone ever needs to take their rotors off lets say to replace the rotors harborfreight sells the slide hammer for 7-15 bucks somewhere there its not brand name but its worth the purchase it comes in a small little case its no snap-on but it sure is worth the purchase they also have springs compressors there for like 12 bucks i bought one and my friend bought the slide hammer heres the site to harborfrieght

http://harborfreight.com/

its real close to where i live so i really recommend this place

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GrandMarkie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just removed the caliper, and the stud was right there behind the rotor. Popped that sucker out and put a new one in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't that what I said in my post?